Cloudy haze on black - finding the right combo

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Mike, so what polish would you recommend for this paint?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike, so what polish would you recommend for this paint?

If the thread starter wants to keep it simple then get McKee's Fast Cut Compound and Jeweling Wax. Knock it out in two steps like we did here,


McKee's 37 = Winner BEST PAINT!

Congratulations to all the guys on the team that made the magic happen and congratulations to Bob McKee and his new line of products including the products used to create the finish that won BEST PAINT!


On Autogeek.com

McKee's 37 Fast Compound - 16 oz

McKee's 37 Jeweling Wax - 16 oz


:dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:



Besides that SONAX, Optimum, Menzerna, Pinnacle and Wolfgang all make bubba-proof compounds and polishes.

 

[axel06]

yes a winner winner chickin dinner saweeeet!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[custmsprty]

Wow!

Reading the forums for 12 years! And this is your first post!

Can I ask you which forums you read and where do find you bet the best help and information? After 12 years you must have read a number of forums and learned a lot.




Black paint is the hardest color to perfect because it shows everything.




So your TECHNIQUE is removing the defects but the paint doesn't look good after buffing?





What you're describing sounds like Micro-marring, DA Haze or Tick Marks. These three names all mean the same thing it's just some people use one over the other to describe what they see after machine polising. I cover all this in my how-to book for what it's worth.





The secret with ANY color when it comes to polishing paint starts with abrasive technology. I been typing those two words out for years now and a month or so ago I started a thread on this forum and also posted a poll on my Facebook page and the majority of people on both this forum and on Facebook all agree technique was the number #1 factor.

I'll continue to respectfully disagree with everyone that voted for technique both on Facebook and the forum because I've been there and done that as long or longer than most posting their opinion and I test everything on black paint. I'm hear to tell you that when it comes to polishing scratch-sensitive clearcoats the most important factor is the abrasive technology... not your technique.





Here's your picture, I took 15 seconds to download it and then upload it to your gallery here on AGO so it he picture could be "inserted" instead of "attached" as it makes it easier for everyone to see and discuss.

It's kind of hard to see but I think what I'm seeing is called micro-marring

If I'm seeing it correctly, I drew a line around it....

When you get a chance and after you get your car perfect maybe go vote in the poll.



POLL - What's the number one most important factor when it comes to polishing paint?

i agree with mike that the abrasive tech is everything when polishing paint. i would try mckees 37 line for finishing out. and welcome to the forum let us know how you make out.... keep on shining

So Mike, just out of curiosity and I'm hoping I'm reading this correctly, but in the past it was technique?

Based upon this thread from a few years ago what made you change your mind to products from technique.

Quote"

"Technique is everything"

I just read that in the middle of page 10 in my how-to book and it made me think about how often someone asks,

Question: Which foam pads are best?



Answer: Buffing pads are important but as long as you're using a good quality, clean foam pad with a quality product, technique becomes more important than the pad or the products.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/54960-technique-everything.html

 

[cardaddy]

I might just return the CG stuff I got and man up to the Menz line. Honestly their product names make it difficult to understand without a lot of research on here what a good cut/polish/finish combo would be. I thought CG polishes would be extra user friendly because it's marketed towards more new guys, and they have a comprehensive line, but I didn't find anything that easy to use and was questioning everything I've learned through the years.

Menzerna really is rather straight forward. ESPECIALLY after one tries to wade through the overwhelmingly byzantine site of CG trying to figure out what goes where, and why, and when. I mean... there are SEVEN different 'glazes' alone. Then 8 different 'polishes' (not counting the marine line). Although... the site is A LOT BETTER than it used to be.

Where Menzerna basically has 3 heavy cut, 3 medium cut, and 4 light cut products (counting the glaze).

I think where some of the confusion is though is they changed their labels, (and some of the naming) last year. Then you look at the chart on the Autogeek site here and it's a mix of old and new. For instance... it makes reference to one of the most well used, well liked, BEST performing products from Menzerna, FG400 as we all know and love. But now it's called Heavy Cut on the Menzerna site. (Formerly Fast Gloss ... or FG).

But basically the new nomenclature is setup as a FOUR part system. Part 1 for compounding, part 2 for polishing, part 3 for finishing, part 4 for LSP topping. However... (and this is where it's a little confusing until you understand what the first 2 are and where they come into play in the compounding step) is that they, FOR SOME REASON have removed the TRUE heavy cutting products from the 4-part system, and call them "Special Products", those two being HC-300 and FG-400, (and for SOME reason their 3-in-1 AIO product). Confused yet? :laughing:

View attachment 47242

But seriously... (short of FG-400 and HC-300) all of the *new* labels have a 1, 2, or 3 as the prefix on the bottle. (For the compounds and polishes). Such as 1 followed by 000 for your compound, then a 2 followed by say 500 for your medium cut, then 3 followed by 500 for your finishing polish.

As such, the predominate colors are 1= Red, 2 = Yellow, and 3 = Green, with Blue on the label(s) for your (4th) LSP product(s). So what they are thinking is 1, 2, 3 and blue and you're a happy camper. :laughing: Although to ME leaving FG400 out of the ONE SPOT is LUNACY to the TENTH DEGREE! Why???? Because FG400 is freaking AMAZING!

If you'll go HERE, you can download a 2 page PDF that'll help.

All that aside, the Autogeek chart is not a flow chart, and not in the same color background as the one from the Menzerna site, but works, and may be less confusing overall. It basically shows a 5-part system.


View attachment 47243

End of the day... grab a bottle of FG-400 (cut 8 - gloss 8), another of MC-2500 (cut 5 - gloss 7), then one of either SF3500 or SF3800 both of which have outstanding gloss! (3500 cut 4 - gloss 9, 3800 cut 2, gloss 10+). The difference between the two you may never see on a hard paint, including many blacks. Although 3800 might be easier to keep from micro-marring with on your final passes as you work it down.

If you really are still having problems with DA Haze/micro-marring then the next one below might be of interest.

One that *seems* to be new is the TF125q Top Finish Glaze (cut 1 - gloss 10+), although I have a couple of older bottles of what they called a "Finishing Wax" (which was called APO-60) that I'm willing to bet is VERY close to the same product. It basically has hardly any cut, but fills a bit (which will both keep from micro-marring as well as fill and cover), and has INCREDIBLE GLOSS!!!

Of course all of the above you'd top with Power Lock as a great sealant and sit back and enjoy. (I tend to prefer Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, perhaps because I'm weird..... but nothing wrong with either of them.)