Bit the bullet and did the Spar Urethane/Min Spirits thing...

You realize you just started the clock ticking on your patent application with public disclosure.

True, now he has a year to file in the US. But, it is already too late to file most foreign patents because of the public disclosure.
 
True, now he has a year to file in the US. But, it is already too late to file most foreign patents because of the public disclosure.

I don't think it's much of a concern, really, IMO there isn't much patentable in there, but you never know today. Buffer Barry put up a thread 6 months ago about scuffing headlights and painting them, not like this is an unknown technique.
 
Well I never tried the Charmin but have had great results with the blue Scott shop towels. Glad to hear it went well. I eventually will try the ppg coating but don't have the volume of customers yet to invest in a hvlp sprayer .

Give this one a try Gravity Feed Spray Gun - 20 Oz. HVLP

I bought it...used it to spray Acme urethane primer and then a couple coats of single stage paint onto my pops' kit around his chevy express...worked really well especially when considering the price...just clean it real well when you're through and it should work great. They also sell a kit, i thnk its that gun and a smaller 'detail' gun along with a case, cleaning brushes etc
 
Give this one a try Gravity Feed Spray Gun - 20 Oz. HVLP

I bought it...used it to spray Acme urethane primer and then a couple coats of single stage paint onto my pops' kit around his chevy express...worked really well especially when considering the price...just clean it real well when you're through and it should work great. They also sell a kit, i thnk its that gun and a smaller 'detail' gun along with a case, cleaning brushes etc

So that gun from HF worked good enough? I've seen it at HF before but was worried about the quailty. I'd like to get a hvlp decent gun for doing the spar urithane and maybe apply iron x with another gun any thought wills.......
 
So that gun from HF worked good enough? I've seen it at HF before but was worried about the quailty. I'd like to get a hvlp decent gun for doing the spar urithane and maybe apply iron x with another gun any thought wills.......

Well if you go to the site or do a search on it you'll find lots of good reviews. And from MY totally amateur experience i thought it worked well (this is my first HVLP job, others had just been rattle can touch up stuff).

I dont know if it would be worth it doing the spar since it is SO easy to just do the wipe on method with the scotts towels. Im not sure if the gun would leave any 'textured' type of surface that many look orange-peelish so to speak. Never used iron X but i would think it should have no problem spraying it just as long as you clean it well when you finish (i took mine all the way apart, once you do that the first time, the next tiem is much quicker).

If you were going to be doing a CLEAR coat on lights id absolutely recommend this. Only 'eh' thing about it was i noticed a SLIGHT drip from where the cup connects to the gun, and i mean slight. I believe it was somewhat user error though as i think i screwed the cup on too tight, and the washer that comes with the gun isn't the best...but thats what...like a 15c repair if you just get a new decent washer?

If you have a compressor and you do work in a shop (id think it would be too difficult to lug a compressor around strong enough to use a HVLP gun with?) then for $15, id say give it a shot if you want. Only other negative i can foresee is...when using the wipe on method with the spar, you're using what...1 or 2 oz TOPS? You may have to mix a little more to fill the cup enough to be able to spray it. This is a MAYBE, i dont know for sure, i never tried the gun with that little material in it, but the smaller detail gun might work with a small amount?

Those are just my thoughts, and again, for $15...i say a very good buy and so have many others. If you were doing this for a LIVING and painting CARS, not just lights, i'd say go for something of a higher grade....but i honestly liked the gun and think you would too.:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks for the hvlp info. Plan on picking up one to give it a try. Might find a nicer unit later on for a couple of projects I have planned this coming winter.
 
Thanks for the hvlp info. Plan on picking up one to give it a try. Might find a nicer unit later on for a couple of projects I have planned this coming winter.

No problem. What other projects do you have poppin this winter?

This was the 'kit' i was talking about, $35 more but you get an extra gun, cleaning brushes and a pretty cool looking case (im a nut for nice cases, i like organization lol) HVLP Spray Gun Kit

I'd say just get an air pressure regulator for AT the gun ( think they sell them separately there too) and you should have yourself a nice little set up.

If you think of it let me know how your experiences turn out with it:dblthumb2:
 
No problem. What other projects do you have poppin this winter?

This was the 'kit' i was talking about, $35 more but you get an extra gun, cleaning brushes and a pretty cool looking case (I'm a nut for nice cases, i like organization lol) HVLP Spray Gun Kit

I'd say just get an air pressure regulator for AT the gun ( think they sell them separately there too) and you should have yourself a nice little set up.

If you think of it let me know how your experiences turn out with it:dblthumb2:

I already have the pressure regulator thats left over from painting I've done with the old pot type guns in years gone by. Will look at the HF gun and also a couple of Sata guns a friend of mine wants to unload. Got a 86 cutlass with drastic clear coat failure on the roof,hood and trunk. I have removed most of the clear and will try and re-shoot it. I know it would have been easier to do a complete re-paint but its just something I wanted to try.Second is a S10 that I'm putting another bed on that needs to be painted.
I apologize to the original poster here. I didn't want to hi-jack your thread , sorry. :buffing:
 
Hi everyone! Happy new year and merry christmas!
Have started my own headlight restoration business and will tell you that the old tee shirt method of applying the mixed urethane works the best. However will try the charmin later on!
 
Hi everyone! Happy new year and merry christmas!
Have started my own headlight restoration business and will tell you that the old tee shirt method of applying the mixed urethane works the best. However will try the charmin later on!

Is the old T-Shirt Method better than the Rag of Blue Towels? For applying Urethane Mix.

And hey guys, i found a Grit Equivalent Chart for Scotch Brite products...

It seems that blue pad used on the FCD Method is equivalent to 1000 grit sandpaper.

Here is the Chart:


SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish
 
So has this FCD method changed the headlight restoration game? I just don't see how a scrub pad that's equivalent of 1000 grit sand paper could remove heavy oxidation and prepare for sealing. I know using my drill and 500 grit has a little trouble sometimes. I'm not bashing the FCD method whatsoever but just wanna know if it's working for people here even on badly oxidized lenses. I just did a 4 step restoration yesterday that took about 2 hours so I'm looking for something new to try. Thanks
 
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