Breaking the Collinite Myth: 915

Klasse Act said:
Do you heat up the container a bit Killa, just curious? I think your onto something about the why its a little harder to remove for you, me on the other hand, well, I layer a lot, which is probably why I have never had an issue applying/removing anything, LOL!

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Yeah the temps outside were perfect it was just a pain to apply. Removal wasn't as bad as I put it out to be but it's nothing like the easy removal of DG sealants which is what I tend to compare everything to lol.
 
pcw25 said:
There's a lip to prevent it from accidentally from falling out. Some people like to use a can opener for the bottom and pull it out that way.
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***WARNING***

BECAREFUL WITH THE SHARP EDGES!!!

I know what you mean Killa, DG is soooo easy to apply/remove and most importantly, enjoy! DG and Collinite are in the upper crust for products I use/enjoy!

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KillaCam said:
Yeah the temps outside were perfect it was just a pain to apply. Removal wasn't as bad as I put it out to be but it's nothing like the easy removal of DG sealants which is what I tend to compare everything to lol.
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Funny about how people get different results with different products.

Perhaps different paint types play a part as well, because one day I got tortured like I've never been before with a wax-sealant product, trying to get DG 105 off my Cargo Trailer some months back. I did report such here, and wondered why such happened?

I think I first tried the 105 on a small section of my Kia months before, and there were no issues with removal.

I forget the particulars, but it was a hot sunny day, mid 90's, humidity might've been 25-30%, and I decided to start on the "shady" north side of the Trailer. Horrible thing was, I applied it to the entire north side, then found out I was in for trouble.

I never had such issues on that particular Trailer paint with either Colly 476, or 845.
 
Just as an FYI I was using 915 on top of Amigo and PowerLock. The paint was clean, polished, and silky smooth.

The thing that surprises me most is how many responses this thread got. It was like a one minute thought.
 
swanicyouth said:
Just as an FYI I was using 915 on top of Amigo and PowerLock. The paint was clean, polished, and silky smooth.

The thing that surprises me most is how many responses this thread got. It was like a one minute thought.
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That's how things happen here on AG, check out the "really" thread DetailKitty started, look where it started and how directions it went in, LOL! I love that thread.

The other thing your "one minute thought" shows is the true, non hyped up passion for a true legend in the field!

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pcw25 said:
There's a lip to prevent it from accidentally from falling out. Some people like to use a can opener for the bottom and pull it out that way.
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That's a great idea. How are you able to reseal the pot - does plastic wrap provide a good enough seal or is there another creative way to accomplish that?
 
Maybe you could find a rubber lid from the top of a coffee can or peanut can that is the perfect size ???
 
Was given this advice from a detailer that has been using Collinite products or years with great success and no removal problems.

"With paste waxes, I usually use a plastic razor blade or a spatula/scraper/etc. to transfer from the tin to the pad. Then I work the wax into the pad a bit (not deeply, more to evenly distribute it) and finally use the [transfer tool] to scrape as much wax as possible back *off* the pad."
 
Obviously the scrape the product from tin and onto the pad method works when using a machine since a couple of people have done this but I have a question. Since "thin is in", especially w/ Collinite, the amount you scrape with one pass of the plastic knife is probably way more than you need. I know when I apply #476 or #915 by hand I can barely see anything on the pad and it seems to spread forever, so if you scrape and apply it to the pad and machine you'd start out with a lot being applied and then it would thin out further down the car....do you guys know what I mean?

Thoughts?

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i tried these 2 methods yrs ago & both put too much product on the pad. I tried "buttering the pad" and I tried taking a huge piece of 476 out of the can and rubbing it on a pad, both methods transferred too much product.

I found using a foam/cotton/microfibre applicator to transfer wax from the can to the paint and then spreading with a PC gave me a manageable amount of wax to work with. if I didn't grab enough I'd spread it as far as I could, then go back for more. if i grabbed too much then I'd spread it as far as it would go, frequently beyond the panel I was working on.
 
Seems to me that all this transferring, scraping, can opening, lid from peanuts tin containing is a lot of work, just lightly swipe your applicator in the tin and apply the product, let haze for a bit, remove and enjoy! I would suggest to dampen your applicator too, takes the little goes a long way even more so!

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Good thought, I forgot to mention moistening/dampening the pad to keep the product on the surface & minimize absorption into the pad where it doesn't do much good.....other than waste it.

I've spritzed the PC pad as well to accomplish the same thing but if I'm careful with what I take from the can it's usually not an issue with the PC.
 
First rain with 915:

japu8y3a.jpg


utame9ys.jpg


9ejejy8e.jpg


Some DLux (applied in the summer):

6u9e8y2e.jpg


OptiCoat left panel (roof) 915 right panel:

senesabe.jpg


Sunroof & Roof to compare; all OptiCoat (obviously same car / conditions):

e6a4u5e5.jpg


naqu4edy.jpg


ane7e3a5.jpg
 
Beading looks great, pretty consistent! What car is it on?

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Nice beads. I noticed 915 beads very small and tight similar to a coating.
 
Is #915 a pure nuba or is it a hybrid of some sort? I know that #845 falls into the hybrid class but not sure of the 915.
 
addysdaddy said:
Is #915 a pure nuba or is it a hybrid of some sort? I know that #845 falls into the hybrid class but not sure of the 915.
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I don't think anyone knows for sure, as some of the ingredients are likely proprietary.
 
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