Do I REALLY need Iron X?
- Thread starter Toxix
- Start date
c8n
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- Mar 4, 2013
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Thank you!
drvnbysound
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- Jul 13, 2013
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I thought I remembered reading about this in Mike's book, so I grabbed my iPad and did a quick search of the book. I found the following:
This was found in the section dedicated to using an IronX product or similar; p. 30
I also recall reading about [but couldn't find the graphic that I thought I remembered seeing], which showed how an above surface bonded contaminant could be sheared off during the claying process, leaving behind a bonded contaminant embedded in the paint, but level with the surface.
That said, here is the standard graphic showing the various surface contaminants:
This was found in the section dedicated to using an IronX product or similar; p. 30
I also recall reading about [but couldn't find the graphic that I thought I remembered seeing], which showed how an above surface bonded contaminant could be sheared off during the claying process, leaving behind a bonded contaminant embedded in the paint, but level with the surface.
That said, here is the standard graphic showing the various surface contaminants:
lawrenceSA
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- Feb 7, 2012
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My understanding is that claying will only shear off a portion of the iron contamination that is protruding from above the level of the paint.
It cannot 'pull out' any contamination that is IN the paint, so by using a product like iron-x, you are able to remove ALL of the iron contamination.
Furthermore, I also believe the especially iron contamination, which generally comes from hot brake dust, will sinter into the paint, and thus create a conduit for other corrosive elements to enter the semi-permeable structure of the paint, leading to a possible earlier failing of the
As such, I will always decontaminate by doing tar removal, iron removal then claying the remainder of the contaminants off, when doing a detail.
And then add into the equation that by chemically removing the iron prior to claying, you do not land up loading up your clay bar with hard iron particles that could be dragged over the paint, leading to damage - this obviously extends the life of the clay too
It cannot 'pull out' any contamination that is IN the paint, so by using a product like iron-x, you are able to remove ALL of the iron contamination.
Furthermore, I also believe the especially iron contamination, which generally comes from hot brake dust, will sinter into the paint, and thus create a conduit for other corrosive elements to enter the semi-permeable structure of the paint, leading to a possible earlier failing of the
As such, I will always decontaminate by doing tar removal, iron removal then claying the remainder of the contaminants off, when doing a detail.
And then add into the equation that by chemically removing the iron prior to claying, you do not land up loading up your clay bar with hard iron particles that could be dragged over the paint, leading to damage - this obviously extends the life of the clay too
The Critic
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- Dec 16, 2009
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Nope.
For wheel cleaner, nothing beats Meguiars Wheel Brightener from a price to performance standpoint.
I have clayed and Nanoskin cars before iron-x. Even though you may not see the iron contamination, its possible for it to still be there. I've had many cars bleed, after claybar.
I do think its a vital step to a flawless finish. You might be surprised how much there is on your vehicle. I certainly was!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
I do think its a vital step to a flawless finish. You might be surprised how much there is on your vehicle. I certainly was!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online