Blackfire Crystal Seal - The 11 Minute Paint Sealant

I was told that a member from another forum, had this tool that actually measured the thickness of waxes and sealants applied to the paint.

So he and goes applies his first coat measures it and there is a reading lf the new layer. He then applies a second coat and measures it and there barely is any significant difference in the reading.

By the 3rd and 4th application he was actually removing the wax. So his readings were less and less of the wax on the car.
 
hernandez.art13 said:
I was told that a member from another forum, had this tool that actually measured the thickness of waxes and sealants applied to the paint.

So he and goes applies his first coat measures it and there is a reading lf the new layer. He then applies a second coat and measures it and there barely is any significant difference in the reading.

By the 3rd and 4th application he was actually removing the wax. So his readings were less and less of the wax on the car.
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I think that was some sort of electron microscope thingy doodle and it wasn't on a car it was on a silicon wafer or some similar doohickey. I think the end result of his experiment was that you could layer Zaino to 1" thick but everything else was just a silly little nanometer.

Yes, I am in a bit of a foul mood this morning.
 
I did a correction then followed with BFWDPP, picked up some CS to try over it since it was recommended. My question is, I washed the car and its in the garage, going to plan on doing it tomorrow morning. Is it good practice to QD the car before the CS application say with Griots speedshine or will that interfere with the bonding?
 
I just used BFCS today, but I did go against Nick's advice and threw some EZ Creme underneath it, with Klasse AIO as my starter. I got mixed reviews on if the BFCS will bond to the EZ Creme, so i look forward on giving you guys a follow up on that. But here is a before picture of my car that was a little dirty with about two week old Megs Liquid Gold Class Wax. A middle picture of the car with just Klasse AIO and an after picture of Klasse AIO, CG EZ Creme and 1 layer of BFCS. I later added a second layer of BFCS and on the fence if i'm going to add Collinite 845 in a couple days.. I'm a noob and do not have a DA polisher. So this was all done by hand. I'm asking the old lady for a polisher for Xmas. Can't wait.

before:
8fb4.jpg

After Claying and applying Klasse AIO:
aqny.jpg

After applying CG EZ Creme and 1 layer of BFCS:
d9lq.jpg

Side view:
66lp.jpg


The BFCS was so easy to apply, its going to be hard to not throw it on after every wash.
 
Fury887 said:
I did a correction then followed with BFWDPP, picked up some CS to try over it since it was recommended. My question is, I washed the car and its in the garage, going to plan on doing it tomorrow morning. Is it good practice to QD the car before the CS application say with Griots speedshine or will that interfere with the bonding?
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I'm also looking for an answer to this. If I decide to put some 845 on, can i just waterless wash with the Pinnacle Liquid Crystal, then add the Collinite 845?
 
Choop145 said:
I'm also looking for an answer to this. If I decide to put some 845 on, can i just waterless wash with the Pinnacle Liquid Crystal, then add the Collinite 845?
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Absolutely! Infact, doing a wash of any kind right before applying any product is always best.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Choop145 said:
I'm also looking for an answer to this. If I decide to put some 845 on, can i just waterless wash with the Pinnacle Liquid Crystal, then add the Collinite 845?
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I would also suggest decontaminating the paint after the waterless wash step and before the LSP. Either with a traditional clay bar or imo the much preferred nanoskin.
 
I recently used Crystal Seal with fantastic results. The application after claying and cleaning is incredibly slick and the appearance is wet, satiny smooth, and deep.

Quick question - if we hang our hand out the window while driving will our hand rubbing against the door abrade away the coating quickly or is it reasonably durable?



DSC_2705m by Lunitic, on Flickr
 
Welcome to the club Adam, bet that Merc looks awesome in the sun! BFCS is something I'll always have in my collection!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
I used some over the weekend. It didn't feel super slick on my paint, not like when I apply BFWD. I didn't clay or polish the paint before hand, which might have had something to do with it. I instead put it to use on my windows, which do feel super slick. Haven't had a chance to test it's ability at speed, but if it's good, then it's going to by my new go to for the windows. Much easier to apply than Rain-X, and I don't get that first time smear like I do when I wax them.
 
ziggo99 said:
I used some over the weekend. It didn't feel super slick on my paint, not like when I apply BFWD. I didn't clay or polish the paint before hand, which might have had something to do with it. I instead put it to use on my windows, which do feel super slick. Haven't had a chance to test it's ability at speed, but if it's good, then it's going to by my new go to for the windows. Much easier to apply than Rain-X, and I don't get that first time smear like I do when I wax them.
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OMG, RainX is like a bad dream isn't it?!?! :rolleyes:

I agree with the 'slick' comment. I've got both WG and BF WOWA sealants and it's hard to imagine but there is a difference between them. Neither though are as slick to the touch as a WOWO sealant, BF, Megs, or otherwise. They tend to have a sensual feel beneath your fingers, whereas the WOWA stuff has more 'pop' but seems a bit more 'sterile'.
 
I find it works great on windows, rain rolls off the windshield at anything over about 35MPH.
 
It didn't feel super slick to me either. I couldn't take it and put a coat of zymol over it. This is the first sealant I've ever bought. I wasn't all to impressed with the shine or feel of it. Zymol or insulator wax are deff better looking to my eyes. It sure was nice to apply though. I'm going to continue to use it under my waxes.
 
For those saying it doesn't feel slick, are you claying and prepping the paint before hand at all. Crystal seal is like one of the slickest feeling products out there IMO.
 
I am going to use this on my black CTS-V and had a question. After was wash using Chemical Guys citrus and then after claying the whole car everyone next uses a polish. I have the WG Duo 3.0 which includes the swirl remover and finishing glaze. So I wouldn't use these product but would need a polish before the BFCS for the final wipedown? Or is the finishing glaze a polish as well so I can use that with a DA then apply the BFCS?
 
My understanding is the prerequisite is a paint cleaner, preparing the paintwork to accept the CS coating. I'd be concerned a glaze would compromise the ability of CS to adhere and cause the coating to fail.
 
adanmtxt1 said:
My understanding is the prerequisite is a paint cleaner, preparing the paintwork to accept the CS coating. I'd be concerned a glaze would compromise the ability of CS to adhere and cause the coating to fail.
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It's not a coating though. It's a sealant. Different things.

In actuality he could use a paint cleaner with a glaze element with this sealant, like BF gloss enhancing polish. So he'll be fine using anything before hand so long as the paint is clean.
 
Try it on top of the BFWD. I think CS is better used as a finishing layer for BFWD rather than by itself. Super slick! Does have a glassy look. If you want depth, then top the CS with BF MS Paste Wax. WOW! Follow each wash with BF Polymer Spray and you'll retain the slickness for 2-3 months. I use these combos for my spring detail. I re-apply the CS after 3 months. 3 months after that I'm into my winter detail which I use Coll 845. I've wondered about topping 845 with CS...anyone have any thoughts on that?
 
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