DFB's Garage

Ranger Wiper Trim Restoration

Nothing ages a car more than faded black plastic trim. While certain areas are easy to deal with, say the wing mirrors or bumper inserts, others are harder to do properly. As such, these areas tend to get neglected and therefore show age sooner. Sitting at the top of this category would be the trim at the base of the windscreen, mainly because the bonnet and wiper arms block full access.

So, after 9 years on the road, it’s time for the Ranger to receive some attention in this department. Now, this job could certainly be done with the trim still fitted to the car. However, to clean and treat the windscreen trim properly, I find its best to remove it from the vehicle.

Trim Removal –

The PX-Series Ranger has a two-piece lower windscreen and wiper arm trim. To remove, first the wiper arms need to be removed. With the rubber caps popped out, remove the 13mm nut from the wiper arm.



Now, you would think it would be a case of simply lifting the wiper arm from the motor shaft……………nope. The arms were effectively fused to the shaft after being on there for 9-years, which actually delayed this project by three days while I waited for a small puller to arrive. When I did the same thing on the XR6, I don’t seem to remember having this problem. Anyway, the puller arms are placed under the wiper, you then wind down on the bolt and draw the wiper from the shaft.





Wiper arms removed, they were set aside for treatment later on.

Next, the removal of nine plastic rivets, aided by a removal tool.............why didn't I buy one of these years ago?



I was going to replace these rivets as two of them were quite badly faded. Different to most automotive trim hardware, I found they aren't an off the shelf item, strange considering the number of Ranger's on the road now. I tracked down the correct replacements at a few online retailers, but................................please tell me why these tiny little plastic rivets cost about $6.00 each? Absolutely ridiculous, for context that same spend buys you a 100 zinc plated timber screws. So, I decided to retore rather than replace.



Before lifting up the two trim pieces, you need to first remove the single piece rubber seal.



Each side of the trim is then gently prised upwards, the glass side will then pop out of the locating channel. There are then two side pieces that are clipped into the quarter panels, which gently levered up and away, more on these shortly.





While not terrible, you can see discoloration on the surfaces most exposed to sunlight. Actually, its hard to properly show this on camera.

Cleaning –

With everything removed it was time to get cleaning. This step is vital in ensuring the success of the end result.

Using a brush and KCx Green Star APC, each trim piece was cleaned and rinsed thoroughly.



Below are the smaller side trims that bridge the gap between the windscreen, quarter panel and the larger trims. These have a flexible rubber section that folds away as the hood is raised/lowered. Both Ranger's in my care have faded badly in this area due to sun exposure.



To finish the prep work, I used undiluted IPA to wipe down each piece, including the rubber seal and plastic rivets.





Trim Restoration -

There are many ways of restoring a fresh finish on black plastic trim.

Plastic & Vinyl Dressings - The quickest and easiest method, think water based products such as Carpro Perl or 303 Protectant. These will only last a couple of weeks at best, less if it rains or you wash the car.

Ceramic Coatings - In the past, I've used dedicated trim coatings such as Carpro DLUX, and even regular coatings such as ADS Quartz and Gyeon Can Coat. These will last the longest, but after a lot of research, I've moved away from this method.

Spray Sealants - These sit in the middle of the two above, offering an easy application and longer lasting results. I absolutely love Carpro Reload for this, but most ceramic spray sealants will work in a similar manner. However, these are best used to maintain trim rather than restore a moderate to heavy fading.

Trim Dye - A product such as Solution Finish restores faded plastic to a factory finish. I'm also keen to try Armour Detail Supply's new combined dye and ceramic coating, which is yet to hit the market but looks like the perfect solution.

Ultimately, I went with Solution Finish. I've used this multiple times in the past and really like how forgiving it is to use and the look of the finished result. It's termed a "semi-permanent" product that can last up to and beyond 12-months. Considering my vehicle use patterns, I should get plenty more than that.



Application is simple, just shake the bottle very well, then apply a small amount to a microfiber applicator and work it over the surface. I did try one of the new Detail Factory foam brushes, which was designed with Solution Finish in mind, but a microfiber applicator works best. After thoroughly massaging the product into the plastic, leave it to absorb for 5-minutes and lightly buff away any residue. Choose you towel wisely as you won't be using it again after this. TRC Rip-n-Rag's are your friend here.



Each piece of trim was treated, as well as the rivet heads and rubber seal.

To be continued...............................
 
Cowl Cleaning -

While I let the Solution Finish cure, I directed attention to the areas hidden by all this trim. Considering the age of the car, I was expecting more..................





To clean these areas, I used both Green Star, ONR and more Rip-n-Rag's. Hidden by the trim, the base of the glass had a build-up of mineral content, so I hand polished this using a towel and Clarity Creme. While I had this all apart, I went ahead and applied fish oil to a few key areas.





Wiper Arms & Blades –

The wiper arms had some mild oxidation, so after removing the blades, I polished them using Rupes DA Fine on a towel. This cleaned them up very nicely, the following application of Gyeon Can Coat had them looking like new!





I had also decided to replace the wiper arms while I was at it. Earlier in the week, I picked up a set of OEM wiper arms from the local Ford dealer.



Over The Top -

One could say all of the above is "over the top".....................and you would be correct. However, Over The Top is actually a product, a sealant that is applied after letting Solution Finish cure. Applied using a foam sponge, this helps protect and prolong your hard work. Not a necessity, but I had it on hand and though I may as well use it.



Finished and ready to go back on the car.





Reinstallation –

Time to put everything back together. First, the two large cowl trims. Just don't do what I did by putting the left-hand side on first, there are two tabs on the right-hand piece that need to slide under the left side. I have to say, the way the trim snaps back into place is a vastly better design compared to what Ford used on the FG Falcon..............as in it clicks back into place without an assortment of rude words.



The two outer trims are then clipped back in place and the nine rivets reinstalled, followed by the rubber seal. From here, the wiper arms are put back in place and the nut torqued down to 25 Nm.



I then installed two new rubber gromets to cover the wiper arm nuts. I actually bought them for Dad's Wildtrak as these gromets are prone to going awol, especially when using a pressure washer around this area. However, I decided to nick them for myself, he can have my old ones. While packaged as Mazda items, they are the same part.





A quick test of the wipers, the windscreen was cleaned and the job complete.

Finished Result -

All four trim pieces are available from Ford............... at a price. The two large trim pieces will set you back between $255 - $287 for the pair, the two small trims are $35 each, so $325 - $357 all up. Considering I already had the Solution Finish, Can Coat, Rupes DA Fine and IPA from previous projects, the only items I specifically bought were the rubber gromets for $10 and the wiper arm puller for $17. And a few 0.70c towels.





I need to do the same thing to the Wildtrak at some point, but I'm thinking of waiting until the new ADS trim product arrives.
 
I would want Michelin PS4S again, although some have suggested I look at Continental SportContact 7. There is now the Pilot Sport S5 but they are an extra $100 over the older spec.
Continental owns Michelin IIRC, GREAT tires, less expensive and I'm pretty sure has a smooth sidewall like the DWS06+ does (that matters to people like us too)

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I mean look at this tire, even looks like a Michelin, not quite the smooth sidewall like the DWS06 has but your not even considering those anyways

I've been a Continental fan for about 15 years now
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I mean look at this tire, even looks like a Michelin, not quite the smooth sidewall like the DWS06 has but your not even considering those anyways

I've been a Continental fan for about 15 years now
069ced82afc973b283f628e402c885e1.jpg


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I'm a big fan of Continental too, I had them on my White Berlina wagon, I put the on my Mum's Qashqai, and I'm considering General Grabbers for the FJ next time. General is Continental's off road tyre brand.
 
I'm a big fan of Continental too, I had them on my White Berlina wagon, I put the on my Mum's Qashqai, and I'm considering General Grabbers for the FJ next time. General is Continental's off road tyre brand.
General makes very good tires for perf cars, my buddy has all-season perf Generals on his FiST and loves them, I considered their RS model for my own car, I've got like 3 different tires on deck, good thing i don't need them till Sept

Sorry to hi-jack your thread a bit Deyon, let me grace you with these pics:

4a2be98df0ded1b9c974cd7fbda9a03f.jpg
c593eb3bd888402e435a34983d2cf2be.jpg
694671d624e16ef778e04616d077f911.jpg
8d789262878217e8fcf7ecd1ace9750a.jpg


Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 

Deyon, maybe check out these RS tires

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 
Continental owns Michelin IIRC, GREAT tires, less expensive and I'm pretty sure has a smooth sidewall like the DWS06+ does (that matters to people like us too)

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
I can assure you that Continental most definitely does not own Michelin. :ROFLMAO:
 

Deyon, maybe check out these RS tires

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Not sold in Australia.
 
General makes very good tires for perf cars, my buddy has all-season perf Generals on his FiST and loves them, I considered their RS model for my own car, I've got like 3 different tires on deck, good thing i don't need them till Sept

Sorry to hi-jack your thread a bit Deyon, let me grace you with these pics:

4a2be98df0ded1b9c974cd7fbda9a03f.jpg
c593eb3bd888402e435a34983d2cf2be.jpg
694671d624e16ef778e04616d077f911.jpg
8d789262878217e8fcf7ecd1ace9750a.jpg


Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Hi-jack away, I don't mind at all.
 
A day off today, and after a week of grey sky's, it was nice to be out in the sunshine. The Ranger was filthy after a damp mowing run this week, so it was first in line for treatment.

Wheels, tyres and arches were cleaned using foamed Brake Buster. In the foam cannon today, Shine Supply Shift, used for a pre-soak and the contact wash. Drying Aid was KCx Quick & Shine. For the tray and door jambs, OPT Car Wax, an odd choice but surprisingly good!



The interior was wiped down with the coconut scented Ethos Interior Detailer. For the glass, I once again selected Trace-less in an attempt to better understand how to use it correctly. The wheels then got wiped down with Amplify and the tyres dressed with OG TD. Finally, a quick wipe over for the engine bay using ECH20.
 
Today I managed to get rid of the Ranger's old steel wheels, which meant a trip to the storage shed. Didn't get much for them, but they are hardly desirable for anything other than to use on a trailer. Anyway, good riddance.



While I was there, I thought I'd get the Jaaaaaag out for a run, give it a quick rinse-less wash, then take it back. That was the plan.

After giving the tyres a quick scrub with Brake Buster, I rinsed the car down, then got on with the rinse-less wash, a perfect opportunity to try a new product that arrived yesterday, Labocosmetica Idrosave.





After mixing it at the recommended 200:1 on the label, I went ahead with my usual rinse-less routine by pre-soaking the whole vehicle, then working section to section, then dry the whole car at the end. Everything was going well until I went to dry the car.................... a complete disaster! :eek:

Normally, if a polymer rinse-less wash happens to dry on the surface, it creates a polymer spot that is easily removed once you start drying. Well, not here. On all of the horizontal surfaces, and the majority the verticals too, the paint was covered in water spot etchings that would not budge. I tried re-wiping with the product, then immediately drying. No dice. I then got out Carpro Eraser, nope. At this stage I'm in a combined state of disbelief, rage and panic. There was no escaping it, the car would need to be polished. FU.KING HELL! 🤬

So, I grabbed the Rupes, Carpro Essence and a ShineMate orange foam polishing pad and did two quick passes on a section of the hood. Thankfully, the spots were very easily removed. So, I then went around the WHOLE car, and the glass too. Essence is a very mild polish, so that combined with the Si02 element, the underlying Gyeon Pure EVO should be still intact. I did however follow with ADS CSS.

If there was an upshot, the car at least looked resplendent after its unplanned and rushed panic-mode polish.







Now, before I start sending death threats to Labocosmetica, let me explain what happened here.

I used Idrosave as I would any other of the other eleven different rinse-less wash products I have tried. Surely it was the products fault. Well, I went and read the online product description, which I quickly figured out it was in fact user error on my part. Something was mentioned several times.......................

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Spray the solution onto a section of the car to soften the dirt. Treat one panel at a time."

"Allow to act for a maximum of 2 minutes and never let the product dry on the panel."

"Treat one panel at a time."

"Note:
Never let the product dry on the surface to avoid streaking."

"Warnings:
Never let the product dry on the surface, as the high concentration of nano sealants can cause marks that are difficult to remove."


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On five separate occasions, they mention to not let this product dry on the surface. So, yep, I screwed up.

My defence is thus -

- I've used other polymer rinse-less wash products in the exact same way that do NOT act like this.

- Yes, I should have read the product listing before use.....................but how many experienced detailers do that when using something very basic like a soap or rinse-less wash?

- Idrosave is labeled as pH neutral, so I treated it like any other pH neutral soap or chemical.

- It wasn't hot today, so I didn't feel the need to rush or break the car up into sections.

- I also noticed that Idrosave seemed to evaporate quick quickly.

Even though I was at fault, Idrosave is not a product I can recommend. If it was slicker and better performing than key rivals, then perhaps I would revise my method to prevent what happened today. Sadly, I didn't feel that and would say ADS Hero, Gyeon EcoWash, P&S Absolute and Opti-Coat No Rinse are all slicker.............................and clearly more forgiving to use.

Frankly, I'm apprehensive of using the two other Labocosmetica products I bought. I guess I've found my new bin cleaners. :rolleyes:

Somehow, I don't think they would be interested in the feedback I'd give on this product............................ :ROFLMAO:

 
Somehow, I don't think they would be interested in the feedback I'd give on this product............................ :ROFLMAO:

You could put an honest review up to warn about the different process required to use it successfully, and how you went about fixing your issue.

But I get why you wouldn't, when I had a bad experience with Gyeon Wetcoat I didn't put a bad review up, or contact the supplier, I just stopped using it, and actually haven't really used any Gyeon products since then, even though I'm sure most of it is perfectly fine to use.
 
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You could put an honest review up to warn about the different process required to use it successfully, and how you went about fixing your issue.

But I get why you wouldn't, when I had a bad experience with Gyeon Wetcoat I didn't put a bad review up, or contact the supplier, I just stopped using it, and actually haven't really used any Gyeon products since then, even though I'm sure most of it is perfectly fine to use.

It's a delicate situation, I'll leave it at that. :unsure:
 
Tool Cleaning Day………………………………

Surprise, surprise, I like clean tools. Considering my line of work, that isn’t always possible, so it ends up being an occasional attempt. It doesn’t help when someone returns a borrowed tool in dirty condition……………………....................:mad:

Kranzle K1152 –

This was actually on the to-do list waaaay back in September last year. Someone borrowed my beloved pressure washer without asking, then returned it covered in mud…………..and no apology. That same person also borrowed my new MS271 chainsaw, then returned it filthy and covered in sap. Anyway, the day I was going to return the pressure washer to DFB-spec, my Dad decided he would borrow it as well……………………………. I only got it back on Monday, 9-months later! My neighbour once told me that “you can lend your wife, but not your chainsaw”. Not a very PC thing to say these days, but the notion of not lending good tools I can certainly appreciate, thus I don’t recommend lending your $2000 pressure washer or near-new chainsaw.







Ironically, the best way to clean a pressure washer is..............with another pressure washer. But first, the hose was dragged all the way out, then Brake Buster applied to it and the machine itself. A little light agitation with a soft brush, then everything was rinsed. Following that, some Hydr02 to assist with drying, then Shine Supply Decked Out to add some lustre to the plastics.

I feel so much better now! :cool:







Husqvarna 522L -

I bought this trimmer back in November 2018, and I have to say, it’s been one of the most reliable pieces of machinery I’ve ever owned. At the time, it was the first non-Stihl branded tool I had bought, so a leap of faith on my part. And it was a leap that’s paid off.



And over the 6.5-years it’s been in service, I’ve done very little to it. Service items include 1 air filter, 1 fuel filter, and 1 spark plug. The OE-fit cutting head was replaced by a Speed feed head, which had its bump cap replaced last year. The muffler spark arrestor has been removed and inspected probably three times, but this thing burns so clean that I’ve never needed to clean it. And finally, regular greasing of the gearbox. Other than that, I’ve not had it break down or require repair.

Out of curiosity, I recently yanked the muffler off to inspect the bore and piston, both look almost new. Other than the initial fill from the dealer when I bought it, this unit has been run exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra. Just a word of warning, when shopping, there are two "HP" oils. The regular red HP is mineral based, and despite claims otherwise, I've found this stuff plugs up exhaust screens and exhaust ports in no time. The HP Ultra is fully synthetic and a murky green/brown colour.



Being a fully synthetic 2-stroke oil, it's said to burn cleaner, which means less carbon deposits both inside and out of the engine. The lack of carbon keeps the muffler screen and exhaust port cleaner for longer, which means less maintenance and more performance. Stihl also suggests HP Ultra can clean the piston, crankcase and cylinder of engines ran on mineral based oil and fuel mixes. I have seen where it did indeed lightly remove carbon from an older engine, but it's probably better to start using it from the beginning of the engine's life. It's expensive, but that is balanced by reduced maintenance and longer machine life. There is a certain subset who don't like this oil, some even calling it muddy-water-fuel. But as far as I'm concerned, the proof is in the pudding.

I'm very much a numbers man, so this is a basic run down of what the 522L has cost me over the years, excluding fuel.

Purchase Price 2018 - $424.00 (in 2025, these retail for $679!!)
Air Filter – $19.50 (Filter and pre-filter)
Fuel Filter – $17.95 (OEM)
NGK BPMR8Y Spark Plug – $7.95
Speed Feed Head – $59.95
Head Bump Cap - $25.00
Grease - $3.00 (approx.)

TOTAL: $557.35 (AUD)

Considering the number of lawns it has been used on over the last 7 years, that total is miniscule. In addition to its reliability, I specifically love how light this machine is compared to every other straight-shaft trimmer on the market, just 4.2 kg where most start at 5.0 kg. The 522L also has an excellent anti-vibration system that cured the jitters I would get from previous trimmers. In both cases, I'd happily pay a premium for those benefits.

Anyway, I was looking at the 522 the other day and thought it was about time to remove the years' worth of grime that had accumulated.



Another thing to admire with the 522L is how the majority of the exterior components can be removed independently. This is especially noticed on the starter, which can be removed for service via three T27's and without other pieces needing to come off the machine.









Each piece was pre-soaked with Surfex HD at 1:1, then scrubbed in the parts washer, which has Surfex mixed at 4:1. The exception being the starter, which in an attempt to avoid oversaturating the recoil parts, I used compressed air first to remove the bulk of the grime. After each piece was scrubbed, I rinsed using clean water and applied Meg's Hyper Dressing.



From there, I used compressed air, Surfex and the pressure washer to clean the engine assembly, shaft, gearbox and debris guard. The air filer on a trimmer never really need attention due to how the engine operates above the dust zone, so I just gave them a quick blow out.

It was then time to reassemble.........................







Back to spec! Here's hoping I get another 7-years out of it. 🤞
 
The XR8 was let out of captivity on the weekend, and boy did she love the crisp winter air! In such conditions, this is a car that you need to hand on for dear life, especially when you have full traction and the torque limiting is unleased from third gear onward. I’ll let you figure out the what the speedo registers when at full throttle in third gear. And before anyone says that’s reckless, I’m out on a deserted road, no one was hurt, and no one but me would be hurt if something happened.

Of course, the side benefit of having the car out…………………………. I get to wash it!

The wheels were cleaned with Reset, tyres with Brake Buster. I then rinsed the whole car thoroughly before moving back into the garage for a rinse-less wash. Product of choice, Opti-Coat No Rinse. I keep forgetting how good this product is, if you like a slick feel during and after, look no further.



Originally, this product was only available from Opti-Coat installers as part of an exclusive maintenance range. In addition to the lack of availability, it carries a premium price tag and only comes in 473ml / 16-oz bottles. So, it's clearly not for everyone, but it's just as slick and easy to use as some of the current segment favorites, including ADS Hero and Gyeon EcoWash.

As you can see, I carried the Optimum/Opti-Coat theme going. The Gloss Enhancer was lightly used as a drying aid, less is more with that product. While Opti-No-Rinse is brilliantly slick on its own, I wanted to see how the two products played together. The excellent Glass Clean and Protect finished off the exterior glass.





Some Clean Maker went on the wheels, the tyres got a layer of OG Tire Dressing. Back to DFB spec, the XR8 was moved back into its spot and covered up for another day.
 
The XR8 was let out of captivity on the weekend, and boy did she love the crisp winter air! In such conditions, this is a car that you need to hand on for dear life, especially when you have full traction and the torque limiting is unleased from third gear onward. I’ll let you figure out the what the speedo registers when at full throttle in third gear. And before anyone says that’s reckless, I’m out on a deserted road, no one was hurt, and no one but me would be hurt if something happened.

Of course, the side benefit of having the car out…………………………. I get to wash it!

The wheels were cleaned with Reset, tyres with Brake Buster. I then rinsed the whole car thoroughly before moving back into the garage for a rinse-less wash. Product of choice, Opti-Coat No Rinse. I keep forgetting how good this product is, if you like a slick feel during and after, look no further.



Originally, this product was only available from Opti-Coat installers as part of an exclusive maintenance range. In addition to the lack of availability, it carries a premium price tag and only comes in 473ml / 16-oz bottles. So, it's clearly not for everyone, but it's just as slick and easy to use as some of the current segment favorites, including ADS Hero and Gyeon EcoWash.

As you can see, I carried the Optimum/Opti-Coat theme going. The Gloss Enhancer was lightly used as a drying aid, less is more with that product. While Opti-No-Rinse is brilliantly slick on its own, I wanted to see how the two products played together. The excellent Glass Clean and Protect finished off the exterior glass.





Some Clean Maker went on the wheels, the tyres got a layer of OG Tire Dressing. Back to DFB spec, the XR8 was moved back into its spot and covered up for another day.
😍 My favourite car in the fleet, Why? Supercharged V8 🤌
 
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