Corvette owners(or anyone), what do you think?

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I just ordered the Flex 3401, M105, M205, three Cyan 6.5" hydro-tech flat cutting pads for M105, already have three white 6.5" LC CCS pads for M205. I also ordered gen II Griot's 3" polisher with 3.5" cuttting, polishing, and waxing pads. I will seal the car with WGDGPS 3.0 with a blue 6.5" LC CCS pad that I already have. :buffing:

I know Menzerna is a popular choice among Vette owners, but I like the SMAT technology of M105 and M205. Will all these products be able to attack the hard clearcoat of my 07 z06, yet finish nicely?

 

[ScottB]

Many Vette owners use and love 105/205 so you will do fine. Its simply a preference, diminising versus non-diminishing abrasives. If you feel you want additional gloss and reflection pickup Menzerna 085rd which most will suggest jewels paint to additional level.

 

[bfowkes]

I have used that combination on a few vette's and have had great results with it. I think that will suit you quite well.

 

[CEE DOG]

Nice, looks like we are both on the same page. Just got my flex and am ordering the 3" Griots

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Nice, looks like we are both on the same page. Just got my flex and am ordering the 3" Griots

Awesome. rops:

 

[Harleyguy]

Don't forget to post some pictures during your correction.And yes you will love the end results of the 105/205 combo but i finish down with 3m ultrafina and a blue 3m uk pad

 

[Gary Sword]

Personally I prefer Menzerna and I prefer to apply DGPS my hand. Whatever works for you is good.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Personally I prefer Menzerna and I prefer to apply DGPS my hand. Whatever works for you is good.

Any advantages of applying DGPS by hand?

 

[Gary Sword]

Any advantages of applying DGPS by hand?

You don't waste a lot of product like you do when to apply it with a polisher. I also enjoy doing my sports cars more my hand.

 

[frosty]

You don't waste a lot of product like you do when to apply it with a polisher. I also enjoy doing my sports cars more my hand.

I would debate just the opposite. I too thought that until speaking with AG informed my you could do a car in half the time and a lot less product than you waste with a hand applicator.

After trying it I have to say they are correct. I have a jar of carnubua wax and I dip into it 3 or 4 times at most to do a whole car. Actually what I do is put the Souveran wax to the pad and do one light circle with almost no pressure. First time you'll put way too much on most likely. I did.

I have to do that about 3 times for an entire car maybe 4 at the most. I've waxed 3 cars and you can't even tell the jar of wax has been used.

I tried Zaino this past weekend. It said use a cotton applicator and you could do a car with .5 oz or 1/3 oz when you get the hang of it.

So I mixed up one ounce with their accelerator and decided to use my 3401 & blue pad instead. I went over the car 3 times with about .8 oz.

I suppose you could get just as efficient with a hand applicator, but then there is time and taking a lot of stress out of your hands, wrist & arms.

BTW, I have both the Souveran & Fuzion and can't tell the difference between them or some cheaper waxes as far as looks go.

I have a thread on this. You're going to get really subjective answers and it comes down to the eyes of the beholder. Like RSurfers car above, it looks so great without wax, you could use a $5 wax on it and then a $200 and would be hard pressed to tell a difference.

 

[Gary Sword]

I would debate just the opposite. I too thought that until speaking with AG informed my you could do a car in half the time and a lot less product than you waste with a hand applicator.

After trying it I have to say they are correct. I have a jar of carnubua wax and I dip into it 3 or 4 times at most to do a whole car. Actually what I do is put the Souveran wax to the pad and do one light circle with almost no pressure. First time you'll put way too much on most likely. I did.

I have to do that about 3 times for an entire car maybe 4 at the most. I've waxed 3 cars and you can't even tell the jar of wax has been used.

I tried Zaino this past weekend. It said use a cotton applicator and you could do a car with .5 oz or 1/3 oz when you get the hang of it.

So I mixed up one ounce with their accelerator and decided to use my 3401 & blue pad instead. I went over the car 3 times with about .8 oz.

I suppose you could get just as efficient with a hand applicator, but then there is time and taking a lot of stress out of your hands, wrist & arms.

BTW, I have both the Souveran & Fuzion and can't tell the difference between them or some cheaper waxes as far as looks go.

I have a thread on this. You're going to get really subjective answers and it comes down to the eyes of the beholder. Like RSurfers car above, it looks so great without wax, you could use a $5 wax on it and then a $200 and would be hard pressed to tell a difference.

I have been detailing a long time and from my experience it's definitely not true. I waste a lot more product using a polisher especially when I apply with a 6" pad. When I do it by hand I use hardly any product at all. I would say I end up using about twice as much product when I use a polisher. There's about as much product soaked up in a 6" pad when I done as it took me to do a whole car by hand with very little product soaked up in the pad. A lot of times I even apply with my hands without a pad using next to no product at all. Although using a polisher is faster I still enjoy doing it my hand on everything except something large like my enclosed car trailer.

I really dislike the looks of Zaino and would never use it again no matter how much or how little product I used.

I will agree that on highly polished paint the difference in appearance between high end and cheaper waxes is minimal.

 

[Matt S.]

I have been detailing a long time and from my experience it's definitely not true. I waste a lot more product using a polisher especially when I apply with a 6" pad. When I do it by hand I use hardly any product at all. I would say I end up using about twice as much product when I use a polisher. There's about as much product soaked up in a 6" pad when I done as it took me to do a whole car by hand with very little product soaked up in the pad. A lot of times I even apply with my hands without a pad using next to no product at all. Although using a polisher is faster I still enjoy doing it my hand on everything except something large like my enclosed car trailer.

I really dislike the looks of Zaino and would never use it again no matter how much or how little product I used.

I will agree that on highly polished paint the difference in appearance between high end and cheaper waxes is minimal.

Everyone is different - I prefer to apply LSPs with a polisher and find that I use less product. I've had great luck using QD as lubricant to help spread the product and get a super thin / even application, I've also found that red/blue/gold pads will absorb a bit more product than a less dense (gray) pad.

In the long run, it does not matter how you apply your LSP. Do what you enjoy - that's why we all do what we do, isn't it?

To the OP - 105/205/DGPS will work awesome on your Z. I've had great luck with it on several C5/C6s,

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

To the OP - 105/205/DGPS will work awesome on your Z. I've had great luck with it on several C5/C6s,

:xyxthumbs:

As far as pressure, when polishing with a cutting pad and 105, should I apply the same amount of pressure as when I polish with a polishing pad and 205?

 

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

:xyxthumbs:

As far as pressure, when polishing with a cutting pad and 105, should I apply the same amount of pressure as when I polish with a polishing pad and 205?

It depends on what you are trying to remove. If you are removing defects with 105 then you will use a little pressure, then with the 205 not as much, then on your final polishing you want to use some pressure at first then ease off as you finish.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

It depends on what you are trying to remove. If you are removing defects with 105 then you will use a little pressure, then with the 205 not as much, then on your final polishing you want to use some pressure at first then ease off as you finish.

I will be using the 105 to remove defects, then 205 as my final polish, the DGPS. 2 step polishing process for me.

 

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

I will be using the 105 to remove defects, then 205 as my final polish, the DGPS. 2 step polishing process for me.

Depending on how bad the defects are will dictate your pressure, but if you have to use too much pressure then you need to move to a more aggressive pad. Since you only have the 205 as a finishing polish, then go over your 105 with 205 and a medium pad then 205 on a finishining pad. Later on you might want to invest in a better final polish like 85rd or Ultrafina because you are leaving some gloss, depth and clarity on the table by stopping at 205.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Depending on how bad the defects are will dictate your pressure, but if you have to use too much pressure then you need to move to a more aggressive pad. Since you only have the 205 as a finishing polish, then go over your 105 with 205 and a medium pad then 205 on a finishining pad. Later on you might want to invest in a better final polish like 85rd or Ultrafina because you are leaving some gloss, depth and clarity on the table by stopping at 205.

could I use 105 then straight to 85rd or ultrafina? Or, is 205 required following 105?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I've had great luck using QD as lubricant to help spread the product and get a super thin / even application,

Just to note, most spray detailers contain a lot of water and it's usually not a good idea to add water to your wax or paint sealant, you want to use it just like the manufacture intended it to be used.

could I use 105 then straight to 85rd or ultrafina? Or, is 205 required following 105?

M205 is a very light cleaner/polish similar to 85RD, I've had great luck finishing down with it only and taken everything off the table so to speak.

M205 is not a legal requirement after M105, the idea behind following M105 with something less aggressive is because M105 is designed and formulated primarily for guys working in body shops. They are sanding paint flat and then removing the sanding marks with a wool cutting pad and M105. AFTERWARDS they need to remove any swirls left by the fibers of the wool pad, the abrasives in the M105 and the combination of both.

Correctly used, M105 finishes down to about 90% of your goal of a 100% swirl free finish and M205 is designed to take you to the 100% mark. First follow using M205 with a polishing pad on a rotary buffer and then with a polishing pad on a DA polisher.

If you want to substitute a different products that M205 you sure you can and you should be able to use a very light cleaner/polish like PO85RD since it's stated that it can remove #2500 Grit sanding marks.

Sometime in the near future I'll do some side by side testing on clear over black and make sure everything I keep reading is accurate about how different polishes finish out and other don't as clear over black is pretty accurate.

rops: :dblthumb2: :xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

could I use 105 then straight to 85rd or ultrafina?

Just to note, it's Ultrafine on the English portion of the label, I think one person, one time posted Ultrafina, which is the Spanish portion of the label and then everyone copied that person like lemmings.

3M Perfect-It 3000 Ultrafine Machine Polish

If you look close, you can see in the top name on the label it says, Ultrafine and below it it says Ultrafina.

Doesn't matter to me but I think it causes confusing as people think there are two different lines one is Ultrafine and one is Ultrafina and they are the same line extension in the 3M family of products, just different languages that cater to the demographic market.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Just to note, most spray detailers contain a lot of water and it's usually not a good idea to add water to your wax or paint sealant, you want to use it just like the manufacture intended it to be used.



M205 is a very light cleaner/polish similar to 85RD, I've had great luck finishing down with it only and taken everything off the table so to speak.

M205 is not a legal requirement after M105, the idea behind following M105 with something less aggressive is because M105 is designed and formulated primarily for guys working in body shops. They are sanding paint flat and then removing the sanding marks with a wool cutting pad and M105. AFTERWARDS they need to remove any swirls left by the fibers of the wool pad, the abrasives in the M105 and the combination of both.

Correctly used, M105 finishes down to about 90% of your goal of a 100% swirl free finish and M205 is designed to take you to the 100% mark. First follow using M205 with a polishing pad on a rotary buffer and then with a polishing pad on a DA polisher.

If you want to substitute a different products that M205 you sure you can and you should be able to use a very light cleaner/polish like PO85RD since it's stated that it can remove #2500 Grit sanding marks.

Sometime in the near future I'll do some side by side testing on clear over black and make sure everything I keep reading is accurate about how different polishes finish out and other don't as clear over black is pretty accurate.

rops: :dblthumb2: :xyxthumbs:

When I ordered 105/205 a couple days ago, for the 105 is says new "DA approved" formula. What makes it DA approved. It doesn't say DA approved for 205?