I've personally never used this system so I can't really comment on from first hand experience. I've seen it used by a very experienced and trusted pro detailer and in the example that we used it on I didn't see any benefit but I don't think it was the right product for the job as we we're working on an oxidized, single stage paint.
I haven't read up on the ABC system for a year or so but my guess is that it's a product designed to clean fleets of cars that become contaminated in transit from the manufacturing location to the dealerships and all the stops in-between.
I've seen cars that have traveled across the ocean on large ships that have water spots and all kinds of air-borne contaminants and pollution bonded to the exterior and it could be this contamination system is best suited for these type of applications.
As far as bonded contaminants go a multiple step chemical bath or stripping process would probably remove a majority of the contaminants off the surface as long as the type of bond these contaminant have is within the scope of the chemicals being used to remove them. What that range would be I don't know but I'm sure the Finish Kare people do and a phone call or some research on their website should address this topic.
Water Spots
I posted the below on Autopia recently so instead of retyping what I've already written I'm just going to copy and paste it here,
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Years ago I wrote an article for MOL and just arbitrarily gave the two different types of water spots names as I needed a way to discuss them and differentiate them from one another. I don't know if there some other term previously used in the professional industry to differentiate mineral deposits from water spot etchings? If there is then I've never read or heard about it and feel free correct me and also to use those terms or make up your own.
Here's how I described them,
Type I Water Spots are mineral deposits sitting
on top of the surface.
Type II Water Spots are actually holes or etchings that are
in the paint.
Type I Water Spots, or mineral deposits bonded to the surface can be removed using detailing clay while Type II Water Spots, or etchings which are below the surface must be removed using a compound or polish because you have to remove a little paint surrounding the etching to level the surface.
Before washing
After washing
After claying
Most of the water spots in these pictures were mineral deposits on the paint and glass of this Lexus I buffed out but in a few sections the water had actually etched into the paint so we removed them by machine buffing.
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IF you're working on paint with Type II Water Spots then the only way to remove the spots will be to level the surface and by this I mean you're going to have to remove a little paint surrounding the etchings or craters in the paint till the surface is uniformly level.
This would be the job of a compound or paint cleaner, something that's abrasive, not a car wash or decontamination system unless the car wash or decontamination system has the ability to remove paint in a controlled manner.
If you have Type II Water Spots, from a horizontal point of view they are going to look like this,
So I'm not sure how a washing system is going to remove the paint surrounding the hole or crater?
Just to note, even Type I Water Spots usually require some polishing in order to 100% remove any tale-tale signs.
oke:
