Can a newbie realistically apply Opti-coat?

duck_commander said:
i mean there is NO way of removing OC once it has been applied, correct?
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You can remove it with Optimum Compound/Polish II, M105/205 (abbrasives), window wipers for example will wear through Opti-Coat on the windsheild. However, dawn, griots paint prep, IPA wipe aren't suppose to remove it.


Add: this is a good post on Opti-coat and includes some chemical testing against OC and CQ.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ew-extreme-testing-opti-coat-2-0-cquartz.html
 
Thanks for the info... But how well do you think you would be able to compound off the OC without cutting into your clear coat? just seems risky to me... or am i thinking into it to much?
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Yes, of course a newb can do it. That is why we formulated a consumer version that is easier to apply and easier to repair. Follow these directions:

DIRECTIONS
1. Remove defects to your satisfaction
2. Clean surface to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicone.
3. Prime the applicator by making an X across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel. Or, transfer 6-10cc into a finger pump sprayer (this is what I do).
4. Wipe Opti-Coat on a single panel at a time in a thin layer using several directions for even coverage.
5. Inspect the panel with adequate lighting within a couple minutes looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
6. Use applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out (no pressure)any spots where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be abrasively repaired is allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self -leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.

Another word of advice is not to work it like a wax or like you are working it in. Make smooth deliberate strokes quickly, but not rushing...keeping in mind that you are going for even coverage and not "working it in." If you'd like to practice, Opti Seal has almost exactly the same application and is not permanant.
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By this do you mean to apply it in straight lines going in different directions? Like up down, left right, perpendicular? Can OC be applied using circular motions? I find I get more even coverage using that method with a foam applicator and sealant.
 
duck_commander said:
Thanks for the info... But how well do you think you would be able to compound off the OC without cutting into your clear coat? just seems risky to me... or am i thinking into it to much?
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I suppose it depends on what you are trying to do?

Correcting a problem in the application - If this is the case, you would only be polishing till the visual problem is gone, which most likely wouldn't penetrate through the opti-coat and you are not going to lose any of your clear coat.

This was my reason for wanting opti-coat on my car and why I am going to work on adding at least one additional coat to my car, any polishing or compounding I would do in the future would be attacking the opti-coat and not the clear cloat. All goes well, I would like to think I will be able to remove swirls from my car every when needed(re-applying opti-coat to the area each time) and not have to worry about ever wearing through the clear.

If you are looking to completely remove opti-coat from a surface, you would most likely want to polish/compound and check with water after say two passes to see if the surface is still showing properties of opti-coat. You would have to remove a little bit of the clear coat to insure you remove all of the opti-coat but with a little water and some time, you should be able to tell pretty well where to focus additional polishing without removing much clear.
 
timaishu said:
By this do you mean to apply it in straight lines going in different directions? Like up down, left right, perpendicular? Can OC be applied using circular motions? I find I get more even coverage using that method with a foam applicator and sealant.
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I don't think Opti-coat would care which direction you apply it, as long as you make sure you get full coverage.

Though, generally speaking I like to avoid circular motions because if you get some dirt or debri your applicator or towel, straight line "swirls" are much harder to find and see then circular "swirls".
 
Of course a newbie can apply OC! I like to apply it like Ultima Paint Guard Plus. I took the liberty of copying a brilliant article my son wrote,. I use 2 MF pads. I transfer a few ml of OG to a 2.5 ounce pump mister. I use 2 MF pads. I prime both just like Corey does with UPGP. One will apply OGG and the second will be the 'chaser'. The chaser doesnrt get anymore OG after priming. The main will get about as much OG as Corey applies UPGP, i.e., a pump or two per panel. I use same motions Corey does to apply. Immediately follow up the panel with the chaser. It picks up the excess and spreads it out. I look at an angle for any highspots. Typically there arent any after the chaser. This works for me every time. It is even better with a buddy doing the chaser. Many of you know I have low vision. Im legally blind and cant drive what I detail. I did a black 2011 Rubicon last Saturday solo. It turned out great. Owner was thrilled. If I can do it this alone anyone can!
Here is Corey;s write up. He is prepping for DF but Im sure he wont mind!

Ultima Paint Guard Plus tips: - 09-10-2011, 10:40 AM

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of you have probably read this in different threads a number of times as a response from me to others questions. I get a pm with questions on these tips occasionally so I thought I would post this in it's own thread so I can send a link to anyone that asks in the future.


My UPGP tips:

I love all the Ultima products I've used.

Ultima Paint prep plus works as a light polish but also leaves behind a primer for the UPGP. You do not have to use the UPPP. If you don't then you should clean the paint after polishing so the UPGP bonds properly.

Ultima Paint Guard Plus

UPGP is extremely easy to apply. The mistake people make is they apply too much. Apply the UPGP by hand and follow the directions! Below is my method which should not contradict the instructions you receive with the product.

1.-Shake the bottle.

2.-Take a clean microfiber applicator and spray 1 spray onto it to prime it.

3.-Spray it once more and do about a 3 SQ FT area.

4.-Apply in circular motions just making sure to overlap and cover the entire area. You are not polishing so no need to rub too hard or over and over. I always finish with straight lines from front to back of the panel. 3 SQ FT is an estimate. Another thing to look for is that your applicator is no longer leaving anything on the paint. But on certain colors and without really good lighting its sometimes hard to tell anyway. I basically make sure I do about 3 SQ FT. Then I'll wipe over to the side a bit where I know I haven't applied any to see if there is still anything coming off the pad. Fred gave me a tip that is a great idea. When you are no longer sure if anything is on the pad touch your clean window with it and you'll be able to see if there is still product on the applicator.

5.-If I don't see anything then its time for (1) more spritz to the applicator.

6.-Repeat until you get to the last panel. Now just walk away. Their may or may not be a slight film on the paint for a bit but it starts it's bonding process immediately. Now just DO NOT touch Wait 45 minutes and inspect. There should be no need to do anything else. This is not a product that you have to buff off. In the unlikely chance that their is a streak somewhere after 45 minutes of curing allow to cure longer (up to 12 hours) after that if a streak remains simply take some Ultima QD and spray and wipe the streak with a high quality MF towel.

Notes:

Even though on some colors or in some lighting it seems like you aren't putting anything on your paint just TRUST the product. It will come out great if you don't over apply. I didn't have any trouble at all even the first time but I have read some people apply too much. It is a little disconcerting not always being able to tell if you are putting anything on your paint.
You can place the second coat after 45 minutes. I have always waited 12 hours between coats but apparently the product has been modified and the cure is accelerated. I HIGHLY recommend applying 2 layers or more for noticeable better appearance and gloss. On my personal vehicle I place 3 layers of UPGP. One coat every 12 hours.

Update: it has been verified by Rick of Ultima that depending on environmental conditions you can layer after 45 minutes instead of 12 hours.

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timaishu said:
By this do you mean to apply it in straight lines going in different directions? Like up down, left right, perpendicular? Can OC be applied using circular motions? I find I get more even coverage using that method with a foam applicator and sealant.
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Yes you can do circles or anythiing else to ensure total coverage!
 
thanks CRX... i have so much Duragloss and Collinite products, i think i'll wait till i start to get low on them and i'll get some opti-seal first... once i get pretty good applying that, i might look into getting some CQ or UPGP.

My 2010 supercrew f150 has so much paint on it, i think i can really benefit from a more permanent sealant like the ones stated above.
 
I just Opticoated my Pathfinder and it was fairly easy. First I clayed with OTC clay. Then I polished with the Wolgang twins with LC pads using an old 7424. After that, I wiped down with 50% IPA, as I have never seen IPA harmful to a finish with occasional use. Then I did each panel with the coating using a small piece of the provided applicator - I cut it up. I knocked down the high spots with a microfiber towel. I found the applicator too grabby to knock down the coating. It came out great. If your afraid, do your wheels first to get used to the product, they came out great also. I did the whole SUV with about 8 mls (all the panels only). Initially, I transferred the product to an old style glass 1oz eye dropped bottle. This to me was easier to work with than the syringe to dispense the product, as you can easily control the number of drops you are using. I ring the syringe much harder to use, as to much pressure and a lot of the coating can squirt out. I'm a pharmacist, so I got the glass eye dropper bottle at work, but almost any pharmacy may have one behind the counter for about a buck if you ask. I found being able to count how many drops I put on with a dropper helpful, as too much product is what will mess you up I believe.
 
swanicyouth said:
I just Opticoated my Pathfinder and it was fairly easy. First I clayed with OTC clay. Then I polished with the Wolgang twins with LC pads using an old 7424. After that, I wiped down with 50% IPA, as I have never seen IPA harmful to a finish with occasional use. Then I did each panel with the coating using a small piece of the provided applicator - I cut it up. I knocked down the high spots with a microfiber towel. I found the applicator too grabby to knock down the coating. It came out great. If your afraid, do your wheels first to get used to the product, they came out great also. I did the whole SUV with about 8 mls (all the panels only). Initially, I transferred the product to an old style glass 1oz eye dropped bottle. This to me was easier to work with than the syringe to dispense the product, as you can easily control the number of drops you are using. I ring the syringe much harder to use, as to much pressure and a lot of the coating can squirt out. I'm a pharmacist, so I got the glass eye dropper bottle at work, but almost any pharmacy may have one behind the counter for about a buck if you ask. I found being able to count how many drops I put on with a dropper helpful, as too much product is what will mess you up I believe.
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The eye dropper is a great idea! I just received 24 new 2.5 Oz. finger pump misters. IME the best thing is to get the OC or OG out of the syringe and into a better delivery system. Only dispense what you need as it will cure when out of the syringe. It doesnt expire in the syringe. No other coating can make this claim after opening!
 
Yes, you can do it! I just did my F150 last Friday. I bought the OC last fall during one of the AG specials, but I procrastinated using it because (1) I had never done any true correction, (2) I was afraid of screwing up my truck with a permanent coating, and (3) the Fusion I had on there was still looking really good. But finally the Fusion needed replacement, so I washed the truck with dawn, did my first clay job, did my first M105, did my first M205, wiped it down with Griots Paint Prep, and applied my first Opti-Coat. Overall the whole process went pretty good. My correction was not as good as I had hoped (there was some slight etching on the hood, but I was afraid of doing too much correcting). But this is my daily driver and you need to look closely to see the flaws, so I'm pretty satisfied. The OC was pretty easy to put on. I used the applicator that came in the package and wiped it down with the microfiber that also came with it. I had trouble seeing the high spots due to poor lighting in my garage, so I pretty much wiped down everything after a few minutes (I hope that didn't screw anything up). Now I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.
 
clm65 said:
Yes, you can do it! I just did my F150 last Friday. I bought the OC last fall during one of the AG specials, but I procrastinated using it because (1) I had never done any true correction, (2) I was afraid of screwing up my truck with a permanent coating, and (3) the Fusion I had on there was still looking really good. But finally the Fusion needed replacement, so I washed the truck with dawn, did my first clay job, did my first M105, did my first M205, wiped it down with Griots Paint Prep, and applied my first Opti-Coat. Overall the whole process went pretty good. My correction was not as good as I had hoped (there was some slight etching on the hood, but I was afraid of doing too much correcting). But this is my daily driver and you need to look closely to see the flaws, so I'm pretty satisfied. The OC was pretty easy to put on. I used the applicator that came in the package and wiped it down with the microfiber that also came with it. I had trouble seeing the high spots due to poor lighting in my garage, so I pretty much wiped down everything after a few minutes (I hope that didn't screw anything up). Now I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.
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Great to hear! IME you cant over wipe but you can over apply. Im sure your truck looks amazing!
 
duck_commander said:
Chris - i was very close to purchasing either opti-seal or opti-coat with my last AG purchase... But being a noob myself, i thought, "what would i do if i messed up the application of OC"... i mean there is NO way of removing OC once it has been applied, correct?
Click to expand...

OC 2.0 is easily removed with a polish or finish polish, if within a few days of application. No need to break out a compound...but, if you are talking about just "fixing" a high spot where you applied it too thick, all you have to do is use Optimum Finish or Poli Seal by hand on that affected area and "knock down" the smear. There is no need to fully remove it and start over.

duck_commander said:
Thanks for the info... But how well do you think you would be able to compound off the OC without cutting into your clear coat? just seems risky to me... or am i thinking into it to much?
Click to expand...

You are over thinking it. There will be no need for a compound. We had to compound Opti Coat/Guard Pro off initially, but we've made both easier to remove within the first few weeks until fully hardened. As I said above, there is no need to remove the coating to fix a goof...you can just hit the affected area by hand and repair it quite easily.

timaishu said:
By this do you mean to apply it in straight lines going in different directions? Like up down, left right, perpendicular? Can OC be applied using circular motions? I find I get more even coverage using that method with a foam applicator and sealant.
Click to expand...

You can apply it in any combonation or direction you like. The goal is even coverage. With that said, you need to know that it will dry quickly and you do not need to "work it." Just wipe it on in a couple of directions quickly but deliberately and then lightly buff any unflashed (to clear) areas with a soft towel (only to remove the excess, not to rub in), and then leave it alone. Touching it as it is drying will leave smears.

Old Tiger said:
The eye dropper is a great idea! I just received 24 new 2.5 Oz. finger pump misters. IME the best thing is to get the OC or OG out of the syringe and into a better delivery system. Only dispense what you need as it will cure when out of the syringe. It doesnt expire in the syringe. No other coating can make this claim after opening!
Click to expand...

I know a lot you you guys don't like using it from the syringe, but that is just the storage container. You can certainly transfer it into another container for use...like we detailers do with just about all our other products. I personally tranfer 10cc into a 2oz finger pump sprayer which works very well unless you have wind.

Using it from the syringe, an eye dropper, or like CQuartz recommends their coating puts too much product in a single spot and the pad will absorb more. I like the fine mist finger pump because it primes the face of the pad more thoroughly and wastes less.
 
The pump bottles work best for me. Thanks for this tip Chris!
 
i like reading threads like this that bring up questions I hadnt yet considered.

been debating it for almost a year now... just added it to my cart for the next order.

i was thinking about one of these to apply the OC to the paint or the applicator
4 oz. Sample Bottle with Sprayer

thanks for the questions and answers!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
Thank you Chris for the clarification. Im going to be opti-coating my roof soon. Just need to place the order.
 
Just another thought if you on the fence about opti-coat, about a month ago I opened my car door into a small snow/ice pile and scratched a spot about 1 inch wide by 1/2 inch tall...could not see the snow/ice from inside the car and hadn't noticed it when I parked...

I should have taken pictures but I was more interested at the time in seeing how bad the scratches were. I cleaned the door panel off and then grabbed a white hand pad and some polish II and worked just that area, removed most of the scratches that day. I went back on a nicer day and worked on it a little more with a white and then red pad. It is probably in the 80-90% range now and if I can find it later when I do the entire vehicle I will work on it some more. I am not sure someone else could find the remaining mark, but I know where it is at :buffing:.

I told you that story to tell you this one, :D, it has been couple weeks since the last round of removing the scratches and after I washed the car yesterday, I was rinsing it off and wanted to check out how big of an area of opti-coat I removed. From what I can tell (how the water was sheeting off the entire panel), I did not penetrate the opti-coat. And if this is the case, well, that is just awesome.

I was using Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and would have applied Speed Shine the last time it was washed, not sure if either of these products could have/would have hid wearing through the opti-coat but I will check beading/sheeting one of these next days after hitting the area with paint prep.
 
In my opinion, virtually ANYONE can apply Opti-Coat 2.0. I've used it half a dozen times now and think it's about as simple to use as it gets.
Don't let the word "permanent" scare you. It isn't permanent, you can remove it if you have some polish laying around.

All you have to do is be organized, not over apply it, only work one panel at a time, make sure to have proper lighting and double check for high spots at a couple different angles.

Here is my take on it after using it for the very first time on a Jeep Patriot. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/35657-jeep-patriot-opti-coat-2-0-a.html
 
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