CarPro Innovative Nano Coats

[richy]

Richy, speaking of sprayers, does the sprayer for IronX give an even spray? most spray heads with an on/off head don't have adjustable spray.

how's the waterspots incidence versus non-CQd paint? or do you get waterspot issues at all before CQ?

And, might you have been curious enough to have tried the pencil test for the hardness of CQuartz?

I have just tried the ironX soap and a little sample bottle. I haven't opened up my new bottle yet so I can't answer that for you.

As far as water spots go, if the car sits outside in the rain, most of it will run off. If some stays, you will get spotting, but it will clean off. I didn't have any water spotting on my FX. As far as any scratch test goes...no...not that brave.

 

[sohail99]

If you really like playing with waxes, don't buy this product. If you use CQ, leave it alone and let it do its thing. The looks are amazing (wet shine) and the dirt and water repellancy must be seen to be believed. Other than ReLoad or AW, I put nothing on it.

Actually, some of the repainted parts on my car have really soft paint and marrs easily!!!

I was looking to protect that mostly! + Yea I ordered reload as well, I just dread the paint ships and stuff, thats why CQ will go in double layered on the front bumper and hood + left side of the car!

Right side, I'll continue waxing!(for now! till I finish up my stock lol!)

Thanks a lot for the advise! :xyxthumbs:

Opti-coat on rear hatch and bumper


Any prep steps I'm missing btw? :-

1. Wash - (Rinse > Foam cannon with ironX soap gel > dwell > rinse)

2. 2- bucket method with ironX as soap

3. Spray ironX all over > let it dwell > rinse off!

4. Clay

5. again foam cannon(ironX sg) and rinse

6. Dry

7. CQ

(all this after polishing the surface, of course!)

 

[richy]

Actually, some of the repainted parts on my car have really soft paint and marrs easily!!!

I was looking to protect that mostly! + Yea I ordered reload as well, I just dread the paint ships and stuff, thats why CQ will go in double layered on the front bumper and hood + left side of the car!

Right side, I'll continue waxing!(for now! till I finish up my stock lol!)

Thanks a lot for the advise! :xyxthumbs:

Opti-coat on rear hatch and bumper


Any prep steps I'm missing btw? :-

1. Wash - (Rinse > Foam cannon with ironX soap gel > dwell > rinse)

2. 2- bucket method with ironX as soap

3. Spray ironX all over > let it dwell > rinse off!

4. Clay

5. again foam cannon(ironX sg) and rinse

6. Dry

7. CQ

(all this after polishing the surface, of course!)

Sorry, gotta correct things quite a bit. The soap gel is not like a regular car wash soap that you dump in a pail and mix with water or add to a foam gun. Not at all. See this link here for instructions on how to use it:
Iron X Soap Gel
Basically, you're using small amounts straight onto your wash media. Once you've done that, you will clay and polish. Do not use a glaze or sealant based product for polishing. Here is a thread I did to help people know how to prep the paint:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/34030-preparing-surface-cq-oc.html#post440345
So, in summary:
Wash with IronX soap
clay
polish
seal
be the envy of your friends and neighbours, LOL.

 

[jlb85]

Avi, good to see you around

I'm glad the line is available stateside. Iron X is some great stuff, so is CQ!

 

[sohail99]

Sorry, gotta correct things quite a bit. The soap gel is not like a regular car wash soap that you dump in a pail and mix with water or add to a foam gun. Not at all. See this link here for instructions on how to use it:
Iron X Soap Gel
Basically, you're using small amounts straight onto your wash media. Once you've done that, you will clay and polish. Do not use a glaze or sealant based product for polishing. Here is a thread I did to help people know how to prep the paint:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/34030-preparing-surface-cq-oc.html#post440345
So, in summary:
Wash with IronX soap
clay
polish
seal
be the envy of your friends and neighbours, LOL.

Thanks a lot again!!

I really like the "Be envy of your friends and neighbours" part! lol

 

[Matt]

Wow this is awesome! If only I didn't enjoy playing with LSP's so much....

I love Adams detail spray and FK425, would I be able to use them on this product or would this be similar to using a wax over the coating, a no go?

 

[sohail99]

^it all comes down to personal preference really!

I too like fk425 and use it as a quick refresh all the time! But after CQ, I bet i'd like reload too!

Maybe, I'll do 1/2 panel reload and 1/2 panel fk425

 

[Avi@CarPro]

Are you using Fumed Silica or Pyrogenic Silica in this product to give it strength?

Very interesting product!

Product description says it can last up to 2 years protection. What is the best re-application procedure?

Thank you taking the time to answer our questions here. Love to see vendors participate in forums.

Sorry ,cant disclose anything about what we use inside.
for best maintenance is to quick spray Reload from time to time , Reload is not QD its actually a good sealant itself which last long as well, round 4 months. since its not organic ,, it doesnt absorb dust.

Richy, speaking of sprayers, does the sprayer for IronX give an even spray? most spray heads with an on/off head don't have adjustable spray.

how's the waterspots incidence versus non-CQd paint? or do you get waterspot issues at all before CQ?

And, might you have been curious enough to have tried the pencil test for the hardness of CQuartz?

the spray trigger is the simple type, since you need to spray the ironx all over. if you have the chemical resisting triggers you can use it as well.
water spots will be smaller than wax protected, and easy to remove them.

Avi, good to see you around

I'm glad the line is available stateside. Iron X is some great stuff, so is CQ!

thank you , glad to be here as well.

about the people questions here for waxing after CQ, we dont see any reason why, but if you like waxing you can wax after cquartz is well cured, and use only high Nuba wax , not petroleum base!

 

[sohail99]

^As in, the water spots wont cause etching if dried in the sun?

 

[indiej1]

that i'd also like to know. water etches compel polishing and consequently the stripping of product(s) already applied.

thanks Richy and Avi.

 

[Avi@CarPro]

^As in, the water spots wont cause etching if dried in the sun?

that i'd also like to know. water etches compel polishing and consequently the stripping of product(s) already applied.

thanks Richy and Avi.

if its not acid rain , it will be easy to remove. if you live in harsh weather area, such as Singapore, Malaysia,Indonesia, Taiwan , i will suggest using reload after Cquartz to help easy wiping the water etches.

 

[sohail99]

^Thanks!

I'll be getting more for coating customer's cars if I start detailing professionally!