DuraGloss #111 clearcoat polish....thoughts

I have some small clear plastic flip top plastic bottles that I squirted 501 or 105 till 3/4 full then used the squirt bottle that has the Aqua Wax and just squirted in on top of the 501/105 until the bottle was filled to the neck line which allows about 1/2" air gap and shook like he**. The Aqua Wax mixed right in. The bottles I used come from Zaino when you order ZFX.

Dave

I use the same ones Dave, so you mix AW w/your polish-sealant from DG, interesting, have to try this. It should spread even easier since its got 25% pure liquid in it, thanks for the tip, love this thread:props:
 
I'm a little confused still. I'm gonna do ladies car this weekend using 501/601 and then putting 105/601. Am I wasting my time if one takes off the other. Seems like that is the application du jor.
 
I'm a little confused still. I'm gonna do ladies car this weekend using 501/601 and then putting 105/601. Am I wasting my time if one takes off the other. Seems like that is the application du jor.

Not at all! 105 will definitely not remove the 501. The combo is stellar. I've been doing this for several years now, initially, on the recommendation of Jerry at Duragloss. (He is the one who creates the formulae...he should know!!!)
 
I am starting to believe that the combination use of Duragloss products is directly related to the condition of the vehicle's paint. I think that is their intent although they don't really come out and say it that way. 501, for example, is formulated to provide a pretty thorough cleaning, primarily for marine application, but has proven itself as an outstanding AIO for autos because it has good cleaning ability and provides protection. I would use this if the car was not well maintained or simply needed more cleaning as a one step product. 105 has less cleaning ability but does have a little. It is primarily a sealant and lasts a long time. I would use this on a moderately to well maintained vehicle. I really don't know why it would be used over 501. 111 has no cleaning ability as it is a pure sealant and should be used in combination (sort of as a topper) for either 501 or 105 or, if the car is brand new, by itself with the bonding agent mixed in.

My car is new and the paint is in great shape. I have used 601/105 topped with AquaWax and it looks great (It is a new Mercedes M series SUV in Diamond White). Next time I will try 601/111 topped with AquaWax because I have heard 111 looks even better with white paint. I am anxious to see what the difference will be between the 105 and 111 as to appearance and protection.
 
Check this thread out...

Sign-up - Honda Extreme Makeover with Duragloss!

The paint is completely flat and dull
CoralsHonda002.jpg



Duragloss Extreme Makeover
Since a polished surface will hold up and last longer in the elements than a textured surface I'm going to machine polish this paint to restore a clear, glossy smooth surface and then coat it with something.

For this project I'll be using the new Ultra Microfiber pads by Lake Country. For chemicals we're going to use products from Duragloss.

Duragloss Products
DuraglossExtremeMakover001.jpg



:)
 
Check this thread out...

Sign-up - Honda Extreme Makeover with Duragloss!

The paint is completely flat and dull
CoralsHonda002.jpg



Duragloss Extreme Makeover
Since a polished surface will hold up and last longer in the elements than a textured surface I'm going to machine polish this paint to restore a clear, glossy smooth surface and then coat it with something.

For this project I'll be using the new Ultra Microfiber pads by Lake Country. For chemicals we're going to use products from Duragloss.

Duragloss Products
DuraglossExtremeMakover001.jpg



:)
Nice collection. Maybe one of the nice people in the warehouse can hook you up with some DG #601 to add to your collection of tools.:props:
 
I used #101 and then #111 and you could spray AW ontop of the #111 to remove and also add to the protection, but where would you use #105/501 in the process? I think our positive comments about DG has gotten Mike's attention as he's using them on that Honda!
 
I used #101 and then #111 and you could spray AW ontop of the #111 to remove and also add to the protection, but where would you use #105/501 in the process? I think our positive comments about DG has gotten Mike's attention as he's using them on that Honda!

Have you tried using AW as your final wipe? That's what I do. Your advantage to spraying on the AW on the cured 111 is what, that it removes more easily? I have never tried that.
 
Have you tried using AW as your final wipe? That's what I do. Your advantage to spraying on the AW on the cured 111 is what, that it removes more easily? I have never tried that.

I really don't do it to make removing #111 easier, I mean its already VERY easy but rather to do a combo of removal and application. Do you think I'm not getting the full effects of AW doing it like this? I have applied AW afterwards but it was usually the next day or something, not right after, only ontop of the #111.
 
I really don't do it to make removing #111 easier, I mean its already VERY easy but rather to do a combo of removal and application. Do you think I'm not getting the full effects of AW doing it like this? I have applied AW afterwards but it was usually the next day or something, not right after, only ontop of the #111.

Gosh, now that's a hard question to answer. You know, the next time you're doing a job like that, if you think of it, split the hood and do a 50/50 and see if you notice any difference. I find AW, like 105 and the other DG sealants, looks better the next day. You might be losing a bit of its ability, but even if you were, I would guess it would be so minimal. AW is so strong, you can put it on a wet panel and it still does its job...can you tell I'm thinking while I type...so now that I ponder it, I've changed my answer. No, I don't think it would minimize the results at all and if it saves time, even better!
 
Well, I did try this to "kill 2 birds with 1 stone" and all this talk about AW made me go out and layer a coat on the CR-Z before work, LOL.

Your right about the next day comments too, nothing I've ever used has that reaction, just another thing that makes DG so unique.

Kinda ironic that Mike is using DG on that Civic pretty soon too, can't to see what he actually uses and in what order. Does any of the DG products really have the cutting ability of say Meg's UC?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Well, I did try this to "kill 2 birds with 1 stone" and all this talk about AW made me go out and layer a coat on the CR-Z before work, LOL.

Your right about the next day comments too, nothing I've ever used has that reaction, just another thing that makes DG so unique.

Kinda ironic that Mike is using DG on that Civic pretty soon too, can't to see what he actually uses and in what order. Does any of the DG products really have the cutting ability of say Meg's UC?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

I've never used any of their compounds. I have been such a devout M105/205 user, that's pretty much all I use.
 
I was going to get the M105 but when I read how well UC worked compared to M105 I tried it and haven't looked back. Never really understood the need to follow up with another polish afterwards though....hmmm. I know people do but with what I've worked on everything comes out great.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
I was going to get the M105 but when I read how well UC worked compared to M105 I tried it and haven't looked back. Never really understood the need to follow up with another polish afterwards though....hmmm. I know people do but with what I've worked on everything comes out great.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

It's funny you say that b/c whenever I use 105, it finishes down so well that I think to myself "Hmm, how much better can 205 do?" Then I am always, and I mean always, blown away by how much better it becomes. I've only gone over that with 85rd a very few times.
 
So because 205 is finer does it add more clarity to the finish then? I believe what your saying and when I got my GG RO originally the guy at GG told me that when I used their #2 I would wanna follow up with #3 to make it perfect. I know this, spending 7 hrs on an S2K and only polishing w/ Meg's UC would really add to my time for sure, not that I mind but on a silver car especially I really wonder if it would look any different in reality.

I'm going to end up with a secondary polish to use after Meg's UC, any suggestions? Oh and btw, I'm glad our thread has been able to get to this point too, really learning a lot here, thanks.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
It's funny you say that b/c whenever I use 105, it finishes down so well that I think to myself "Hmm, how much better can 205 do?" Then I am always, and I mean always, blown away by how much better it becomes. I've only gone over that with 85rd a very few times.
:iagree:I haven't seen any improvement using P085rd after M205 with a DA. I have just recently gotten better results finishing off M205 with 3M Perfect It Ultrafine Polish on a blue LC waffle pad using a Dewalt 849X rotary polisher at 1500rpm using the weight of the polisher.

IMG_0152thb.JPG


I topped this after this shot was taken with two coats of DG #105/601
 
:iagree:I haven't seen any improvement using P085rd after M205 with a DA. I have just recently gotten better results finishing off M205 with 3M Perfect It Ultrafine Polish on a blue LC waffle pad using a Dewalt 849X rotary polisher at 1500rpm using the weight of the polisher.

IMG_0152thb.JPG


I topped this after this shot was taken with two coats of DG #105/601

Mileage must really stink carrying that house around.

Dave
 
So because 205 is finer does it add more clarity to the finish then?

Yes but keep in mind that usually when you move on to a finer or less aggressive polish that you also move on to a less aggressive polishing pad and a less aggressive "technique" for apply the less aggressive polish with the less aggressive pad.

Thus polishing paint is an art form not merely a step 1, step 2, step 3 grinding process.

Each of us bring to the table the human elements of car and passion, caring about what we're doing and a passion for excellence.

That's why I always say polishing paint is an art form. Sure it's a craft too, but a hack detailer can perform a craft while a professional perfects the craft.

The Mindset of a Professional Detailer



I'm going to end up with a secondary polish to use after Meg's UC, any suggestions? Oh and btw, I'm glad our thread has been able to get to this point too, really learning a lot here, thanks.


Pretty hard to beat Optimum or Menzerna for your final polishes or jewelling polishes. M205 is very good but I've seen micro-marring with it on softer paints when applied with a DA Polisher and I've removed the micro-marring using Menzerna and Optimum polishes.


:)
 
I hear what your saying about changing pads with a finer polish Mike but why does GG only offer their one orange pad for polishing and then offer 4 different machine polishes?
 
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