Detailing a beater! - 1972 Buick Riviera Boattail - Review: Lake Country Force Hybrid Foam Pads

WRAPT C5Z06 said:
I've tried the new force pads and like them all, except for the grey pad. It's WAY to stiff. Makes the user experience unpleasant with the 3401, IMO.

Car looks much better now.
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That was my experience. The grey pad is stiff as a board. Reminds me if the RUPES UHS pads.

I like the ThinPro grey pads for when you need serious cutting out of 8mm free spinning tools but I'll need to spend some more time with the much thicker grey Force pad to find out it's best use.

Dave Patterson from Lake Country will be here as my VIP Guest Instructor for my May Class and we'll be using the Force pads in this class. So everyone needs to stay tuned for more info. I'm not sure which car we'll be using the FLEX 3401; I have not put together a story board for the cars yet.


Maybe one of these...

Training Cars for the May 2017 Competition Ready Detailing Class here at Autogeek in Stuart, Florida



1958 Dodge Sweptside Pickup KUSTOM

This Kustom truck has a modern 360 V8

1958_Dodge_Swept_Side_001.jpg






1939 Dodge 5-Window Coupe

This hotrod is sporting a big block 440 with dual quads


1937_Dodge_Coupe_001.jpg




:)
 
Mike, were you able to buff those "textured" and "rusted" areas with the HD Speed without leaving (visible) residue on those surfaces? I know everybody raves about HD Speed, but I've never used it and it's hard for me to imagine any polish product not being problematic on those textures.
 
Sweet rides!

I think the grey force pads are even stiffer than the UHS pads because they're less porous.

Anyhow, thanks again Mike for all your hard working teaching the detailing community how it's supposed to be done!
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
I've tried the new force pads and like them all, except for the grey pad. It's WAY to stiff. Makes the user experience unpleasant with the 3401, IMO.
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Agree. I have 3 that are just sitting in my cabinet as I can't stand them. I've moved to MF and Wool for heavy correction needs and to speed through compounding.
 
Great job, cant wait to try the new pads, im sold, they will be on my next order, great article Mike thank you 4 sharing
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Mike, were you able to buff those "textured" and "rusted" areas with the HD Speed without leaving (visible) residue on those surfaces?

I know everybody raves about HD Speed, but I've never used it and it's hard for me to imagine any polish product not being problematic on those textures.
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Yes.

I buffed HARD - as in I punished the paint with the FLEX 3401, the pads and Speed.


Then I wiped off thoroughly, and any texted area I wiped off really good.

She looks good. She's out in the garage till next week so I can monitor the results and check to see if any residue turns white but so far no problemo...



:)
 
pdqgp said:
Agree. I have 3 that are just sitting in my cabinet as I can't stand them. I've moved to MF and Wool for heavy correction needs and to speed through compounding.
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Exactly my thoughts and process. I use the new LC wool pads for compounding with my 3401 and MF cutting pads with my 21mm & 15mm.
 
Mike Phillips said:
Yes.

I buffed HARD - as in I punished the paint with the FLEX 3401, the pads






:)
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Interesting you mention that. At times, I haven't been able to get the cut I want from the 3401. Lately, I've really up'd the pressure and the results are much better. Can't beat the forced rotation for this.
 
Great work as always. So the LC Force Hybrid pads have replaced the older Hybrid pads that work so well on the Flex 3401?

David
 
Mike, can I ask why no #7 soak on this SS paint first? Why right to a polish?
 
dcjredline said:
Mike, can I ask why no #7 soak on this SS paint first? Why right to a polish?
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I need to write an article about your question as it comes up a lot.

The #7 soak is for antique single stage paint that is chalky with oxidation. This paint came in dirty but under the dirt there was still some shine.

The normal protocol would be to apply the #7 AFTER any compounding and polishing and before the wax for paint that is already shiny. You'll see this when I post the write-up for the 1957 Oldsmobile as this was the procedure I used on it.


:)
 
Thank you Mike, for the write up and the follow-up answers to some great questions.

Nice job on this one, too.
 
Mike Phillips said:
Thanks guys... that's what I call a

Mike Phillips "Quicky Job"

:laughing:
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Been there, and done that Mike, in the olden days, when I was 16-17, and cleaning up the "Kahuna's Car". (head gangster of the hood)

The quick waxjob usually turned out to be 6-8 hellish sweat filled hours before I gave the car back. (I didn't want to find myself in the trunk!)

One day, he handed me the keys, a brand new Salmon Metallic Caddy, (which his wife later carved up with a knife and scrolled her name on the hood, "KIKA")

He said, "Check the Oil, Tires, Battery, Transmission Fluid, Washer Fluid, Spare Tire, Radiator, etc", and I asked him as he handed me the keys......

"You want me to rebuild the engine too?" And he said "No. just the Transmission"! LOL (True story)
 
Mike Phillips said:
I need to write an article about your question as it comes up a lot.

The #7 soak is for antique single stage paint that is chalky with oxidation. This paint came in dirty but under the dirt there was still some shine.

The normal protocol would be to apply the #7 AFTER any compounding and polishing and before the wax for paint that is already shiny. You'll see this when I post the write-up for the 1957 Oldsmobile as this was the procedure I used on it.


:)
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Oh, awesome! Thank you.
 
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