Coating Cracks

Goonie75

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Good morning folks. 2 weeks ago we put Gyeon Syncro on a range rover. Had to polish of Gyeon Pure first. Client didnt like it and wanted more beading. Polished and erased with Eraser.

Sends me these 2 pics today of what he says looks like the coating is cracking... that's all the pics I have. Any ideas? Did I do a step wrong? Why would a coating crack like that?

Thanks in advance

Ryan
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Was the paint corrected before coating? That second picture makes it seem like quite a bit of scratching in there. Also resembles crows feet which is a sign of clear coat failure. But I guess wait for more input, I'm not confident I can tell what that is from those 2 pictures.
 
Was the paint corrected before coating? That second picture makes it seem like quite a bit of scratching in there. Also resembles crows feet which is a sign of clear coat failure. But I guess wait for more input, I'm not confident I can tell what that is from those 2 pictures.
Yes. But his wife apparently messed that up already too. I'll attach the corrected pics. It was corrected and Pure put on. He didnt like it. "Spotted" so we polished again and did Syncro.

Could it be micro cracking. Idk.

Thanks for the help...

These are the corrected pics
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coatings once cured on paint are microns thick, they won't "crack" What he's seeing there is clear coat failure/damage. May seem shocking but when you have ferrous metals embedded into clear coats and they are left to degrade over time, they will eat into the clear coat itself thus exposing the vehicle to damage like what you're showing here.
 
coatings once cured on paint are microns thick, they won't "crack" What he's seeing there is clear coat failure/damage. May seem shocking but when you have ferrous metals embedded into clear coats and they are left to degrade over time, they will eat into the clear coat itself thus exposing the vehicle to damage like what you're showing here.
Thanks. I'll suggest that to him. I'm at a loss. He left it in a humidity controlled barn for several days so I know it was cured. Thank you for the input.

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Good morning folks. 2 weeks ago we put Gyeon Syncro on a range rover. Had to polish of Gyeon Pure first. Client didnt like it and wanted more beading. Polished and erased with Eraser.

Sends me these 2 pics today of what he says looks like the coating is cracking... that's all the pics I have. Any ideas? Did I do a step wrong? Why would a coating crack like that?

Thanks in advance
I'm not sure about the hairline cracks in the second picture, but in the first one the spot is too perfectly round to be a random defect. Because of that I supposed that something round (like a metal ball or who knows what) hit the paint there, and the defect is the result of that physical impact. The hairline "cracks" in the second picture could be the result of heat damage or some kind of chemical etching, that has been cleaned up in the meantime.
 
I'm not sure about the hairline cracks in the second picture, but in the first one the spot is too perfectly round to be a random defect. Because of that I supposed that something round (like a metal ball or who knows what) hit the paint there, and the defect is the result of that physical impact. The hairline "cracks" in the second picture could be the result of heat damage or some kind of chemical etching, that has been cleaned up in the meantime.
So maybe it's not really the coating cracking... I'm not sure what to tell the client. I can't seem to locate that specific scratch in the before pictures. Lol. Thanks a lot for the feedback

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So maybe it's not really the coating cracking... I'm not sure what to tell the client.
Well, you can explain to them that the coating can not crack, so the defect must be in the clear coat. You can also explain that polishing and coating a car can expose flaws in the clear coat that were already there for some time (possibly for year), but were not noticed, because the rest of the paint looked just as bad as the compromised area; but after the "cleanup" (ie. polishing) they will became more apparent. They also most likely scrutinized the paint more thoroughly after the coating than they did before, when they didn't pay much attention to it, because there was no work or results to inspect.

You might also offer to re-coat the affected panel to demonstrate or check whether the defect is really (not) in the coating. However, only do that if you measured the remaining paint thickness and you're pretty sure that there's a _lot_ of clear coat that you can abrade, and you won't just extend the defect or make it worse. If the paint is not thick enough or just generally a lot thinner than elsewhere on the car, that could be reason for a local clear coat failure - in which case you should refer to that as the cause, and not touch the area with anything, as it only will get worse from there on.

You did measure the paint thickness before and during correction, didn't you?

Btw what part of the car are these defects at? Are they on a vertical or on a horizontal surface?
 
I wonder if that round mark is his phone's camera? because it's too perfectly positioned to be a reflection of the camera.
The paint sure looked nice when you corrected, would be a shame if they trashed it already :(
 
Well, 3.6 is pretty low already. Is that a measurement at the defect spot? If not, what's the lowest measurement there? And what do you measure on the door sills?
 
Door jams. And to be honest I dont recall what it was specifically at the defect. My fault there. I knew he would notice other things due to the significant removal of swirls. Idk. Just trying to keep things good... lol. Thanks again
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I wonder if that round mark is his phone's camera? because it's too perfectly positioned to be a reflection of the camera.
The paint sure looked nice when you corrected, would be a shame if they trashed it already :(
That you very much. When I got it back a couple of weeks later it was already scratched again. I did tell them how to care for it but sometimes you can't help everyone

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Well, it seems like you only have a single mil between the thickest point on the door jam and the thinnest on the hood. Which is thin enough for the clear coat to start to develop cracks, due to UV radiaton now permeating through it entirely, and because of temperature swings, which are obviously very prevalent on the hood, because of the engine heat. It could be very well the case that you've a clear coat failure there, because of having removed too much paint to correct the scratches. I'm not saying that it's definitely the case here, just that it wouldn't be surprising, considering the location and the paint thickness measurements.
 
On the second picture. It seems like they have scratched it pretty severe around the cracking defects. So wondering how those got there. And if that cracks came when the long scratch and the wide scratch got there. It seems almost like the panel had to be bending down a bit when they where made. And if the clearcoat was thin on that spot or an old bird poop or chemical etching was there to begin with. That could have made the paint to crack. Or there was something that has been pushed down on the cracking spot when the other scratches was made. It seems very strange to point out that cracking defects when they have done the scratches around it. Are they trying to get the fault on you? And want you to pay for the fixing which would be a repaint of the hood.

The first picture looks like an od reflection from the phones camera or lighning bulp.

Hope you get it sorted out.

/Tony
 
Second pic, is that the paint or the windshield? Aren't those wiper streaks?

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Second pic, is that the paint or the windshield? Aren't those wiper streaks?

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Nope. The paint. They have butchered it already I think. I think the cracks are the start of CC failure. Jeff with Gyeon saw them and said no way it's the coating. Coating cracks he says are way too small.

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Clear coat heat cracking?


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That's what I'm thinking. Perhaps I simply missed it or the compounding sent it over the level. It's on the hood. I told him at the beginning the clear coat was thin so he knew what was going on before we started. He said to proceed. Idk. Thanks for the feedback

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That's what I'm thinking. Perhaps I simply missed it or the compounding sent it over the level. It's on the hood. I told him at the beginning the clear coat was thin so he knew what was going on before we started. He said to proceed. Idk. Thanks for the feedback

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Just curious, how many miles are on that vehicle and how old it is? I would imagine she is not garage kept, is she?


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