Claying with Water Only!?

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brandon g

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Lately I've been claying by spraying water lightly from the hose. This seems to provide adequate lubrication. I've had instances in the past where this wasn't providing enough lubrication and had to use a lubricant. I like this method because it keeps me from having to wash the car again to rid the lubricant. Do you have any suggestions? I know it probably doesn't glide as well which can cause marring but in my recent experience it seems to glide almost as good. Thanks for any tips or suggestions. Just wondering if anyone else does this?
 
Seems less convenient to me than using a spray bottle

I am always leery of bumping the paint with the nozzle or hose itself.

If you like water only, using it in a spray bottle seems more efficient and safe.
 
Nothing wrong with that. We do light polymer clays during rinsing on some wash packages.
 
Buy your self a bottle of onr and a gallon of distilled water follow instructions for mixing, cheap and it works.
 
Clay lubes dont leave a residue if you are wiping the car as you go. Water by itself does not have enough lubricity to be safe for claying without marring. Why risk it?
 
I don't really feel that water provides the necessary lubrication needed to use clay as friction is needed. I personally would go with 2 ounces of onr with a gallon of water in a spray bottle . That will last a long time and reduce the possibility of marring the paint. Another alternative and this is what I do, is using the clay wash mitt with a gallon of water and two ounces of onr. I may have a little waste, but i can easy knock out claying an average sized car in about 30 minutes.
 
brandon g said:
I like this method because it keeps me from having to wash the car again to rid the lubricant.
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I almost always clay when I'm washing. Wash, rinse, resoap, clay, rinse. Some clays will break down a bit in the wash solution.
 
Water as a claying lubricant?
Depends on the "Brand name".
For example:

Bilt-Hamber clay bars use ordinary tap water as a lubricating agent.


Bob
 
I'm now using a Pinnacle Waterless Wash as a clay lube. It's superior to ONR and it's as cheap as ONR (just about). I couldn't see claying with water to avoid cleanup - as I'd be worried about excessive marring. Also, IMHO - cleanup is a necessary step after claying.

After you clay, just wipe the car down with a waterless wash. All the heavy abrasive particles should be off of the surface and you are just removing the spent clay lube.

I don't even dry when I clay. Waste of time. Since my clay lube is made with DI water and I know I will be wiping the car down when finished.

I feel you need to wipe a car down (or wash it) with a waterless wash after claying if there is even a modicum of contamination being removed. Re-washing via 2BM or rinseless is likely a waste of time. This is the perfect use of a waterless wash. As, this contamination will show up as brown sludge on your towels when you wipe it down. It's the abraded contaminant scum slurry suspended in the the clay lube. Just wiping the clay lube off will leave some of this on the surface - meaning the surface is less than clean.

I don't see how water only as a clay lube or avoiding post clay clean-up addresses any of these concerns or situations. But, these are my concerns and experiences - others may not care or be worried about such things.
 
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys. You've definitely gave some good new options for me to try. I would imagine your paint would have to be very soft to be marred by most commercial clays.
 
I've used water pretty successfully in claying with water for quite a while on several vehicles. I've never seen any marring

When I use water, I don't use it in a spray bottle. I actually keep the hose in one hand and the clay bar in the other. I'll put the nozzle on the "shower" setting and keep a flow of water across the area I'm applying the clay. I found it to be much faster than using a lube/qd and easier to get the right amount of lubrication than trying to lay down a spray of QD. The one drawback is the cold water makes the clay stiff.

Now that I'm getting ready to try a Nanoskin I'm going with their Glide product to see how I like it. If I break out the old Meg's clay again wouldn't have any issues with the water.
 
tpr1634 said:
Buy your self a bottle of onr and a gallon of distilled water follow instructions for mixing, cheap and it works.
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I would agree with the above (any good rinseless will do), it's simple and effective and you can rinse the car afterwards. As far as using clay goes, Mike Phillips himself stated he wouldn't do a clay without adding some polishing step afterward because clay causes micro-marring to many finishes.

Ever thought about just doing a simple spray-on decontaminant like Iron-X? That way you don't even have to touch the paint.

brandon g said:
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys. You've definitely gave some good new options for me to try. I would imagine your paint would have to be very soft to be marred by most commercial clays.
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I thought the exact same thing until a post earlier this year when Forrest (from Mothers) chimed in on a claying thread. Commercial clays have different manufacturing processes depending on the make and not all of them are as "fine" as you might believe.

I'd also add that the condition of your paint adds a variable as well. Someone claying a garage queen has less to worry about than someone who clays their daily driver that sits outside 24/7 and drives through a construction zone every day for 3-4 months. The potential for different contaminants changes based on where you drive--sometime this is trivial and other times it's not. Best to be safe IMHO :-)
 
tpr1634 said:
Buy your self a bottle of onr and a gallon of distilled water follow instructions for mixing, cheap and it works.
Click to expand...


:iagree:

I knock down the heavier stuff with the pressure washer. Then, panel by panel starting with the roof, I wash with ONR (mixed for washing) but before drying off the panel, I spray ONR mixed with distilled (as instructed on bottle for lube) and clay the panel.......then dry off.
 
I have some iron-x and thought it was just another step used along side claying. I didn't know replaced the need for claying. I do feel its slightly expensive but time is money and if it saves me from having to polish from claying induced marring then its worth it. I used it on several vehicles but never saw hardly any purple iron particles dissolving so thought maybe it wasn't needed on vehicles from my area. Not sure if it rids other contaminants that don't show the purple discoloring.
 
I definitely want to try the nanoskin product. My home owners association already hates me for being the only one in the neighborhood who washes my car. If I was to use a pressure washer they would definitely make it their personal vendetta. I already got a letter threating legal action stating I was running a car washing business from my unit from the property management. They said they had evidence because someone had taken a picture of me washing a car. Come to find out the picture was of me washing my own vehicle. How would you like to live in my neighborhood.
 
brandon g said:
I have some iron-x and thought it was just another step used along side claying. I didn't know replaced the need for claying. I do feel its slightly expensive but time is money and if it saves me from having to polish from claying induced marring then its worth it. I used it on several vehicles but never saw hardly any purple iron particles dissolving so thought maybe it wasn't needed on vehicles from my area. Not sure if it rids other contaminants that don't show the purple discoloring.
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Iron-X focuses on iron/metal particles. You would still need some type of claying to remove any other embedded particles that are not iron based (ex. overspray, sap....etc)
 
After my wash I rinse/refill the wash bucket with some wash soap and water and clay with that. I've seen no marring and it glides a whole lot better than just water alone
 
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