d300 vs m105
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maximus20895
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- Apr 13, 2010
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I would say M105 is harder to work with, but is more aggressive.
HotWhipT/A
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- Nov 21, 2011
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M105 is more aggressive. It also dusts a lot more.
Maybe try M105 with a MF pad and medium to heavy pressure with your DA
Maybe try M105 with a MF pad and medium to heavy pressure with your DA
One would have to wonder what you are doing wrong to come up with that statement.
M105 is the best there is for what it was designed for. You just need to know how to use it. Try the KBM and you'll never have the need to try anything else.
Question - why do you want a long working time with a compound. Compounds are meant to remove swirls etc quickly. I don't get it - why would you want to take more passes to remove a swirl or a scratch as against less passes? Defeats the purpose of a compound.
Dusting.. What do you expect with a compound? So now we have all these so called compounds that don't dust as much as M105 - problem is they don't cut either. Examples that come to mind, Optimum Compound and D300. I don't understand the big deal about dusting and compounding. If you are removing heavy swirling etc, then you are going to be washing the vehicle multiple times before you get to jewelling the paint, the dust goes with the washing so who cares about some dust during the compounding stage.
Then again if you use M105 correctly (see my other posts and other's posts) the dusting doesn't really happen if you use M105 correctly.
Cement spots.. - can't say I've ever seen them and I've used gallons of the stuff on all sorts of paints. I hope you realize that M105 is water soluble, therefore all you ever need when wiping the residue is a wet/damp mf. Wash away the residue, don't dry wipe it away. Search my other posts for a more detailed explanation - they explain the M105 (KBM) technique.
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bmwgalore
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Agree with this guy!
Most people who complain about 105 simply don't know how to use it.. you can't use the same techniques from another brands of compound with 105 because it works in a different way.
Meguiars 105 is the best, but most users don't know what they are doing.
DARK HORSE
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- Sep 14, 2009
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:iagree:GREAT post, very accurate!!!
SeaJay's
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M105 can be a pain to work with if you don't know how to use it. As gmck stated it's a great product when used correctly. The dusting can be a pita, but if your washing after the compounding stage then it's no that big of a deal.
D300 is definitely easier to work with but doesn't have as much cut as the 105.
D300 is definitely easier to work with but doesn't have as much cut as the 105.
OP, what pads are you using? What's your technique? You won't get much more aggressive of a compound then M105. Unless you can find M101.
Too often many people get caught up on using a very aggressive compounds when they do not need to. Most cars I do now a days, even the ones with rock hard clears, I can correct down with D300 with the MF pads. Just have to work them slow with moderate to heavy pressures. I only bring out M101 on the heavily swirled areas or small sections I wetsand down.
Too often many people get caught up on using a very aggressive compounds when they do not need to. Most cars I do now a days, even the ones with rock hard clears, I can correct down with D300 with the MF pads. Just have to work them slow with moderate to heavy pressures. I only bring out M101 on the heavily swirled areas or small sections I wetsand down.
If you are trying to use 105 the same way as 205, you will have a lot of trouble on your hands. 105 is meant to have a short working time, and a quick cut. Why anyone would want a long working time with a compound is beyond me. That just tells me they don't know the differences between compounding and polishing.
105 has more cut than D300. D300 is better suited to MF pads, as least for me. 105 can work on anything, and you will get dusting, that's just how it is.
105 has more cut than D300. D300 is better suited to MF pads, as least for me. 105 can work on anything, and you will get dusting, that's just how it is.
Theo_Auto_Fines
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- Apr 26, 2013
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Thus the invention of M101 rectifies all the problems that the M105 had.
BradsDetailing
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- Sep 23, 2012
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can anyone shed some light on m105 and how to use it?
cardaddy
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- Nov 20, 2012
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M105 doesn't really dust, as it doesn't have a long enough working cycle to do so. It may ball up when using it too long, or it may be hard to remove. As the SMAT particles get covered up with paint that is being removed you can end up with larger particles than you started with. That's not dusting, that's paint!
Working with 105 has to be quick and to the point. One smooth section pass and remove it while it's still wet. IF you are LUCKY you'll get 2 section passes, but that's pushing it. Can't do the same thing you would with Ultimate Compound and especially not like a DAT compound that you 'work down'.
Someone mentioned 100, and that's an option. Sometimes its a matter of priming the pad with a compound that works longer, for pad lubricity, then using the short working compound in pea sized drops to do the cutting. IE, prime with 100/101/UC then use 105 drops to get the cutting done. Not sure I'd mix D300 with 105 though as they are drastically different, more so than UC and 105 I'd say.
D151 conditioning crème though is really nice and will work just great. It'll work with foam forever, and does also work with MF pads. (Although my experience with it and MF pads is limited.) Remember that when you work ANYTHING with MF pads that you want to add a point or two to the "cut factor" because the MF pads have so much more cut than foam ones do.
Working with 105 has to be quick and to the point. One smooth section pass and remove it while it's still wet. IF you are LUCKY you'll get 2 section passes, but that's pushing it. Can't do the same thing you would with Ultimate Compound and especially not like a DAT compound that you 'work down'.
Someone mentioned 100, and that's an option. Sometimes its a matter of priming the pad with a compound that works longer, for pad lubricity, then using the short working compound in pea sized drops to do the cutting. IE, prime with 100/101/UC then use 105 drops to get the cutting done. Not sure I'd mix D300 with 105 though as they are drastically different, more so than UC and 105 I'd say.
D151 conditioning crème though is really nice and will work just great. It'll work with foam forever, and does also work with MF pads. (Although my experience with it and MF pads is limited.) Remember that when you work ANYTHING with MF pads that you want to add a point or two to the "cut factor" because the MF pads have so much more cut than foam ones do.
Along with some tips from the hack and TuscaroraDave I was able to use M105 to do this...
...and yes that's true heavy, heavy oxidation. In the middle is 2 series of section passes (was no counting these because the oxidation wouldn't allow for the same number each time), and where the light bulb is; a third series of passes with M105 and wool on a rotary.
Yes...I go the concrete spots everyone hates...I hated it too, but I learned the paint wasn't clean yet. When even the slightest oxidation is finally removed, it'll work crystal clear...until it disappears into the paint with hardly anything to wipe off. Thanks TD!! Plenty of dead paint dust in this pic, but that oxidation has to come off and go somewhere.
I have a lot to learn about compounding and polishing, even more to learn when using M105. I can say though, that from the bottom to the top of this photo it reacted differently in each section...totally different. It went from the 1st series of passes wanting to yank the rotary out of my hand, to the 3rd series of passes and smooth as silk actually. It was a real neat experience and I'm thankfull for such a harsh learnning curve to teach me the different nuances of this product.
By the way...
I used 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound some also, which had a much longer working time than M105, and still got those little 'concrete' spots. So, I came to the conclusion that what causes it is the dirt on the surface of the paint along with dead paint coming off. That may not be right, but that was my thought on it anyway. So it's not just M105 that gets those 'concrete' spots on the paint. Spray some water on either product, or add more product when they ball up and keep working it and my spots went away...as in each product worked until they turned almost clear.
Kevin Cullen
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- May 25, 2012
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When using M105 less is more. 4 pea sized drops to prime the pad and 3 pea sized drops after that. Add in a spritz of quick detailer and just about no dusting.
As Hoytman posted if you are removing oxidation you will get dusting. A person can't expect to remove scale off paint and have the pad retain all of it can they? A vaccum of the shop should be in order before movin on to the next step of the process if you get dusting.
As Hoytman posted if you are removing oxidation you will get dusting. A person can't expect to remove scale off paint and have the pad retain all of it can they? A vaccum of the shop should be in order before movin on to the next step of the process if you get dusting.
panthercz
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- Nov 17, 2010
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Like others have said D300 and M105 are two very different compounds. They both have their place. I'll grab D300 every time over M105 if I can. If the D300 isn't cutting it (pun intended) then I'll use M105. Even when using M105 properly, it isn't exactly forgiving. Just a few seconds can mean the difference between it coming off fairly easily or it being a pain. It will also require a complete wash after use as it's going to get everywhere. It does it's job though, which is remove swirls.
The D300 is less finicky, buffs off very easily and doesn't leave much dust/debris behind, which means you can skip doing a full wash and save time. *BUT* it doesn't cut like M105. So it's all about trade-offs.
I have no experience with M101 or M100 so I can't comment about it, but I would like to try them.
As for the Kevin Brown method, here is a link explaining it: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-brown-method-few-other-things-explained.html
If you Google 'Kevin Brown method' you can find much more info with photos and even some Youtube videos.
The D300 is less finicky, buffs off very easily and doesn't leave much dust/debris behind, which means you can skip doing a full wash and save time. *BUT* it doesn't cut like M105. So it's all about trade-offs.
I have no experience with M101 or M100 so I can't comment about it, but I would like to try them.
As for the Kevin Brown method, here is a link explaining it: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-brown-method-few-other-things-explained.html
If you Google 'Kevin Brown method' you can find much more info with photos and even some Youtube videos.
DARK HORSE
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- Sep 14, 2009
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Did someone say oxidation?............ Got M105?
BradsDetailing
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- Sep 23, 2012
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Correct me if I'm wrong but with m105 you would a section and make one horizontal pass and one vertical and then rub it off?
Any other tips? I'm polishing for the first time and I chose m105
Any other tips? I'm polishing for the first time and I chose m105