Critique my plan of attack, please!

Mike Honcho

Mike Honcho

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My daily driver. Outside pretty much 24/7. 2011 Lexus Matador Red Mica

Okay...here goes...

1. Wash

2. Clay

3. FG400

4. SF4000

5. D114 (15:1 as a panel wipe to get residue/oils off paint.)

6. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer

7. WGDGPS 3.0

8. 6-pack Goose Island Honkers Ale

Please add/subtract as you see fit. (Except for the beer.)

I'm kinda foggy about steps 5 & 6. I'm thinking both aren't needed?

Thanks!
 
I would throw a decontamination (iron x) between #1 & #2 and leave out #5. Also do a test spot to see exactly whats needed as far as correcting the paint. Good luck
 
16 oz is more than enough. You can conserve/optimize how much you use by spraying across the panel, waiting 15 seconds and then spreading with a microfiber sponge, then waiting a bit more. If you see any heavy spotting or if the panel is drying too fast you can spray some more.
 
Mike Honcho said:
My daily driver. Outside pretty much 24/7. 2011 Lexus Matador Red Mica

Okay...here goes...

1. Wash

2. Clay

3. FG400

4. SF4000

5. D114 (15:1 as a panel wipe to get residue/oils off paint.)

6. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer

7. WGDGPS 3.0

8. 6-pack Goose Island Honkers Ale

Please add/subtract as you see fit. (Except for the beer.)

I'm kinda foggy about steps 5 & 6. I'm thinking both aren't needed?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
LOL at #8 :props:

Skip #6. #5 is a good option.

You don't NEED to use IronX, but it is good stuff.
 
I agree with deleting #6 but i might want to do a test spot with it to see if it makes a difference. If so? By all means. If not? Saves some time. I also agree with a complete decon by adding an iron dissolver before the clay process. If you don't have any Iron X you can get away with the smallest bottle of it...500 ML. I use maybe 300 ML on a medium sized vehicle if it has never had it.

Oh, and i don't care what anyone else here says...DO NOT delete #8! :xyxthumbs:
 
I think I will go with the IronX, for curiosity sake.
 
I also think I underestimated step 8. I'll need a 12 pack. Haha!
 
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about D114 unless you're doing a coating.

Not sure about #6 either, if you're doing 4000 you'll not need it.

On a DD, you'll REALLY be surprised just how well FG400 will work!:dblthumb2:

What you can do with it, is start with your cutting pad(s), like say orange LC pads. Then halfway through the working process of the product, switch to a blue pad to finish the products work cycle. It's not a full 2-step process, but it'll look like one. I call it the 1.5 step.

What you DO want to do is prime both pads at first, then work both pads completely through a cycle, then clean on the fly. Then once you start again with product on the cutting cycle you leave what you can after 4 or so passes, THEN switch to the finer pad without adding any more product (maybe a spritz of water) then work it down.

You might end up not even wanting to deal with the 4000.
:dunno:

Or you can 'cheat' a little and just do it on the hood, roof, trunk, and tops of the fenders. :D
 
Great idea cardaddy! (It simply amazes me how much knowledge is on this forum! It really amazes me on how forthcoming everyone is on sharing and helping!)

BRAVO!!!
 
I disagree, you will need D114 as Menzerna polishes are pretty oily. Don't wanna apply WDGPS to oily paint. ;) Coating or not, you want bare paint to get the best bond. In this situation, paint polish enhancer is a waste, period. A quick wipe with D114 is perfect before applying WDGPS.
 
Mike Honcho said:
My daily driver. Outside pretty much 24/7. 2011 Lexus Matador Red Mica

Okay...here goes...

1. Wash

2. Clay

3. FG400

4. SF4000

5. D114 (15:1 as a panel wipe to get residue/oils off paint.)

6. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer

7. WGDGPS 3.0

8. 6-pack Goose Island Honkers Ale

Please add/subtract as you see fit. (Except for the beer.)

I'm kinda foggy about steps 5 & 6. I'm thinking both aren't needed?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

iron x between #1 and #2 is a good idea, but not essential.

#5 is important, sf4000 will leave quite a bit of "polishing oil" on the paint. i usually use IPA or Carpro Eraser.

delete #6, WGDGPS 3.0 will adhere better and last longer when applied to bare paint.
 
Matt@landrover said:
iron x between #1 and #2 is a good idea, but not essential.

#5 is important, sf4000 will leave quite a bit of "polishing oil" on the paint. i usually use IPA or Carpro Eraser.

delete #6, WGDGPS 3.0 will adhere better and last longer when applied to bare paint.
Click to expand...
We agree. :dblthumb2:
 
Are you using anything to remove tar, and if so, what step are you doing that at? I usually wipe down the areas that have tar on them then remove the tar as my step one.
 
Hadn't that about tar. Symptoms of tar contaminant?
 
Why not just use IRON-X snow foam? Two birds, one stone and all. ;)

Working to remove tar can be anything from mineral spirits, to gasoline, to WD40, to Tar-X. People complain about Tar-X because it doesn't work quick and fast, but it WORKS, and works safely. Don't even have to worry about "exposed flame" when you're using it. :laughing:

Mike I wasn't saying not to wipe at all after polishing. It's clear that you'll need to wipe after compounding, (which creates the most mess) then again after polishing. Sure... a dampened towel (with something like D114) would be great to use. I've been a HUGE fan of D114 since it first came out, don't use anything else in fact. I even make all my panel wipe with it.

BUT... it's been discussed for - years - now whether or not you'll need to have the surface surgically clean, (as you would when using Eraser or a D114 25%+ alcohol mix) when applying a sealant. Don't think for a minute that Power Lock, or WGDGPS 3.0 isn't oily! (Much more so than FF4000 for sure.) :eek: I've yet to see a WOWO sealant fall off the surface when being applied after a good polishing. Heck, you can put on a sealant after nothing more than a good wash, (without claying). Although I like to clay/Nanoskin before ANY sealant goes on, period.

Now if you are using a WOWA sealant you absolutely would want the surface to be cleaner as that's a completely different process.

Talk about oily.... check out a bottle of Prima Hydro Seal if you want to see something fuuuuuunnnkeeeeeeeee. Holy MOLY is that stuff weird! Looks like 6 week old jamba juice left out in the sun. :eek: I've never seen anything separate like it does, EVER! There are clearly 3 different layers in the bottle. Has a ton of scent to it as well, very... shall we say... 'fruity'. :rolleyes: I have an 8oz spray bottle of it that another forum member sent me, in a clear spray bottle. I'd (if I were the manufacturer) put it in nothing less than a solid black bottle. Now it works, don't get me wrong, but it scares me! I did a torture test of it on my daughters KIA Sportage as she doesn't have a garage, and it's parked outside 24/7/365. That and her husband doesn't even KNOW HOW to wash a car. By his own admission his Mazda 3 sport wagon has never been washed. (I'm sure it's been driven through washes here and there, but I know that boy doesn't even own a bucket.) :rolleyes:

I did a quick D114 wash of the hood, IN THE SUN. Then a rinse and dry, then applied Prima Hydro Seal in direct sunlight (on black cherry paint) just to see if it'd streak. Went on, wiped clear, and was pretty darned slick. That was early last month and it's still beading.

For me though... I'll go back to Megs M21 2.0 or WGDGPS 3.0 any day, every day. ;)
I have BF and WG WOWA versions, as well as plenty of other WOWO sealants, (that I like on jambs) but prefer WOWO versions overall. If I'm going to get things clean enough for the WOWA, then I'll just do the coating and call it a day. :xyxthumbs:
 
wipe dirt away from tarred areas then pour some mineral spirits into a spray bottle and douse the tar down and let it set a few minutes then wipe right off with a cloth. I then wash the vehicle then work on removing bugs from the front end, mirrors, front of the roof top, etc. then wash off, dry, wax, etc.
 
I presently use CarPro eraser after polishing to remove any oils. So can I replace that with D114 (15:1)? Does D114 work as well? I know Mike Phillips has an article about IPA's, but what's a good safe dilution ratio to use and what %alcohol? Thanks
 
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