burn my paint?

I say "pop" you say "soda". I think we are both very skilled in our trade and it was simply miss-communication.

I'm sorry again for the way things turned out here. Regardless of what term someone wants to use, two things I think we can both agree on now.

1. The use of any abrasive polish/compound whether it's used by hand, PC, FLEX, or rotary, can rub through the clear coat or paint.

2. The PC is a very safe tool, and while it can cause damage to paint, it will never create as much heat, which can severely damage paint, as a rotary will when left in one spot.


Rasky
 
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And my point was that any tool is safe if used correctly and to clearify what burning the paint meant. Sorry about that Scott but when you give out bad info it doesn't help the forum, also going back and fourth doesn't help either, but not correcting bad info doesn't help the forum.
 
Poor jad3N... to answer your main question, PC 7424 is a very safe tool to use without much practice if you follow directions. Most of the swirls were gone after i used it 1st time (about 5months ago) and i was very happy with the results (compared to my 1st time with a rotary). Bottom line is if you would like to achieve results shown on most of the Show N' Shine here i would suggest getting a nice rotary and PRACTICE. But if its a tool you will be using on your car PC or Flex will be sufficient.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
And my point was that any tool is safe if used correctly and to clearify what burning the paint meant. Sorry about that Scott but when you give out bad info it doesn't help the forum, also going back and fourth doesn't help either, but not correcting bad info doesn't help the forum.
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WOW! You're a real class act.

I guess Mike Phillips is spreading bad info all over the internet and detailing community too huh???


Maybe read #5
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online


I've more than justifed my actions.
 
Never said he did, he is very good at what he does. I was commenting on your mis-description of burning the paint. You were wrong, I corrected it and now you need to move on.
 
Just to play along I read what he said and he did say burn the paint. As far as him saying melt the paint I would disagree. It is funny how you can not think on your own to defend yourself and have to keep going to another site to try and defend yourself. Maybe you should just post threads from MOL and you not post at all. I have explained to you what burn the paint means and we no longer need to go back and fourth.
 
I am asking all to get back on topic quickly, and no more pot shots or pointing fingers at each other. We understand where you are both coming from and I believe the original post has a clear idea of your thoughts and the drama that forums can bring. Take a breather .... its not world peace here, detailing is suppose to be fun and a hobby to most !
 
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RaskyR1 said:
Maybe I'm just used to the PC now but I don't think it vibrates that bad. :)

A good tip is to place a mark on your backing plate with a sharpie. When doing correction you want to apply enough pressure, but you also need to make sure that the pad is still rotating. By having the black mark there you can push down to where it stops rotating, and then back it off just enough to get it spinning. In order for the unit to be effective at removing defects the pad needs to rotate. :cheers:

Rasky
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Great tip, I will give that a try. Thanks a lot man. :righton:
 
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