Can someone educate me on Iron-X?

HateSwirls

HateSwirls

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I've never used such a product but I read so many articals on it, people seem to benifit from it.

My RAV is an 08'
My truck is 17 years old

Is it time to use Iron-X?

I clay twice a year, isn't claying enough?
 
Try claying your car and then hit it with Iron-X and see all that you are not getting with the clay. I will not install a coating without a complete decontamination with both.
 
I tried Ironx on my wheels yesterday with no results. My wheels are in good condition besides some brake dust that had stuck in the corners of the spokes. I let it dwell for a minute, it changed color, I rinsed and nothing came off. No agitation. Maybe I didn't use it properly. :dunno:
 
I haven't used it yet, but from some reading I've done I was under the impression that it changed color when removing iron deposits. I thought it stayed the same color if the surface is clean...
 
04Golf said:
I tried Ironx on my wheels yesterday with no results. My wheels are in good condition besides some brake dust that had stuck in the corners of the spokes. I let it dwell for a minute, it changed color, I rinsed and nothing came off. No agitation. Maybe I didn't use it properly. :dunno:
Click to expand...

You need to let it dwell longer, and it will need some agitation. Its not a magic cleaner, but does work very well when used as directed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
Iron-x is a staple in my detailing arsenal. I thought claying was enough, till I used it the first time. Its well worth the money IMO.

Pickup a 1 liter bottle, that will be enough for both your vehicles, and maybe have some leftover.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
ken tuep said:
You need to let it dwell longer, and it will need some agitation. Its not a magic cleaner, but does work very well when used as directed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
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How long to dwell? I didn't know how long it would take to dry so I was trying to be safe than sorry.
 
I think this is a valuable thread.

Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!
 
nissenc1337 said:
I think this is a valuable thread.

Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!
Click to expand...

Where are these yellow/orange dots located on the car?

Can you feel them?
 
I have only used IronX spray on wheels and paint. The dwell time is less than 2 min in my experience. The key is to have a slightly wet surface. I also will work the product with a foam or mf pad. If you maintain the paint well the subsequent applications in future months/years will not be as significant as the first time.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
 
nissenc1337 said:
I think this is a valuable thread.

Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!
Click to expand...

Typically from my experience the back of the car is usually the worst off, try it there. But before you try it get your eyes REALLY close to the paint in different areas along the back of the car, you should notice small rusting spots (very tiny) and this is what iron-x eliminates that claying alone can not remove.
 
HateSwirls said:
My RAV is an 08'
My truck is 17 years old

Is it time to use Iron-X?

I clay twice a year, isn't claying enough?
Click to expand...
Clay is an abrasive tool/product that is used to remove above surface contaminates---often described as being "bonded".

If there are any contaminates...let's use brake/rail dust as examples...that have penetrated into the microscopic pores of the top film-layer of the paint:
Then during the claying process some of these contaminates may be pulled-out and away from the paint;
but others will be sheared-off...leaving the remnants behind, and imbedded.

Although the paint may feel/look as smooth as a baby's behind...
These contamination-remnants are just waiting for the next cycle of moisture and heat
to start their destruction of the paint systems. Rust from within.

Iron-X and similar decontamination systems were designed to remove these remnants.
But sealing the paint is imperative, after being so decontaminated.
This will go a long way towards its preservation over its expected life.

Even though SS paint systems will experience benefits from de-cons like IronX...
This is especially true for BC/CC paint systems.

Bob
 
Iron x is a great product if you aren't doing any polishing afterward. But I feel like it's a waste of money if you plan on compounding or polishing because you're more than likely going to remove that thin layer of paint that contains the iron particles when you polish.
It is fun watching it react to white paint though.
 
KillaCam said:
Iron x is a great product if you aren't doing any polishing afterward. But I feel like it's a waste of money if you plan on compounding or polishing because you're more than likely going to remove that thin layer of paint that contains the iron particles when you polish.
It is fun watching it react to white paint though.
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...and where would these iron particles then be during the polishing process.... surely they would be caught up in the spent polish and abraded paint that you have just removed from the paint?

I worry about doing something like this because the risk of trapping one of those hard particles between your pad and paint whilst polishing increases, along with the risk of inflicting a deep scratch, or pigtails etc....

I personally try to completely remove all of the bonded and embedded contaminants from the paint before starting polishing, in order for the surface to be as clean as possible.
 
I love Iron X.. Here are a few pics to demonstrate why I do..

Before:

Minnick 350z 015 by 530inv, on Flickr
After WG uber wheel cleaner. Notice left over break dust inside the wheel barrel.

Minnick 350z 023 by 530inv, on Flickr
During Iron X work time.


Minnick 350z 028 by 530inv, on Flickr
After letting Iron-x dwell and agitated with wheel brush and sponge. Not the same wheel from above two pics, but this is how all the wheels came out.

Minnick 350z 020 by 530inv, on Flickr
I love this stuff.. It is a great follow up after the surface grime is removed.
 
mwoolfso said:
I have only used IronX spray on wheels and paint. The dwell time is less than 2 min in my experience. The key is to have a slightly wet surface. I also will work the product with a foam or mf pad. If you maintain the paint well the subsequent applications in future months/years will not be as significant as the first time.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

I don't know if this is considered the best course of action with Iron-X. In Mike's book (I have the iBook), he discusses the proper way to clean wheels with Iron-X (page 40.) Specifically, he gives the reader the 3 main "camps" that people are in:

  1. Spray Iron-X directly onto a dry, dirty wheel.
  2. Wash wheel and tire, then rinse, then spray Iron-X onto clean, rinsed wheel.
  3. Wash wheel and tire, then rinse, then DRY off water and then spray Iron-X

Mike was in Camp 2 (your camp) until he tried BobbyG's technique, which was camp 3.

In Mike's words, "Camp 3 for the win!"

BobbyG's technique was a tweak to my technique and that is to wash the wheel and tire first, thus removing the oily road grime and brake dust but then pat the wheel dry using a clean utility towel so there would be no excess water left on the wheel to flush the freshly sprayed-on Iron-X off the wheel and onto the ground where its decontaminating ability is wasted.
Click to expand...

Now, everyone is entitled to their own opinion and they can do whatever they want when it comes to cleaning their cars, but I figured that I would share Mike's opinion just in case you hadn't seen it. Happy detailing!
 
lawrenceSA said:
I worry about doing something like this because the risk of trapping one of those hard particles between your pad and paint whilst polishing increases, along with the risk of inflicting a deep scratch, or pigtails etc....

I personally try to completely remove all of the bonded and embedded contaminants from the paint before starting polishing, in order for the surface to be as clean as possible.
Click to expand...

Exactly. It is a detailing product. If someone wants to do a quick and nasty job, you don't need the Iron-x but detailing is about trying to be as kind to the vehicle as possible. Ultimately you can probably get the same finish without many of the detailing products but, as one of my customers tells me, it is all about how much paint you leave behind. A detailer should be getting the best possible results whilst removing the least paint necessary - that is why we use products like Iron-X.

Radarryan said:
I don't know if this is considered the best course of action with Iron-X. In Mike's book (I have the iBook), he discusses the proper way to clean wheels with Iron-X (page 40.) Specifically, he gives the reader the 3 main "camps" that people are in:

  1. Spray Iron-X directly onto a dry, dirty wheel.
  2. Wash wheel and tire, then rinse, then spray Iron-X onto clean, rinsed wheel.
  3. Wash wheel and tire, then rinse, then DRY off water and then spray Iron-X

Mike was in Camp 2 (your camp) until he tried BobbyG's technique, which was camp 3.

In Mike's words, "Camp 3 for the win!"
Click to expand...

I think that this depends upon the products - what works for Iron-X will not necessarily be correct for the competitors. The reason is simple, IX is runny. If you spray it onto a wet surface, it gets even more running and much of it ends up on the ground or just on the very bottom of the panels. With the more viscous products, they will tend to cling much more effectively so you do not have such a problem. Of course, this also means that the products will not run in behind badges and similar and will not give such a significant bleed. So you have to tailor your method for the products you are using.
 
PiPUK said:
I think that this depends upon the products - what works for Iron-X will not necessarily be correct for the competitors. The reason is simple, IX is runny. If you spray it onto a wet surface, it gets even more running and much of it ends up on the ground or just on the very bottom of the panels. With the more viscous products, they will tend to cling much more effectively so you do not have such a problem. Of course, this also means that the products will not run in behind badges and similar and will not give such a significant bleed. So you have to tailor your method for the products you are using.
Click to expand...

I believe I read that another consideration of leaving the surface wet, was that the product would technically then be diluted once sprayed on and effectively mixed with the water....
 
I used iron x for the first time yesterday as directed in "camp 3" (post 17), the wheels have never looked so clean even when we drove it out of the dealer with 10 miles on it. Now if I could just get the smell out of my garage...
 
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