DFB's Garage

The little square mtm foam cannon mounting plate looks to be amazing build quality.

Unfortunately it is $80 US…..


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I'm assuming this is the one you are reffering to................





It's made from thick stainless steel and does command a price premium, $75.95 AUD.

But looking at the MTM website, I see its priced at $34.99 for the US market -
Veloci Ventuno Bracket - MTM Hydro

It's main difference is the integrated wall mounting bracket.




Maxshine make a painted steel version that is much thinner and lacks the wall mounting aspect.






 
No that one is $35 US. I’m talking about the one from perfect detail.


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No that one is $35 US. I’m talking about the one from perfect detail.


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Ahh, sorry.

In that case, you are paying for the Mosmatic quick connect, which are much more expensive than MTM or unbranded versions. Then the labor and other materials.

The second option I sent you, this is the video that goes with it, skip to 3.30min -

 
Where did you find the plates?


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Amazon.com

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This guy.

I hadn’t seen that imjoshv video DFB posted until right before I was going to bed; from the looks of the video preview he found a basic plumbing piece that I bet is even cheaper.

That aluminum one above could be good though because you could polish it if you wanted to. Also, with the ports on multiple sides you could either wall mount it (use the fitting that’s on top in the picture above) or mount it to the underside of the top of a cart (using the fitting that’s on the left side of the picture above).
 
I primarily use Hansen couplers/plugs. Commercial stuff

On the wall plate, which does look -neat-, how is ease of removing if after the coupler has attached the plug to it just due to angle of approach ?

50% I struggle with removing the dang device off the PW hose, as the collar/balls open the couple just engage. Maybe I need to run a small bead of lube to balls - sticky balls, now that I am typing this
 
I'm going to go hunt at West Marine for a SS plate. I'm guessing that's the best place to find the one like Perfect Detail.
 
I primarily use Hansen couplers/plugs. Commercial stuff

On the wall plate, which does look -neat-, how is ease of removing if after the coupler has attached the plug to it just due to angle of approach ?

50% I struggle with removing the dang device off the PW hose, as the collar/balls open the couple just engage. Maybe I need to run a small bead of lube to balls - sticky balls, now that I am typing this

It's easier than you would expect. Because the plug is in a fixed position, you just push the plug towards the wall and lift away from the wall. I thought it might be cumbersome but ended up being very ergonomic.
 
Hi DFB,
Excuse me if I missed a post. I was hoping to get the thread size on the 1/4 inch coupler port?
 
With the exception of the VC Mustang, all mowers in the lineup are expected to make me some money along the way.



What a lovely mower. I've never really liked the saying "they don't make them like they used to", mainly because I'm a big lover of the new or latest and greatest, but that saying is true here. I would say this thing performs as well, if not better than some of the newer machines in my collection.

The deck design and huge rear chute mean cutting and catching is brilliantly efficient, and the engine has so much torque that it just pulls through with minimal intrusion from the governor. While it doesn't smoke, like all older Briggs, you can smell the oil in the exhaust. I also love how light it is, perfect for winter mowing.
 
Hi DFB,
Excuse me if I missed a post. I was hoping to get the thread size on the 1/4 inch coupler port?

I'm assuming you mean the threads on a male 1/4 plug, which is typically found fitted to nozzles, wands and foam cannons to connect onto a 1/4 gun outlet?



 
This is easily the oldest mower in my collection, a 1970's Victa VC Mustang. This is what my grandfather called his "motor-mower", always set to the lowest setting and virtually never ran at anything more than half throttle. As a kid, I loved this thing, I guess I still do.



In the late 90's, he finally decided to retire it from use and replaced it with a 4-stroke Rover, but I get the feeling he preferred his old Victa. Pa gave me that old Victa, which I have had running a few times over the years but it's sat idle for most of those 25 years.

With my latest run of mower resurrections, I wanted to focus some attention on the old Victa. It was running the last time I had it out several years ago, but would it today?

First, a little history on this era of Victa. With a 16-inch alloy deck and powered by 125 and 160cc "full crank" 2-stroke engines, these machines were very long lasting. They had a two-piece crankcase, a separate cylinder barrel and a flat cylinder head. The full crankshaft permitted a top mounted flywheel.







After 1984, those full crank engines were replaced by a simpler "half-crank" Power Torque engine. These were only made in 160cc form and had a single piece cast iron cylinder and crankcase capped with a flat alloy cylinder head. The flywheel was bottom mounted, and the top of the crankcase was capped with a plastic starter cup and sealed with a rubber o-ring. I feel these engines are a bit rougher running, but no less durable. Presumably, the Power Torque was quicker and cheaper to manufacture.







My VC Mustang is a later model, fitted with a plastic G4 carby rather than the metal G3. Earlier examples with the G4 didn't have a primer at all, later models like mine had a remote primer. The later generation of G4 LM carbs had an integrated primer and were used right up until they stopped making 2-stroke engines in the mid 2010's.

My first step was to clean the poor thing. P&S Brake Buster for the body and the excellent Bilt Hamber Surfex HD for the oily bits.



Removing the cowling proved difficult due to the rusted screws, but I persevered and got there in the end. I actually replaced them from some new ones I had in stock. Note the fuel cap must be removed as well.



With the mower clean, I spritzed some Carpro Hydr02 on, rinsed and then dried off with the EGO. The cowling was temporarily reattached with just a single screw just in case I needed to go back in. The air filter was not up to scratch so was replaced with a new one I had in stock.

It was then time for the moment of truth, would it start? As expected, the tank was bone dry, so some fresh 25:1 was added, the primer push and to my amazement, still worked. I selected the cold start position on the throttle. One full, two pulls, three pulls and it spluttered to life.............just. Initially, I thought it just needed to clear its throat, but it just wouldn't rev at all. Again, I thought I would just let it chug away and see where that would lead, to no effect.

I pulled the plug and it was clearly getting fuel, so as a hunch, I took off the cowling and removed the muffler, which is held on by a clip and through bolt.



The exhaust port was fine, save for the cactus gasket. I then got out a flat bladed screwdriver and started poking into the muffler outlet, which is routed downwards into the deck and not accessible on the machine. What came out of the muffler sort of confirmed what I was thinking........................50 years worth of carbon!



With as much carbon removed as possible, I opened up the outlet with the screwdriver and reinstalled the muffler and tired again......................


(Sorry about the video formatting, I just couldn't get it right).

So, the muffler was preventing the engine from breathing. As you can hear, it idles and runs hard! It's noisy, it's smoky............. I wouldn't have it any other way!

Idle speed -



Full throttle -



It cleaned up ok.................









I'm conflicted with this mower. I would love to return it to showroom condition, but I would never use it again, and that makes me sad. So, at this stage, I'm going to fix a few things that I can deal with: a replacement fuel cap with the integrated fuel gauge, a new spark plug boot, a new muffler, some replacement stickers, a replacement orange hub cap for the rear wheel and hopefully a catcher in better condition. Some of that I have already found, the hub cap and catcher are proving difficult.

But it is running. And I can't begin to express how happy that makes me feel.
 
As a follow up to yesterday, I spent several hours shopping last night for the VC Mustang. I'm not sure what I find more satisfying, the thrill of the chase hunting for parts, or the satisfaction of seeing and hearing my efforts come to life.

The decals on that mower are (were) pretty good, however in the final rinse the BP ZOOM sticker let go, soooo close to saving it! When I removed the cowling, I also found the lost fuel tap diagram. And the engine designation sticker is pretty degraded. Trawling the internet, I found someone reproducing period correct decals for old Victa's, in some cases they are not completely word-for-word correct, but good enough for me.

In this case, I have ordered a 25:1 Mix BP Zoom 25 (B), Cold Start Primer (E), Fuel Tap On/Off (H) and the Mark 4 decal (E).

https://www.ebay.com.au/str/vintagemowerdecals?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563







When I replace the engine decal, I'm thinking I will paint the recoil/flywheel cover black while I'm at it.

Meanwhile, how good does BP ZOOM sound! I'm old enough to remember when petrol stations sold pre-mixed 2-stroke fuel from a barrel. In Pa's case
, he would take in his matching Victa fuel tin, the operator would fill it up and charge per liter like any other fuel offered on the forecourt. That was happening right up until the early 2000's in my area.

Last week, I just happened to stumble upon a replacement fuel cap that came with a catcher full indicator "eye", but apparently that sold several months ago and wasn't removed from sale. :doh I have since found another fuel cap, but not the indicator. As such, I'm still on the lookout for a suitable replacement catcher, and an orange hub cap. Let me know if you see one.





These fuel caps had a sort of dipstick/level indicator. The one from mine snapped off 20+ years ago.



Also on the order list were some specific parts from Push Mower Repair, the main item being an aftermarket muffler, muffler clips and gasket. Additionally, a new sparkplug and plug boot, fuel lines and tap, a cut-out switch and cover as well as a new earth lead and pins.

The fuel lines don't leak, likewise the tap, but they are hard and brittle so it's only a matter of time, so this was proactive rather than reactive. The plug boot is in nasty condition, so a natural inclusion, and the cut-out switch is not functioning, which I think is the frayed earth lead.

https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/

The rust on the chrome handlebars is also annoying me, not sure what my options are there. Do I just sand them back, prime with rust converter and repaint with a chrome paint? Other than that, I don't really know, so I would be grateful for comment on that.
 
Last week, my old Kranzle K1152 got a big workout cleaning the concrete paths at work. Sometimes, it's just easier to use your own tools rather than battle on using old or poor condition tools provided by the employer. Plus, it keeps me productive and makes my job more enjoyable. In this case, I sidelined the aftermarket Mosmatic gun and wand for the Kranzle OE items, which helps deliver more pressure for the job in question.

Last time I did this it was with my old Karcher K2, needless to say the Kranzle smashed it out in a fraction of the time.



After having it running for long, extended periods, I thought I should probably do an oil change. I just now discovered that it was last changed in December 2022, but these are an expensive machine, so while it might seem overkill, oil is cheap.



I have detailed this procedure a few times now, the hardest part is manhandling the heavy (35 kg) beast into a suitable position to allow the oil to drain from below. The old oil was still nice and golden, meaning all is well, a grey colour to the oil indicates the seals are starting to fail and allowing water to enter the oil chamber. And while the manual states the refill capacity is 250ml, I've found that it needs a small amount more to register on the dipstick.

I was going to sell the 1152 to a colleague, after his machine was destroyed by another employee. Turns out pressure washers don't like running without the water turned on, funny that! :doh But, I think I'm going to keep it around. These have only gotten more expensive since I bought mine, and with it still in great condition, I'll keep it as a backup and for use in my own business.

Following that, I washed the Ranger......................in the rain. :lol
 
I thought you might like this, there was a link in this article about how you'd build your own Mustang. This was mine, Mustang GT Premium with the 10 speed auto, 3.55 LSD, and the Brembo brakes. Bronze appearance package with Over the Top Opacity Racing Stripes and the Carmine Red interior. Just over $56k in USD.
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I thought you might like this, there was a link in this article about how you'd build your own Mustang. This was mine, Mustang GT Premium with the 10 speed auto, 3.55 LSD, and the Brembo brakes. Bronze appearance package with Over the Top Opacity Racing Stripes and the Carmine Red interior. Just over $56k in USD.
95ae129069335249904a7ccc4649d263.jpg
f7481229d4f7548787e013affe4cce37.jpg


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I'd do it couple of ways.............

GT Premium 401A with the Performance Pack, 10-speed, Atlas Blue, red brake calipers, Emberglo interior, active exhaust, Mangeride.







GT Premium 401A with the Performance Pack, 10-speed, Race Red, Nite Pony Package, red brake calipers, Carmine Red interior, active exhaust, Mangeride.






Maybe one day Ford will build it?
 
I'd do it couple of ways.............

GT Premium 401A with the Performance Pack, 10-speed, Atlas Blue, red brake calipers, Emberglo interior, active exhaust, Mangeride.







GT Premium 401A with the Performance Pack, 10-speed, Race Red, Nite Pony Package, red brake calipers, Carmine Red interior, active exhaust, Mangeride.






Maybe one day Ford will build it?
Deyon...the first one EXACTLY like that! The picture shows exactly why on intricate wheels silver is better than dark colored ones...IMHO

No stripes Deyon

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Deyon...the first one EXACTLY like that! The picture shows exactly why on intricate wheels silver is better than dark colored ones...IMHO

No stripes Deyon

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Not really into stripes, at least not the ones Ford are offering on S650.

That's not to say Mustang's don't look awesome with stripes, but I also think the purity of the Mustang design lends itself to being without stripes.
 
Agreed, no strips. I usually like whatever Ford puts on GT500's, Mach's, etc. I think the S550 and S650's body lines look better w/o stripes. I could never get one configured under $60k :laughing: I'm still holding out hope that I'll find a 2020 -2022 used Mach 1 with the 10 spd that doesn't blow up my bank account lol. I'm probably going to start looking in 2024.
 
Agreed, no strips. I usually like whatever Ford puts on GT500's, Mach's, etc. I think the S550 and S650's body lines look better w/o stripes. I could never get one configured under $60k :laughing: I'm still holding out hope that I'll find a 2020 -2022 used Mach 1 with the 10 spd that doesn't blow up my bank account lol. I'm probably going to start looking in 2024.

I typically like stripes if they are part of the "package" if you will. So a Mach 1, the stripes are integral to the car. Or the Ford GT..............or Falcon GT.................



When Ford brought back the Falcon GT in 2002, they chose not to include stripes. Well, that didn't last long as the owners groups got cranky and Ford relented. Stripes and FPV GT's went hand in hand from then on. Some of the color carbonatizations were a natural pairing, others were wild!















One of my favorites, Octane with black.........











This one was modeled on the BOSS 302 Mustang..........and its was WILD in person. Many chose the more tame versions.............









The last Falcon GT's...............



THE LAST Falcon GT ever...........



The last Falcon EVER................



So, yes, I like stripes if they are part of a theme. The Mustang in recent generations has been so well designed that it just didn't need stripes to stand out.

I just wish I had been more financially stable to have been able to buy a new Falcon GT during those glory years. Octane with black would have been top of my wish list, or Vixen Red with white. Or Sensation Blue with Silver.
 
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