Do you believe a vehicle can be too dirty for a waterless / rinse less / quick detail wash etc

When my truck gets a little mud behind the tires etc. I just pressure wash the whole truck then use ONR. I pretty much always pressure was before using ONR though . You don't use much water and being my truck is black, anything I can take off before using a MF to touch the paint is a plus.


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We are an 80% waterless company, YES and NO are the answers to this question. We are in the South and get a few mudding trucks here and there and while they are a pain to work on, we can get them nicely detailed using waterless methods. With that said, there is MUCH precaution and it is much more time consuming and much less profitable - but it can be done. A pressure washer would be the best tool for this job - but waterless with caution is doable - rare situation for us though.
 
I only do rinseless or waterless washes on classics. 2bm and rinsing allows water to reach deep into non waterproof areas and has the potential to start rust or fuel current rust, especially around areas where panels are attached. Also most classics are not fully waterproof and water can get into the interior or in extreme cases mess with decades old electronics.

Other than that 2bm all the way.

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Xplosive Detail said:
First, it depends what "dirty" means to you. To ME, and this will not be the same for you or everyone else, "dirty" means anything that is caked on. IF dirt is beyond the point that I believe I cannot remove it with one gently wipe of waterless wash I wont use it. It takes tens of hours to properly polish a car, I wont risk that to save 30 mins.

What I will do is, spray down the vehicle with some waterless wash and then pressure wash the car, then follow with a application of waterless wash again and dry with detail spray.

This is how I use the following, again you and everyone will be different.

Detail spray - To DETAIL, or freshen up a "clean" vehicle.

Waterless wash - Dust, very mild soiling from everyday usage, smudges, bird bombs etc.

Rinseless wash - slightly more soiled then the above, but only with a pre spray of waterless, I never rinseless wash with out spraying down the section with waterless first.

2 Bucket - any kind of baked or caked on dirt, if you can still see the dirt after you sprayed it with waterless, (ex. when you spray down light dirt it looks like its just wet,) i'm giving it a 2 bucket wash.
Click to expand...


my definition of dirty or level of contamination is pretty much summed up by the chart linked in this thread:
washsolution2.jpg



As I stated for the topic of the thread there is a limit to any product, however it doesnt mean it still cant be used when the pre steps are done..for example in specific heavy contaminated instances. Using the example of caked on dirt, although I do this anyway just as a form of habit and since my car is exposed to the elements 365 days a year, I usually pre soak panels, especially bird bombs (since I dont want that floating/ contaminating my buckets which I do 2BM all the time) using a spray bottle with ONR at normal ratio to loosen bird bombs,etc in normal instances or when really heavy/caked on dirt, salt, etc a small garden sprayer bottle with a little higher ratio if I feel the need to, otherwise normal ratio. Then I rinse/hose off the car which gets loosened debris off. Then I proceed with a ONR rinseless wash, dry, followed up by their QD for final wipe
 
Yea, here in the salt belt, I would not feel safe doing waterless wash on salted cars. That stuff gets everywhere. Anybody who has done mechanical work on a salt belt car can testify.

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