Detailing for a non detailed person and some newbie questions

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darkangelism

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I am new to the car detailing world, the way that I used to wash cars would probably make you cringe, hand washed with sponges and dawn, would put sponges on the ground, wouldnt dry the car after. Then I started using automatic car washes when I started living in an apartment.

My current car is 18 months old and has only been washed 3 times, twice by automatic car wash and never polished or waxed. So I finally realized I was doing something wrong and started learning about how to detail.

My problem is that I am not a detail oriented person and I worry that I won't end up doing it correctly still. Are there any tips or tricks to break up the job into smaller sections so that I don't miss anything?

I am planning on doing a multistep detail the first time.

Foam->rinse->clean tires->2 bucket wash->rinse->clay->rinse->polish->wax

Also should I hand polish or go straight to a DA orbital?
 
You really need a buffer. To do it right. You can certainly do it by hand, but your results will be about 60 to 70% what you could get with a buffer. It certainly is worth it. Just stop eating out for a month and buy a buffer. The griots garage 6 is the one to have, green pad...from lake county here.

I detail, but I believe in the detailing quickly. I don't want to waste time spending all weekend doing something, so for all my daily drivers and new cars that are in good shape, this is very, very easy for me ...see below

Daily driver detail
1. Clay with ONR lube
2. Blackfire Total Polish and Seal on an orbital with green CCS pad- this leaves almost no haze
3. Remove with BF poly spray or just buff off by hand
4. Blackfire crystal seal or BF Wet Diamond! Crystal seal fastest, no buff at all
5. Blackfire spray wax or poly spray after weekly washes

Done , BF spreads so easily it's a treat to work with.
 
Thanks, yeah I was looking at the griots garage 6, as I liked the handle position better than the PC. Are the lake county pads that much better than the griots ones?
 
darkangelism said:
I am new to the car detailing world, the way that I used to wash cars would probably make you cringe, hand washed with sponges and dawn, would put sponges on the ground, wouldnt dry the car after. Then I started using automatic car washes when I started living in an apartment.

My current car is 18 months old and has only been washed 3 times, twice by automatic car wash and never polished or waxed. So I finally realized I was doing something wrong and started learning about how to detail.

My problem is that I am not a detail oriented person and I worry that I won't end up doing it correctly still. Are there any tips or tricks to break up the job into smaller sections so that I don't miss anything?

I am planning on doing a multistep detail the first time.

Foam->rinse->clean tires->2 bucket wash->rinse->clay->rinse->polish->wax

Also should I hand polish or go straight to a DA orbital?
Click to expand...
I highly recommend that you look through Articles/videos by Mike Phillips

regarding DA handle position: I believe this is also discussed above - many people remove the handle entirely. Personally, I don't use a handle on my 3401 or 7424.

Pads are a matter of taste. Many use 5.5" LC HT because it is limited to 3 pads and they work quite well. Also note that I said 5.5" which also means compatible back plate
 
I think the Meguiars 5" Micro Fiber system will do wonders for you without much risks..

Do a couple of cars with that system and if you think you like this new hobby, then you dig deeper trying other products and stuff. But at first the kit WILL fix almost everything paint related...

As for trim, wheels and brushes/towels, I'd say look around, there is a lot of articles here.
 
thanks, yeah I have watched a lot of the videos on here but I will read the articles as well.

I think I am more worried about missing spots and it not all being an even level of shine, I have a metallic paint that makes it hard to see defects, but they are there, my paint is probably in good condition based on Mike's rating scale.
 
You have a start to skip the auto car washes.
Steps for maintaining a car with my product choice
Clean rims and tires mother all wheel and tire cleaner
Wash meguiars gold class
dry absorber towel
clay Meguiars,Mothers,etc
dry microfiber
sealent-if desired
wax. IBIZ, Meguiars number 26

The reason why rims are first its due to the fact that if you get overspray on your paint, you could wash it off.

There is no DA or orbital, A Da spins at random, so it does not cause more swirls, all an orbital can do is apply wax and remove wax. I think the best combo here would be the meguiars da correction system, only if your car has not been repainted. I would go for the Ultimate compound if it has
 
darkangelism said:
thanks, yeah I have watched a lot of the videos on here but I will read the articles as well.

I think I am more worried about missing spots and it not all being an even level of shine, I have a metallic paint that makes it hard to see defects, but they are there, my paint is probably in good condition based on Mike's rating scale.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's why the DA MF kit comes in handy, it's basically fool proof.

Too keep track of what you're doing, simply buy several rools of Blue Painters Tape and divide the area into several 16"x16" work areas... This way you won't get lost.
Do a good IPA wipedown to check results before moving on to the next section. And clean the pads after every section as well.

No more stuff on the ground! Get a milk crate or a small cart.
 
Bill1234 said:
You have a start to skip the auto car washes.
Steps for maintaining a car with my product choice
Clean rims and tires mother all wheel and tire cleaner
Wash meguiars gold class
dry absorber towel
clay Meguiars,Mothers,etc
dry microfiber
sealent-if desired
wax. IBIZ, Meguiars number 26

I think the best combo here would be the meguiars da correction system, only if your car has not been repainted. I would go for the Ultimate compound if it has
Click to expand...

It is original paint, only a year old car, so I am hopefully starting early enough before it is too far gone.

Yeah no more auto washes, i have a house and garage now so I can work out of the sun, that was my big problem before, oklahoma sun is harsh and I had no place to work out of the sun. Now i can wash in the morning and move into the garage for the rest and no direct sunlight.
 
I'm a detailing newbee also and, like you, have always been a "non-detailed" person. I would run the car through the car wash the spring and wash the winter dirt off of it. That was about it.

Now that I'm "old", I bought myself a rather expensive car for my 60th birthday (Mercedes C300) and either out of a feeling of guilt or a sense of stewardship, I find that I have a need to care for this car.

So I've been studying and trying these great new products. It felt great last saturday to sit on the garage floor, listen to classic rock, and wax my new car. I felt like I was 17 again! The difference is back in the 60's about all we had was a simonize cleaner/wax which you couldn't rub off worth a damn. I used P21S on my car today. What a dream to use!

I would also like to know what others think about when to start claying and polishing a new paint. You said that yours is a year old.
Would it need claying after a year? or just perhaps a polish?
So far, I've just used the wolfgang sealant and then the wax.
 
The age of the car (1 day or 10 years) is unrelated to claying.

You ironx and clay the pain to remove dirt.. A brand new car sitting at the dealer is already full of dirt particles because the way that C300 was shipped to the US.

Most noobs think their car doens't require too much attention because "it's just 3 months old", well IT DOES! The only diference is that you can get away with a very mild clay and minimal polishing (like Menzerna on a black pad) to get excelllent results.
 
oldgeek said:
I'm a detailing newbee also and, like you, have always been a "non-detailed" person. I would run the car through the car wash the spring and wash the winter dirt off of it. That was about it.

Now that I'm "old", I bought myself a rather expensive car for my 60th birthday (Mercedes C300) and either out of a feeling of guilt or a sense of stewardship, I find that I have a need to care for this car.

So I've been studying and trying these great new products. It felt great last saturday to sit on the garage floor, listen to classic rock, and wax my new car. I felt like I was 17 again! The difference is back in the 60's about all we had was a simonize cleaner/wax which you couldn't rub off worth a damn. I used P21S on my car today. What a dream to use!

I would also like to know what others think about when to start claying and polishing a new paint. You said that yours is a year old.
Would it need claying after a year? or just perhaps a polish?
So far, I've just used the wolfgang sealant and then the wax.
Click to expand...

Yeah my car needs claying and that seems like an easy step. I will post before and after pictures
 
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Remember that I am rather anti-detail but still want to keep a nice looking car. I've resolved myself to the fact that I can handle
wash > sealant > wax a few times a year but wash > clay > polish > sealant > wax seems like a hell of a lot of work to me. The clay process looks time consuming in particular.

SO... I guess my question is how dirty should you let the paint surface get to get the most bang out of your buck for the time you spend claying?
 
Claying is worth it. You remember how smooth you could get the paint with a cleaner wax in days gone by? Well the new paints don't work the same. Today if you go from wash to wax the paint may be shiny but it will not feel smooth at all. If you really want to scare yourself try the plastic bag test.

Claying is not difficult and doesn't take too much time. And it will give your paint a much smoother feel because the paint is clean. If it is a matter of time, do the clay and then use a spray seal like crystal seal or opti-seal they go on really quick.
 
Claying doesn't take much time at all, and is probably the most important step you can perform. Plus, if you keep the car kept up, at least you can clasy 1/2 times a year, depending on your environment where you live, at a minimum....! :) Either way enjoy it, I have monster style ADHD and I can focus and bang this stuff out, you'll learn to love it. Throw on your iPod or whatever listen to some good music, your favorite show and enjoy it! Then bask in the shiny glory that is your ride!!!:dblthumb2::cruisin:
 
oldgeek said:
Remember that I am rather anti-detail but still want to keep a nice looking car. I've resolved myself to the fact that I can handle
wash > sealant > wax a few times a year but wash > clay > polish > sealant > wax seems like a hell of a lot of work to me. The clay process looks time consuming in particular.

SO... I guess my question is how dirty should you let the paint surface get to get the most bang out of your buck for the time you spend claying?
Click to expand...

Claying without the IronX first is gonna take you 1:30 hours.
If you IronX first, the claying is going to take you 10 minutes tops.

You don't have to clay, polish, wax or do whatever really, most people don't care anyway. But waxing the car without the prep work won't do. People on AGO don't have this "good enough" mentality.
 
bmwgalore said:
You don't have to clay, polish, wax or do whatever really, most people don't care anyway. But waxing the car without the prep work won't do. People on AGO don't have this "good enough" mentality.
Click to expand...

Yeah that is the problem with us not being detail oriented, good enough is in my vocabulary
 
I think the more one gets interested in detailing, the more obsessed one gets with it. Now, I'm just amazed at how nice my car looks with sealant and wax. (Remember, I used to run my old car through the automatic wash maybe once or twice a year.) Its all relative.
 
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