CarPro Eraser

KyleWrap

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So once this crappy weather is done i plan on doing an overhaul detail on my 2013 WRX. It seems the Collinite 845 I applied back in the fall is still holding up. So i figured my prep steps would be wash, eraser, clay, iron x, then wash again. This is all before i buff.

Now, i know there are rumors saying you can use dawn dish soap to strip wax but i read that wasn't true. This is just a thought but would i be able to mix a few ounces of eraser in with car soap to strip everything? Or, maybe even wash with my Griot's soap and then wash with eraser and water? I feel like I'm better of washing, spraying eraser and all that then wash everything after but I'm curious.

Any thoughts?
 
You are really adding a lot of unnecessary steps here. Eraser is designed to remove polishing oils, not wax. Your polishing will demolish any wax or sealant, then use eraser before your lsp. Just wash, iron x, clay, polish, eraser, then lsp.
 
No need for eraser like you have it. You should do this

Wash
Ironx
Clay
Polish
Seal or coating

If you coat then prior to applying the coating you should do an eraser wipe down or two.

The polishing of the paint will remove any 845 that is there.
 
Wouldnt Iron X pick up anything clay left behind? Or is it interchangeable. (i.e. 1st clay then then Iron X & 1st Iron X then clay)
 
No the ironx only works for iron particles.

You can do to either way but I like the ironx the clay.
 
Yeah i didnt mean "anything" it left behind my bad for wording on that. I got the lemon scented Iron X... i opened it up in my living room to put the spray nozzle on. Needless to say it did not smell like lemon too much. Stunk up the whole room.
 
Just the way the water still beads. On occasion when it would rain and freeze into a crap load of tiny ice beads. It looked pretty cool. I think i have pictures
 
Just the way the water still beads. On occasion when it would rain freeze into a crap load of tiny ice beads. It looked pretty cool. I think i have pictures


Just curious how people judge this... Are you looking at the hood / other horizontal panels???
 
The cherry scent is a lot better from my experience.
I wouldn't keep any ironx unless I need to clay and polish.
500ml is more than enough for a full vehicle decon process.
Eraser is a plus after a polish job!
 
The cherry scent is a lot better from my experience.
I wouldn't keep any ironx unless I need to clay and polish.
500ml is more than enough for a full vehicle decon process.
Eraser is a plus after a polish job!

I hope its more than enough for several vehicles!
 
I hope its more than enough for several vehicles!

For me is 500ml for a sedan size.
Paint,windows,wheels and last for wheel well. Just add another bottle for a different car.
May also consider adding trix for wheels if pull out for pre coating cleaning :)
 
I'm going against the grain here, but although Eraser is ok for removing some things...if you really want a surgical surface prior to LSP, and especially coatings...the Eraser product sits on the shelf. I only use pre-coating prep products like DP prep polish, DG squeaky clean, or the pinnacle or blackfire pre coating products. Eraser does leave a residue. IPA can dull paint and its working backwards in my opinion.
 
So once this crappy weather is done i plan on doing an overhaul detail on my 2013 WRX. It seems the Collinite 845 I applied back in the fall is still holding up. So i figured my prep steps would be wash, eraser, clay, iron x, then wash again. This is all before i buff.

Now, i know there are rumors saying you can use dawn dish soap to strip wax but i read that wasn't true. This is just a thought but would i be able to mix a few ounces of eraser in with car soap to strip everything? Or, maybe even wash with my Griot's soap and then wash with eraser and water? I feel like I'm better of washing, spraying eraser and all that then wash everything after but I'm curious.

Any thoughts?

I don't believe Eraser will provide any benefit adding it to wash water. I'm passing what Corey at Carpro has told me, it was designed to be used after polishing to remove any possible oils left from the Polishes.

Wash, Iron-X, Clay, (you can wash again at this point if you wish) Polish, Eraser, LSP.

Some use Clay, then Iron-x, and some use Iron-X, then Clay. I like the latter sequence better myself, seems most detailers do.

It is easy to quickly go through a 500ml bottle of Iron-X on an average sized car if you spray it on trying to cover every square inch of paint with it full strength.

One way to stretch the product most have found is to have a bucket of clear warm water, and a soft sponge. Then apply a few sprays of Iron-X to a panel, and spread it with a dampened sponge for even coverage. Rinse and squeeze out the sponge as you go, and insure you work in shade, not letting Iron-X dry on the paint.

It is best to work very quickly to apply and spread, then let dwell a number of minutes to act on the iron contamination. Work upwind (hopefully), wear nitrile gloves and rinse very liberally. When you think you've rinsed enough, rinse some more! It has a tendency to get into tight areas, under door handles, and such, and will continue to act on exposed metal surfaces under such.

When getting to the finale, and then using Eraser, use a very soft MF Towels to apply and spread, good to have a few Towels for this purpose. To do a couple Panels, then switch to a fresh clean Towel.

You should not be seeing residues or marring IMO with Eraser provided you wipe it off completely, and use ultra soft Towels. At this point before the LSP whether a coating, sealant, or wax, a gentle soft touch is best.
 
I'm going against the grain here, but although Eraser is ok for removing some things...if you really want a surgical surface prior to LSP, and especially coatings...the Eraser product sits on the shelf. I only use pre-coating prep products like DP prep polish, DG squeaky clean, or the pinnacle or blackfire pre coating products. Eraser does leave a residue. IPA can dull paint and its working backwards in my opinion.

I would probably wash the car after applying the CarPro to make sure there is no residue, apply some opti-seal and then Collinite 845 to go the extra mile.
 
I don't believe Eraser will provide any benefit adding it to wash water. I'm passing what Corey at Carpro has told me, it was designed to be used after polishing to remove any possible oils left from the Polishes.

Wash, Iron-X, Clay, (you can wash again at this point if you wish) Polish, Eraser, LSP.

Some use Clay, then Iron-x, and some use Iron-X, then Clay. I like the latter sequence better myself, seems most detailers do.

It is easy to quickly go through a 500ml bottle of Iron-X on an average sized car if you spray it on trying to cover every square inch of paint with it full strength.

One way to stretch the product most have found is to have a bucket of clear warm water, and a soft sponge. Then apply a few sprays of Iron-X to a panel, and spread it with a dampened sponge for even coverage. Rinse and squeeze out the sponge as you go, and insure you work in shade, not letting Iron-X dry on the paint.

It is best to work very quickly to apply and spread, then let dwell a number of minutes to act on the iron contamination. Work upwind (hopefully), wear nitrile gloves and rinse very liberally. When you think you've rinsed enough, rinse some more! It has a tendency to get into tight areas, under door handles, and such, and will continue to act on exposed metal surfaces under such.

When getting to the finale, and then using Eraser, use a very soft MF Towels to apply and spread, good to have a few Towels for this purpose. To do a couple Panels, then switch to a fresh clean Towel.

You should not be seeing residues or marring IMO with Eraser provided you wipe it off completely, and use ultra soft Towels. At this point before the LSP whether a coating, sealant, or wax, a gentle soft touch is best.

Lots of great info, really appreciate it!
 
I just recently used Iron X for first time , I used it before Claying and it seemed to make a solid difference . My clay didn't get all that dirty as I have seen it get previously not using Iron X. Excellent Product IX is .
 
I just recently used Iron X for first time , I used it before Claying and it seemed to make a solid difference . My clay didn't get all that dirty as I have seen it get previously not using Iron X. Excellent Product IX is .

This seems to be the sole reason and benefit of why many use Iron-X first before Claying.
 
This seems to be the sole reason and benefit of why many use Iron-X first before Claying.

Agree.

And it is the fact the a product like Iron-x will dissolve the iron, allowing you to rinse it away whereas with claying, all of the iron contaminants that you remove embed themselves IN the clay, and you then have the potential to drag these hard particles over the paint, leading to scratches....

Also, my understanding (and I may be incorrect) is that the Iron removers will reach and work on the iron that has made its way INTO the pores of the paint, whereas clay is only shaving off the bit of iron that is protruding from the paint.
 
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