DA Polishing Question/Issue Actually Kind of an Annoyance

Chevyguy95

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Morning, Afternoon, or Good evening to you guys,

Nearly two Sundays ago it was a beautiful day in central Jersey and I decided to do the full exterior detail on my truck, as it had not been washed in a couple weeks (or "detailed" since last May) due to my busy college/work schedule. I went through my normal routine as most of us all do and using the proper techniques (I won't mention the wheels because the problem pertains to the paint).

I first rinsed the car off with a standard hose and then sprayed down with Griot's Spray on Car Wash and let it sit for about five minutes to loosen up some of the dirt, salt/sand and grime. After letting it sit for about five minutes, I rinsed with the hose on the "jet" setting (will be purchasing low PSI power washer in spring with those federal tax returns:xyxthumbs:)

After rinsing the car I continued with the two bucket method as I always do. I purchase a brand new Microfiber chenille mitt from AutoZone/AAP, as I do every few months. I always use quality shampoos to wash cars, whether it is mine or someone's car that I am being paid to do. I either used Griot's Car Wash or Meguiar's Ultimate Wash and Wax I wash from top to bottom and rinse the mitt after each panel. After washing the car, I rinsed the car thoroughly and then took off the hose nozzle for the water to flow freely to help water sheet off without leaving water spots, following with a special drying microfiber towel. I then followed with a quick wipe off of the car and windows with Griot's Speed Shine to reduce any chance of water spots drying on the paint. Then proceeded to let the car dry for an hour before hitting the compound stage.

I didn't bother to clay because I had clayed before the winter and there was really no need. I maintain a clean car and nice layer of protection during the year and didn't see a reason to clay bar. I used my 6-inch Griot's DA Polisher to help me with the job. I paired it with an orange foam correcting pad and used Griot's complete compound. I conditioned the pad, set to right speed (5-6) used about 3-4 nickel sized drops and made my 6 passes and divided each into 2x2 sections. I used three pads over the whole car in the compounding stage (college is expensive RIP to checking acct). After finishing the compounding stage and buffing off with microfiber the results looked pretty clear and the depth of paint seemed to be improving although the paint is already in nice shape.

Following the compounding process was polishing. I noticed that there were very tiny/fine swirls in the paint that you could only really notice from very short short distance. I used another orange correcting pads (3 as well) to polish the car, using the right speed (5-6) and paired the pad with Meguiars Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover 2.0. I did my 6 passes for each of my 2x2 sections and buffed with microfiber. Following the polishing of the car I did a proper 50/50 IPA wipedown with microfiber cloth. After doing so the paint still looked great at night.

I finally finished the truck with the Griot's Best of Show Wax and applied it using a red foam pad applicator. I let the wax haze up for about 45 minutes and then used Griot's Spray Wax to help loosen up the wax, and also to boost the shine of the natural carnauba and Sport Red paint. I buffed off the wax and the truck looked PHENOMENAL.

After a few days I noticed a few little swirls had popped up as though the truck had never been compounded/polished... It was kind of annoying because I spent nearly 9 hours on the paint and still couldn't achieve the absolute finish that I was striving for. The truck still looks great, but what can I do to improve this? I wash weekly and always take care of the truck... Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

-Thanks Guys,

Scott
 
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So you did an IPA wiledown, everything looked good, but somehow the swirls have returned before you've even touched the paint since the day of the detail?

45min. for the wax to haze... Was the vehicle sitting outside or inside a garage during that time? Is it possible that something could've settled on top of the drying wax during that 45min. window? Just a thought.


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Another possibility is they were not noticed until 3 days later, do you have a good swirl finding light like this SCANGRIP Sunmatch, swirl finding light ? It really helps find them as I found just as you did after I was done then two days later out of the corner of my eye the the dreaded missed defect hits you hard in the gut. Just when I thought I was perfect at polishing I am reminded I am not.
 
After a few days I noticed a few little swirls had popped up as though the truck had never been compounded/polished...

I wash weekly and always take care of the truck...


Did the swirls showed up before or after washing?
 
You're process sounds right on. But, (and just speaking as a guy who does his own truck with the help of the pros here) I can always find something in "just the right light" that I may have missed.

I chalk it up to this:

A- I"m no pro at this, but I feel great knowing that my paint is protected, if not absolutely perfect.

B-I can and will get better at it.

C- (and maybe the most important) Even though I try my best, and with the great knowledge gleaned from this forum, I'm reserved to the fact that with my DD truck, things will never be "perfect".
 
Anytime I polish or just applying wax I would clay. On the DA the last couple passes I would ease off on the pressure. Just enough to keep the machine flat on the car. Always do a light inspection after the IPA wipe down.
 
I agree with the clay step and lighting. There might have been impeded contaminates that contributed to the marring or swirls. If no lighting, pull it out into the sun periodically. Lastly, the compound might not have been aggressive enough.
 
Hummm....
Sounds like all was done just about right but a couple of things.
You used a "cutting" pad (orange) at the polishing stage? Should've moved on to polishing pads.
Dry wax? That could be another factor. Anytime you rub car, you will scratch the paint. Even just with your finger. To me, any "dry" material will be enough to
re-introuduce scratches.

Possibilities:
1. Didn't clay
2. Dry wax
3. Cutting pads at polishing stage (most likely)

Bet the money is on the fact you used cutting pads at polishing stage.

Tom
 
So you did an IPA wiledown, everything looked good, but somehow the swirls have returned before you've even touched the paint since the day of the detail?

45min. for the wax to haze... Was the vehicle sitting outside or inside a garage during that time? Is it possible that something could've settled on top of the drying wax during that 45min. window? Just a thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm not sure if the swirls were totally polished/compounded out and maybe the light was heading them. The vehicle was outside during the hazing but it wasn't windy or rainy. Not positive if something covered the wax?
 
Another possibility is they were not noticed until 3 days later, do you have a good swirl finding light like this SCANGRIP Sunmatch, swirl finding light ? It really helps find them as I found just as you did after I was done then two days later out of the corner of my eye the the dreaded missed defect hits you hard in the gut. Just when I thought I was perfect at polishing I am reminded I am not.


you're absolutely right, I do use an LED light to find the swirls but unfortunately I can't buy that light right now its kinda expensive for my budget :/
 
You're process sounds right on. But, (and just speaking as a guy who does his own truck with the help of the pros here) I can always find something in "just the right light" that I may have missed.

I chalk it up to this:

A- I"m no pro at this, but I feel great knowing that my paint is protected, if not absolutely perfect.

B-I can and will get better at it.

C- (and maybe the most important) Even though I try my best, and with the great knowledge gleaned from this forum, I'm reserved to the fact that with my DD truck, things will never be "perfect".


Amen man, I love the attitude and that's probably how I'll feel going forward
 
Hummm....
Sounds like all was done just about right but a couple of things.
You used a "cutting" pad (orange) at the polishing stage? Should've moved on to polishing pads.
Dry wax? That could be another factor. Anytime you rub car, you will scratch the paint. Even just with your finger. To me, any "dry" material will be enough to
re-introuduce scratches.

Possibilities:
1. Didn't clay
2. Dry wax
3. Cutting pads at polishing stage (most likely)

Bet the money is on the fact you used cutting pads at polishing stage.

Tom

I clayed before winter and did one section when performing the detail but if you maintain your car you don't have to clay all the time. I used the orange pad for the polishing and Griot's recommends that for polishing. Thanks for your much needed input Tom! I'll try out some CCS pads
 
Anytime you rub car, you will scratch the paint. Even just with your finger. To me, any "dry" material will be enough to
re-introuduce scratches.

This is why I asked if the scratches appeared before or after a maintenance wash. Even if the person is doing everything right, all it takes is a slip up during drying and that's all she wrote. Narrowing the timeline and/sequence definitely helps lessen frustration.

Sometimes even if the techniques are correct, a rogue towel would ruin your day. Soft to the touch, yet enough to deal damage. This is why many preferred 'drying aid' and some like the wet towel method as the fibers are already damp ala build-in drying aid.

There was even a case where the person was having an extremely difficult time during a wipedown stage. After a while he resorted to washing the towel, dried it with FABRIC SOFTENER (!), and soaked in solution in order to wipe the panel clean without marring.

Polishing is fun, but also tricky. Lots of learn.

With that, all these suggestions are just that - suggestions. Noting beats seat time. So many variables come into play, what applies for one vehicle doesn't work for another, even when they're identical make/model/colour. The only way to know what truly works is by trial and error - and takes plenty of notes.

Lastly, it's supposed to be fun. Try not to pull hairs. Take a break, regroup, and chalk it up as learning experience for the next round.
 
Give Griot a call and tell them your story. I would like to know what happened.
 
Chevyguy95,

1) To start off, great post, you provided tons of detail.

2) Like other people have already stated, I see a few flaws in your process.

A) I would have clayed the car, one great way to check if you need to clay is to use a plastic bag over your hand or a latex glove. Sometime you think you don't need to clay but when you use the bag trick you realize you do.

B) It sounds like in the cutting phase you did not remove all the swirls and scratches.

C) you used a cutting pad in the polishing phase.

The good part is all your hard work is not wasted. You can go back and polish out fine swirls.







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I agree. This is a great post and classic case study of processes used and not used to complete a show shine finish.

I've been mulling over this for some time and I'm glad Killerheroin pulled this thread back to the top.
Been thinking and scratching my head trying to explain what happened to you and then a light bulb went off in my mind!

Did you do a test spot?

Without a test spot no one can give you a recommendation or an explanation of what happened because we don't have anything to compare it to.
With a test spot or better yet---a demarcation line clearly established, We now have a point of reference to compare our work against going forward. So if anything changes during the course of your nine hour work---you'll know why! Or a reasonable idea that something has happened in middle of your work.

Base on your post above, There is only one recommendation that I can offer you, Do a test spot!
The story begins and the story ends with your demarcation line.

Shoulda clay? I don't know. Are the pads an issue, I don't know. Etc...Etc...Know what I mean...?

I am glad you've posted your story! An excellent post to review the whys and the processes used as stated by the pros.

Tom
 
And lastly, you said you've clayed before winter. IMO, that's too long. Anytime one going break out the polisher---Always clay. If you were just to wash--that's different.

Only 3 orange pads at compounding stage? Not enough. My understanding one will need at least 6 or even up to eight pads at compounding stage.
With only 3 cutting pads---It probably has too much product which reduces cutting half way through your work and worst yet, probably picked up enough
contaminates along the way since it hasn't been clayed.

All of these are probably reasons why but again, with out a established baseline to work from, all of this is just conjecture.

Tom
 
Using a cutting pad too fast will leave marks. Slow down to like 2 or maybe 3 and take your time. Its not a race and faster does not always mean better. you need to let the product and the pad do the work. Also do not use heavy pressure.

Next more to a white pad and a polish like Sonax Perfect Finish or HD Polish on a white pad. When you are done polishing just lightly remove (do not scrub) the polish that is left over one section at a time.

Don't try and do the whole car / truck with one pad Cut or Polish. Do one panel Correct / Cut then Polish and check your work. If everything looks good go to the next panel. If you do it this way you will see your problems with your technique or the pad on one panel first and have time to correct the process before you have the same problem over the whole car / truck.

Also do not forget to switch out your pads as you should not use just one pad for the whole car or truck. Think about how much stuff gets into any pad cutting / correcting or polishing while doing a car. The Pads will never produce the same results at the end as it did at the beginning if you do not keep it clean or swap it out.

Then wax your car and go a 2 panels at a time. Wax two or three and then go back and without any spray just wipe off the wax without scrubbing the paint.

Save the spay as a quick detailer.
 
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