Deox wash

DanielSwe

DanielSwe

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Friends, when I started polishing 7 years ago my boss said "ONE wash, that's it" when we polished cars. I have memories of trying to remove deox/polish from all kinds of places on the car. Later after going to the internal detailing school, I have been doing deox wash after polishing ever since. The only time I break that rule is when you have an old red car without clear paint.

How do you do if you polish with the rotary machine a couple of times? Deox wash or buff off with something?

Just wondering.
 
Dust2Glory said:
what is Deox wash?
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Washing off the polishes/abrahisives/deoxidizers after polishing with the rotary. You apply tix degreaser on the car, inside the hood and doors if you have polish there, use sponge and schampo to wash right "over" all polish.

After using the high preassure to rinse it off, you dry the car and then wax/use sealants.
 
I dont know about all that, but I like to rewash the car after polish to get rid of dust and such. Then wax or seal.
 
D&D Auto Detailing said:
I dont know about all that, but I like to rewash the car after polish to get rid of dust and such. Then wax or seal.
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Aha, you're doing it. Good to find out there are other people doing this.
 
DanielSwe said:
Aha, you're doing it. Good to find out there are other people doing this.
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Yeah, I dont want my customers leaving with polish dust or residue all over the place. I also make sure there isnt any wax residue anywhere.
 
After polishing, I just buff off any residue after breaking down (Optimum so no dust), and follow up with polishing with Klasse AIO as a cleaner. We have a bunch of trucks, I'm not re-washing any after polishing lol. I've never rewashed any of our vehicles after polishing. Never had issues, and no polish or any residue of any kinda left over. Much quicker then re-washing.
 
XMT and PB SSR's here so dust everywhere!
 
I wash after a polishing also...It ensures all dust..grit and residual oils are off the
paint....and I have a clean surface.....it takes all of 20 minutes tops...wash..blowdry..wipe down....

AL
 
I find that a wipe down of isoporyl alcohol does the same thing, without need for entire wash. Also helps in removing any fillers in polish and verifying polishing actually removed all swirls.
 
oh ok i gotcha.... uh no i don't re-wash the car. never even crossed my mind. I use a true-cut polish, so there are no fillers, dust in minimal and if i have to i would QD the car. much easier. get a air compressor and blow off the dust. and when all is said and done, use QD and MF to run throught the cracks and what not. I recently did a full paint restoration on my Jimmy... 7 steps and compounds and polishes. alot of dust, but when all said and done you couldn't find any on the car at all
 
I don't leave any residue in the gaps anymore as they are all masked with tape, however I do like to do a foam gun and rinse over the car afterwards to get rid of static cling from the rotary and make sure it's all clean prior to applying the base for the sealants or wax
 
Al-53 said:
I wash after a polishing also...It ensures all dust..grit and residual oils are off the
paint....and I have a clean surface.....it takes all of 20 minutes tops...wash..blowdry..wipe down....

AL
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Thanks AL, that's what I hoped for. Good explanation as well on how an additional wash works.
 
Anytime I get done truley polishing a car I always pressure wash it / spray it with a foam gun / shmitt with 2 buckets / then pressure wash it again and dry it before waxing. I find it to be a lot more time effective then taping everything off. (If you use all water based polishes it makes life easier)
 
Good thought. I also wonder how you can get wax down into the paint when you still have polish residues there? That's the main reason why I use tix degreaser, it's for getting rid of the oils from the polishes.
 
Guess this is one of those steps that separates enthusiasts from pros. They may complain about redundant extra steps, but I gladly will do anything that makes a difference and improves the "finished" product.
 
Torsion Tool said:
Guess this is one of those steps that separates enthusiasts from pros. They may complain about redundant extra steps, but I gladly will do anything that makes a difference and improves the "finished" product.
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Like Killr said, if you do a ISO wipedown or buff off and use AIO, its the same thing in my case, we have 6+ vehicles and they come out perfect still, when you have a couple suv's and trucks all the nooks and crannies that will continue to drips are a pain even witha blower. But I also use Optimum which breaks down great and doesn't dust, so all thats left to buff off is a light coating similar to using a glaze. Theres no marring or anything even on black, and AIO or ISO will clean the surface better then a wash.

Dan - I wouldn't continue using degreaser so often on the vehicle, thats a strong product, just use some AIO, or something like DP Exterior Cleaner etc.
 
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Thanks for the comment bro. Back when I started out we tried to use an alcohol to get the oils out of the paint but when I started to wash off the deoxidizers things really started to move. It was heck of a lot easier to wax or put sealant on. Maybe your stuff is better than what I used to use?
 
DanielSwe said:
Thanks for the comment bro. Back when I started out we tried to use an alcohol to get the oils out of the paint but when I started to wash off the deoxidizers things really started to move. It was heck of a lot easier to wax or put sealant on. Maybe your stuff is better than what I used to use?
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DP has a great engine cleaner that is safe on paint, as well as their Exterior Cleaner. But if you buff off the polish, you can go straight to AIO or other paint cleaner w/o rewashing. I've never gotten marring even on black from doing that

If the dust is bad, maybe use a electric blower to blow it off? I use Optimum so no dust.
 
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