Cutting Power Between M105 and Meg UC

350z00m

350z00m

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is there a big difference in cutting power between megs m105 and Megs UC?

Jay
 
I think there is. UC is very easy to work with and does a good job if you're not in a big hurry. UC also has a lot of oils in it so it gives a false sense of correction. Wipe the oils away with IPA to see where you really are correction wise.
 
i just did a another 370z red.. while it took out most of the swirls i felt like it wasnt correcting the way i wanted with Orange ccs pad.(5.5 in)... i have a 32 oz of m105 but havent tried it out yet. UC doesnt seem to get rid of the RIDS either.

Jay
 
Random Isolated Deep scrat:dblthumb2:ches
 
tuscarora dave said:
I think there is. UC is very easy to work with and does a good job if you're not in a big hurry. UC also has a lot of oils in it so it gives a false sense of correction. Wipe the oils away with IPA to see where you really are correction wise.
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I think TD is right on.

UC has more cut that Opt Compound II but less than M105 in my hands. Very easy to use. I use a PCXP with 5.5" flat pads as standard. I will normally use UC as a less aggressive first compound vs M105 as I step up with an orange pad. UC took water spots out of paint on an Audi A4 when WG TSR and OPT Compound II would not. M105 cuts faster than UC. I can buy UC locally and at about 1/2 the price per ounce vs M105.

UC finishes a little better than M105 but I still feel that I need to polish after either with an orange pad. If you have heavy correction and don't mind a little dust, get M105. Follow Kevin Brown's method precisely as I didn't and continue to learn M105 lessons (both will be staples for the time being as I have Opt Hyper Spray Compound that still needs a try). If you are in a bind and need an easy to use compound with cut that you can buy at the local autoparts store, UC is highly recommended.
 
I used Megs UC the other day ( with a orange pad) and it worked very well on light swirls and was vary easy to work with .....I will be useing it again I'm sure....I might add that I did use M205 after and it came out great.

You can take a look at this

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...s-order-smat-products-might-surprise-you.html

I read the directions on the UC and didn't see any thing about useing a IPA wipe down to get rid of oils.....but I know alot of you like to do that step.
 
i've been using the Megs UC... just i am not happy with the result with orange pad. was wondering if m105 would remove more defects then the UC.. with orange pad.. or do i have o start wetsanding to get id of the rids?..... :buffing:

Jay
 
350z00m said:
i've been using the Megs UC... just i am not happy with the result with orange pad. was wondering if m105 would remove more defects then the UC.. with orange pad.. or do i have o start wetsanding to get id of the rids?..... :buffing:

Jay
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M105 will cut faster than UC. UC will work longer. If you follow Kevin Brown's method precisely, it apparently cuts faster. I will modify my method slightly to see if I can get a little faster cut.

If you are using a PCXP, 5.5" pads cut faster than 6.5" pads in my experience. I have not tried SurBufs yet (I just forgot to order them today) but they are supposed to give an PCXP the cut of a rotary with a PC.

If you are new to polishing, RIDs will be more evident when you remove typical swirls. It's hard to miss them against a clear and swirl free background. You may need to decide between leaving some RIDs vs minor wet sanding to remove RIDs/scratches.
 
well... tomorrow i got a lexus to do.. i'm split the hood and do half and half with UC and 105 ... see which i like better/finnishes better ... i'll decide from there i guesss. dont remember wher ei saw it but...somone posted that they spritzed baby oil on the pad and used with 105 and gave them longer work time....but does that lessen the cut on 105? dont remember the post explaining that.


Jay
 
Kurt_s said:
I have not tried SurBufs yet (I just forgot to order them today) but they are supposed to give an PCXP the cut of a rotary with a PC.
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Initially, that's what I thought as well, but that's not necessarily the case. TD got extremely good cut with a rotary only using a white pad and M105 on a heavily swirled black corvette. I tried surbufs on a black corvette and did not get near as good results. Surbufs will still give a lot more cut with a PC than any other pad on the market.
 
350z00m said:
well... tomorrow i got a lexus to do.. i'm split the hood and do half and half with UC and 105 ... see which i like better/finnishes better ... i'll decide from there i guesss. dont remember wher ei saw it but...somone posted that they spritzed baby oil on the pad and used with 105 and gave them longer work time....but does that lessen the cut on 105? dont remember the post explaining that.


Jay
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I think I know which thread you were talking about. Mike Philips chimed in and recommend that you should follow the instructions the way they have it, because they have their own scientist working on the 105/205 for years. I haven't used the combo much but did a few test spots and it removed etching, water spots and swirls. I was amazed at what it can do with a DA.
 
i have both m105 and UC atm but i have only used m105 so far. i will do a 3 step paint correction on my car this weekend and i will give UC a try. i'll report back with my results and opinion on it.
 
When people say 3 step paint correction, what does it mean? Compound, polish, wax?
 
I had struggled with using 105 for more than a year as a mobile detailer and have not played around with it on a DA very much so I haven't found the sweet method via DA and using it with a rotary was a challenge as well until I read a comment by Kevin Brown where he explained his method of pad priming for a rotary and then after working it until it dried up on the panel (about 30 seconds) he said to mist the panel itself with water from a spray bottle, pick up the misted water with the pad as you go back over that panel and it reactivates the polish and it has more bite after being reactivated. I have found a variation of this process that works for me and it cuts 10 times faster than anything else that I have worked with. The pain in the butt thing is that the variables will slightly differ with different paint hardness. It dusts like crazy but over all I was able to cut a lot of time off of each detail and for me that is where I begin to make my money. I have surrendered in the battle of finding a compound that works better for me. Thanks KB!!!
 
slickooz said:
When people say 3 step paint correction, what does it mean? Compound, polish, wax?
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Compound, intermediate polish, finish polish. such as M-105, M-205 and then jewel the paint with something like PO85RD or Optimum Finish.

I have not found a customer that wasn't amazed with a 2 step correction where I have used M-105 followed by M-205 but when working on one of my own cars or a special interest car I sometimes will add that extra jeweling step just to feed my own addiction to the ultimate finish.
 
Thank you Dave. I have a lot of Meguair's pro line stuff. So the #7 Show Car Glaze would be consider the 3rd step?
 
slickooz said:
Thank you Dave. I have a lot of Meguair's pro line stuff. So the #7 Show Car Glaze would be consider the 3rd step?
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The third step of a 3 step correction as I see it, would be more of a nano polish with super fine abrasives. I am not too sure that #7 fits that description. I believe #7 is more of a maintenance product that nourishes paint and fills micro marring. Using something like Optimum Finish will continue to level the paint on a super fine level removing micro marring instead of just filling or glazing over them. I haven't really used #7 enough to know that it won't do the same but I don't think it will.
 
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