Best Way To Remove Wax

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RABVET

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Hi,

I need to remove (2) coats of Blackice Mountain Wax ---- what is the best way other than clay bar or dawn washing?

Will Menzerna polish do the job? ---- I have 1500, 2000, 3000 and 4500 on hand ---- I prefer to use the 4500 if possible?

I also have Klasse AIO if that would be better?

Also: how will I know if I have successfully removed all the wax?

Thank you,
Ralph
 
If your just removing wax I use Dawn or APC in my foam cannon.
 
if u need to polish - paint correction, that will remove the wax . if u don't need to polish u can use a non abrasive paint cleaner . no matter if I'm polishing or not I always use a strong paint cleansing wash to start .
 
I'd just polish it to remove it.
Wouldn't take much to get it off.

Do you have some m205 on hand?
 
HateSwirls said:
I'd just polish it to remove it.
Wouldn't take much to get it off.

Do you have some m205 on hand?
Click to expand...

I just have the 4 Menzerna's that I listed:
Super Intensive
Intensive
3000 Finish & 4500 Super Finish

As I mentioned; I'm was hoping that the 4500 will remove the 2 coats of wax?

Thank you
 
You don't need to polish to get wax off save your self from wasting time.
 
spiralout462 said:
This is a very interesting thread...........http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...96-lsp-stripping.html?highlight=lsp+stripping


I you don't mind me asking, why do you wish to remove the Black Ice?
Click to expand...

Not at all; it was because after comprehensive Menzerna polishing I used Black Light as my pre-wax/glaze on several sections of the car and yes it looked very nice; however I found Klasse SG to be heads above the Chemical Boys Black Light on my black paint, so now I need to go back and re-do the waxed panels accordingly.
There's no question that the Black Light is much easier to use than the SG and it does a nice job; but when I decided to test them side by side on one of the un-waxed panels under extreme light I saw a remarkable difference, thus I want to re-do the other panels which will necessitate removing the wax.
Although the Klasse SG is a major PITA to remove the results was outstanding. I also read that this SG can be layered after 12 hours minimum to gain even further shine and depth and that 3 coats seem to be a magic number ? ---- even with just 1 coat it looks outstanding to me and look forward to applying 2 additional coats.
Now the question is: should I cover the 3 coats with with a coat of Black Ice Mountain wax, or should I just go with the 3 coats of SG??? Note: the car is a garage queen that only frequents a auto shows.

Thank you!
 
If you are going to apply klasse , would use their aio for the prep any way.

A strong wash soap, then aio on a white or green pad, then apply the ksg. That should help with cleanliness, and make it last longer.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
I'm always surprised to hear that people use dishwasher soap since it has adverse effect on the rubber & vinyl bits. Next time try using your favorite car shampoo at 5x the recommended concentration-on Nick's recommendation I use CG Citrus Wash & Gloss just for this purpose and it works well. Than spray the entire car down with P21s Total Auto Wash & gently rub and let dwell for 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Not only will you strip away the old wax but you will also decontaminate the paint at the same time.
 
RABVET said:
Now the question is: should I cover the 3 coats with with a coat of Black Ice Mountain wax, or should I just go with the 3 coats of SG??? Note: the car is a garage queen that only frequents a auto shows.

Thank you!
Click to expand...

If you like that reflective hard candy shine..stay with SG. However, if you want a deep wet glow, something like Pinnacle Souveran will make you proud.
 
addysdaddy said:
I'm always surprised to hear that people use dishwasher soap since it has adverse effect on the rubber & vinyl bits. Next time try using your favorite car shampoo at 5x the recommended concentration-on Nick's recommendation I use CG Citrus Wash & Gloss just for this purpose and it works well. Than spray the entire car down with P21s Total Auto Wash & gently rub and let dwell for 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Not only will you strip away the old wax but you will also decontaminate the paint at the same time.
Click to expand...

No it doesn't have any affects and I should stated Its a mix of car shampoo and dawn or APC. It won't strip sealant but will strip wax. I've been doing for years never a problem with rubber or vinyl. For most people P21s is not cheap ether.
 
GG has a product called Paint Prep to remove old wax. Spray it on agitate or hand massage and rinse it off. I used it on a dark green Jag that had paint clarity problems per the customer, and it worked great.
 
Pureshine said:
If your just removing wax I use Dawn or APC in my foam cannon.
Click to expand...

GREAT recommendation. I actually always start on a client's vehicle where it's OBVIOUS there are no underlying layers of protection (and if there are, they are far beyond salvageable) with a Meg's APC or similar - really helps with bugs and tar as well, then I move into the wash for a double-cleanse effect.

The only issue I run into on some vehicles... is the APC may be somehow causing the glass to severely streak and leaves a film behind - but, that really doesn't make sens to me, because APCs shouldn't be having that type of effect? The haze is so severe, I'll have to clay the windows many times afterward, BUT, o other vehicles, there's NO haze. The only alternative theory I can come up with is one some vehicles there may be so much dirt and fallout debris hidden under the trim and weather stripping etc, the APC loosens it enough to fall down on the windows? It's the weirdest phnomenon...

Anyway, it's nice to hear someone bring Dawn back up - it's so hotly debated on the forums, but, in my opinion, unless you're using Dawn every single wash (and no one would do that), the very slight drying effect it has on the paint won't be an issue whatsoever, PLUS, experienced detailers only do a Dawn cleanse PRIOR to laying down multiple layers of wax or paint correction, so it will be nourished back to showroom health anyway. That's my theory at least.
 
Although people will swear that Dawn will remove LSP's, it doesn't remove most if them. Dawn leaves something behind that sheets water. People confuse the lack of beads with a LSP being gone. Fact is that if you rewash after a dawn wash, most times you will see beads again. I had a client wash his vehicle weekly with dawn and 4 months later it was still being protected by the LSP I applied. (Customer has since been educated of proper washing techniques)

Anyway if you want to completely remove a LSP I suggest a chemical polish or a mechanical polish. The 4500 you metntioned will work just fine!
 
CG's Citrus Wash + Dawn still didn't remove 4-5 week old Collinite 845.

I don't like polishing to remove protection.
 
Dynamic_Detailing said:
The only issue I run into on some vehicles... is the APC may be somehow causing the glass to severely streak and leaves a film behind - but, that really doesn't make sens to me, because APCs shouldn't be having that type of effect?
Click to expand...

See below - you posted on the thread which laid all of this out.

Dr Oldz said:
Although people will swear that Dawn will remove LSP's, it doesn't remove most if them. Dawn leaves something behind that sheets water. People confuse the lack of beads with a LSP being gone. Fact is that if you rewash after a dawn wash, most times you will see beads again. I had a client wash his vehicle weekly with dawn and 4 months later it was still being protected by the LSP I applied. (Customer has since been educated of proper washing techniques)
Click to expand...

As Dr Oldz has once more stated, Dawn (and for that matter, the vast majority of surfactant products - such as your APC) will leave a surfactant type residue. These residues can be hard to remove which is why so many of you detailing chaps think it strips LSP. You are just seeing this same thing on the glass (sometimes it can be much more visible).

Dynamic_Detailing said:
Anyway, it's nice to hear someone bring Dawn back up - it's so hotly debated on the forums, but, in my opinion, unless you're using Dawn every single wash (and no one would do that), the very slight drying effect it has on the paint won't be an issue whatsoever, PLUS, experienced detailers only do a Dawn cleanse PRIOR to laying down multiple layers of wax or paint correction, so it will be nourished back to showroom health anyway. That's my theory at least
Click to expand...

The 'drying effect' is another over blown myth (along side LSP stripping and fast metal corrosion), as far as I am concerned. Show me proof that Dawn does this but not an APC, or a prewash or even a shampoo. Yes, there is the chance that Dawn will remove some oils but once the paint is cured, there are no more oils coming out of it. On plastics, yes, there is a possibility but that possibility is the same with most shampoos because (shock horror) many of the ingredients that could cause this 'drying' (from Dawn) are in fact common in car wash shampoos. Move to an APC and it will almost invariably be a very much stronger degreaser (i.e. will remove more oils) than car shampoo or Dawn. APC will dry out plastic trims much more rapidly than Dawn ever will and (from that big thread you posted on) it will still not remove many LSPs. What you are correct about it that Dawn is basically harmless to the vehicle.

stiffdogg06 said:
CG's Citrus Wash + Dawn still didn't remove 4-5 week old Collinite 845.
Click to expand...

I know many of the detailers on here will that should have done the job but, as chemist and manufacturer, I have no reason (either theoretical or experimental) to make me agree.
 
Anyway if you want to completely remove a LSP I suggest a chemical polish or a mechanical polish. The 4500 you metntioned will work just fine![/QUOTE]

Thank you, I was hoping that would work whereas this would be the easiest solution for me on the previously waxed panels.

Getting back to the incredible results I'm seeing from only one layer of the Klasse SG, I did another (unwaxed) panel yesterday and again a fabulous shine; however the effort to remove this stuff is BRUTAL!! ----- I ran across a video somewhere on this forum that showed a guy removing it with a damping towel with a mix of water and some quick detailer, followed by a dry buffing with a MF towel. He used the same drying time as I did which is about 20-30 minutes and made it look easy !! ----------- Not sure why I'm having so much trouble getting this stuff off with just a dry MF towel --- wonder if it's because the SG I have on hand is about 3 years old and maybe I should order some fresh stuff?
The Blackfire is a joy to work with (flips on & flips off) but again, it's just is not as shinny on my black car as the SG.
I will try the damp towel method today to see if this helps?? ---- for some reason I'n not comfortable with the WOWO method and prefer some drying time?
I will let you know how this works ---- I should live so long to to the entire car with SG without a better process!!!!
 
Rsurfer said:
If you like that reflective hard candy shine..stay with SG. However, if you want a deep wet glow, something like Pinnacle Souveran will make you proud.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I'm not ruling that out at all based on how difficult it is to remove the Klasse SG.

Is the Pinnacle Souveran easier to remove and can it be be layered like the KSG?
 
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