Cutting and Polishing combo

[dlc95]

I have the same HARD paint as u OP on my candy white VW and I just did a full 2 step correction on my car....I have a GG6 with 5" BP and am using Meguiars thin discs, which are amazing compared to the hex logic pads I used before....I compound with Ultimate compound and polish with m205 and got very good results....there's still RIDS here and there but the overall look is VERY improved.

the Ultimate compound finished down really good, and I probably could've went right to LSP but I figured I'd just do the polish since I was already at it....the polish went really good as well giving it that extra touch of shine....keep on at it and you'll get through on the hard paint, if I can do it anyone can lol

Which hex pads did you use? I get great cut out of the green one. Not so much out of the yellow and orange.. Paired with UC, I've burned paint before on a pc.

 

[Paul A.]

Let's not suggest Paulyfe12 NEEDS a rotary machine to get what he wants. I have corrected paint very affectively with my old fashioned PC 7336, a MF cutting pad and M105. Yes, it took a bit longer but it cut and leveled just as well as my rotary when i was done. I haven't used M100 or 101 but 105 i would guess is extremely similar in cut and working time i.e. QUICK! And i have NEVER liked heat when buffing out or cutting. Heat is not necessary for the process and is more detrimental than beneficial. Yes, it is a byproduct of friction but, to me, an unwanted byproduct and i do everything i can to minimize it...even with my rotary.

Having said that, my new favorite is now Menzerna FG 400! I have used it with both my rotary AND PC and love how it finishes down almost LSP ready.

Every single Audi i have worked on was like it had diamond powder in the clear coat layer...substantially hard to cut down but i have done it with my Porter Cable 7336 DA. The last one i did was with a LC purple foamed wool pad and M105 (didn't have my Menz FG400 yet) and then finished it down with a white LC pad, PC cranked to 6 and several (and i do mean several) slow passes of Menz PO106FF. Having heard how some of the pro's on here talk about working WG Uber i would certainly want to give that a shot with a DA, a good, harder (i.e. Aggressive) cutting pad and some slow, overlapping, deliberate passes under very discerning light.

Not sure of your pad inventory but i would be surprised if you don't already have what you need to make a difference towards what you want with a refined process and focused effort. I love my 4" purple foamed wool pads and my MF cutting pads mated with an aggressive compound (hopefully Uber or the Meg's compound) would slowly work the heck out of that super hard paint.

For my personal vehicles i take my time and get it right. If i only had a DA i could get rotary results now with pads and products that certainly can cut pretty dang good. I also "crush my pads" with downward pressure when using my PC carefully maintaining pad rotation but speed 6 helps me do that better than anything less. I also spritz some distilled water about midway through my section passes when using M105...keeps the cut refined a bit and lowers the dusting. Yup...would take me longer than my rotary but that's ok, i love doing it.

Good luck and keep us posted when you make some progress. We'd love to share your excitement when that happens.

 

[dlc95]

Let's not suggest Paulyfe12 NEEDS a rotary machine to get what he wants. I have corrected paint very affectively with my old fashioned PC 7336, a MF cutting pad and M105. Yes, it took a bit longer but it cut and leveled just as well as my rotary when i was done. I haven't used M100 or 101 but 105 i would guess is extremely similar in cut and working time i.e. QUICK! And i have NEVER liked heat when buffing out or cutting. Heat is not necessary for the process and is more detrimental than beneficial. Yes, it is a byproduct of friction but, to me, an unwanted byproduct and i do everything i can to minimize it...even with my rotary.

Having said that, my new favorite is now Menzerna FG 400! I have used it with both my rotary AND PC and love how it finishes down almost LSP ready.

Every single Audi i have worked on was like it had diamond powder in the clear coat layer...substantially hard to cut down but i have done it with my Porter Cable 7336 DA. The last one i did was with a LC purple foamed wool pad and M105 (didn't have my Menz FG400 yet) and then finished it down with a white LC pad, PC cranked to 6 and several (and i do mean several) slow passes of Menz PO106FF. Having heard how some of the pro's on here talk about working WG Uber i would certainly want to give that a shot with a DA, a good, harder (i.e. Aggressive) cutting pad and some slow, overlapping, deliberate passes under very discerning light.

Not sure of your pad inventory but i would be surprised if you don't already have what you need to make a difference towards what you want with a refined process and focused effort. I love my 4" purple foamed wool pads and my MF cutting pads mated with an aggressive compound (hopefully Uber or the Meg's compound) would slowly work the heck out of that super hard paint.

For my personal vehicles i take my time and get it right. If i only had a DA i could get rotary results now with pads and products that certainly can cut pretty dang good. I also "crush my pads" with downward pressure when using my PC carefully maintaining pad rotation but speed 6 helps me do that better than anything less. I also spritz some distilled water about midway through my section passes when using M105...keeps the cut refined a bit and lowers the dusting. Yup...would take me longer than my rotary but that's ok, i love doing it.

Good luck and keep us posted when you make some progress. We'd love to share your excitement when that happens.

I find that if I use a "wetter" compound like Ultimate Compound, or M100 I get maximum pad rotation. I typically do my heavy PC cutting with a green buff and shine or hex face pad. It has the biggest pores of any in their line up. I also use speed 6.

I prefer the smat compounds with this set up for the option for sustained cutting. The wetter compound lets the pad slide across the paint more than a thicker one. This allows the abrasives to do their thing and cut at the highest highest rate possible.

In these situations I'm just under free spin. I want as much rotation as possible, with imparting enough pressure to work the abrasives into the surface.

The green b&s, or hex pad is strong enough, to work the compound, and has enough compression ability to stay rotating on contours, curves, and some irregularities. The abrasives attach to the frames of the cell structure, and cut the paint without the additional resistance of having abrasives in a tighter cell organization like yellow and orange pads have. These pads have been a godsend for me, as well as the pink lake country ccs. They're officially designated as a polishing pad, but I've seen them advertised as a cutting/heavy polishing, and even paired with a "sever swirl remover" in a system.

That technique is very different to the approach I use with something like Menzerna FG400 on a LC Cyan Hydrotech. I feel I get more correction with the Green pad / UC though.

There is a gallery and write up I did with that set up on my profile for anyone interested. It's not something I'd recommend to people, but maybe as an alternative. It works great for me, and it saves me a ton of time. It takes me longer to move my cart, or brush out my pad than it does to cut the paint sometimes.

But to your point - Yes! Totally agree with you!