Drysanding?

nitrovette

nitrovette

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Talked to a guy here in Jax about removing the orange peel from my paint, he said he drysands instead of wetsanding.How good is this over wet sanding?
 
nitrovette said:
Talked to a guy here in Jax about removing the orange peel from my paint, he said he drysands instead of wetsanding.How good is this over wet sanding?
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I've been out of this for a while but......

I suppose one could dry sand although I never have. The reason water's used during wet sanding is it acts as a lubricant so the paper won't stick to the paint and it flushes the sandpaper so the cut remains.

You might want a second opinion.....
 
i wouldnt do it specially since you have black and it shows if you make a mistake or not specially since the water prevents burning from what ive been told and i wouldnt sand my car period and thats black too. GORGEOUS machine btw (the blk gnx or grand national)
 
fabiolas4 said:
i wouldnt do it specially since you have black and it shows if you make a mistake or not specially since the water prevents burning from what ive been told and i wouldnt sand my car period and thats black too. GORGEOUS machine btw (the blk gnx or grand national)
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ill drysand rids. easier clean up, no water in any crevices. your statement about "burning" doesnt apply to sanding just rotary polishing.
 
seriously? i figured sanding without water would kill the clear, what i thought was burning it.
 
If he is properly trained then I would be ok with it. If he is the guy I referred you to then hell yes. The guy that trained him is the jedi master (Renny Doyle).

But, I fully understand your hesitation. Definitely get a second opinion if you are uneasy.
 
Ok everyone had it dry sanded and it looks great , started out with 1500 then worked it to 3000 then he buffed out and sealed the paint and it look real good. He removed all the orange peel out of the paint plus sealed the car to boot. Then cleaned every thing up for me can't say enough about the job Bill did.
 
nitrovette said:
Ok everyone had it dry sanded and it looks great , started out with 1500 then worked it to 3000 then he buffed out and sealed the paint and it look real good. He removed all the orange peel out of the paint plus sealed the car to boot. Then cleaned every thing up for me can't say enough about the job Bill did.
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:postpics:
 
Interesting. I never really thought anyone would WANT to dry sand over wet sand, ha. It just sounds like a dusty, friction causing mess to me.
 
Dry sanding is the way to go IF you've been professionally trained. Not for the faint hearted. After being trained AND learning about the proper products and tecniques, this is best way to go. IMO. BUT, you still have to follow up with some very fine wetsanding and buffing to finish it out.
 
Midnight1700 said:
Dry sanding is the way to go IF you've been professionally trained. Not for the faint hearted. After being trained AND learning about the proper products and tecniques, this is best way to go. IMO. BUT, you still have to follow up with some very fine wetsanding and buffing to finish it out.
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Why exactly is that? I'm just curious as to what the benefits are to dry sanding over wet sanding. I picture being able to see the scratches and other imperfections easier, versus wet sanding and having to wipe and let the surface dry before your progress is exposed. Is that why they do it?
 
Kristopher1129 said:
Why exactly is that? I'm just curious as to what the benefits are to dry sanding over wet sanding. I picture being able to see the scratches and other imperfections easier, versus wet sanding and having to wipe and let the surface dry before your progress is exposed. Is that why they do it?
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I'm no expert, but from what I understand you actually lose less clear doing the drysand
 
With damp and dry sanding you are going to cut faster so you remove less material and are possibly polishing with the slurry. Before seeing techniques on damp sanding I would damp sand(nearly dry sand), by hand, smaller defects with lower grits to remove them faster. I saw Renny's demo on his site awhile back and IIRC he uses different sanding papers with his techniques; even better than Meg's paper. I don't have the teaching/education to explain, but, what little I have messed with and researched it just makes sense to me. I guess it can best me explained it more common terms along the lines of why you would traditionally wet sand defects out of paint, instead of go at 'em with a rotary and compound.:)
 
Most body shops I have worked in and hot rod shops I have been around will recommend wet sanding over dry sanding... for a higher gloss in the end. Again, this conversation could go on for days but this is what I have seen.
 
14automobiles said:
Most body shops I have worked in and hot rod shops I have been around will recommend wet sanding over dry sanding... for a higher gloss in the end. Again, this conversation could go on for days but this is what I have seen.
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Dry sanding is usually done during the initial scratch/orange peel correction process. During this phase of correction, you'll usually dry sand up to 1500 grit (this may vary) then follow up with 2000-3000 wet sand. Once sanding process is complete, finish with compounding/polishing/jeweling and so on, for the best possible finish.
 
Midnight1700 said:
Dry sanding is usually done during the initial scratch/orange peel correction process. During this phase of correction, you'll usually dry sand up to 1500 grit (this may vary) then follow up with 2000-3000 wet sand. Once sanding process is complete, finish with compounding/polishing/jeweling and so on, for the best possible finish.
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Ok??? Not sure why you replied to my quote??? I was making a statement about the original start of the thread...which was about dry sanding or wet sanding....did you read the start of the thread? what was your point you were trying to make?
 
14automobiles said:
Ok??? Not sure why you replied to my quote??? I was making a statement about the original start of the thread...which was about dry sanding or wet sanding....did you read the start of the thread? what was your point you were trying to make?
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The purpose of the reply was to point out it really doesn't matter whether you start out dry sanding or wet sanding to obtain a great finish. Starting with dry sanding is prefered by highend detailers for the fact you can see what is being done. Your work is not "Hidden" by the slurry of the wet sanding process during the critical process of removing the scratches/orange peel. Starting off dry is quicker than wet and the end results are the same.
 
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