First machine polish this weekend, few question!

ski2 said:
ZL1 Mark said:
Start with 4-5 drops of polish, then use 3 thereafter. Clean pad often. QUOTE]

Good point!! Forgot that with HD Polish less is more. Don't prime the pad in the conventional sense by covering the entire pad with polish then adding drops. And make the drops pea sized not dime sized.

When I mentioned ONR wash didn't mean a full wash--I just wipe the car down with a an ONR dampened MF (rinsed often in the ONR solution) and have no trouble with LSPs bonding.
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How do you recommend I prime the pad? Simply put 4 to 5 drops on a dry pad, spread the polish on the car and only use 3 drops after that? Opposed to spreading the product on the pad with my finger, then applying drops and spreading?

Interesting about the hd polish with orange pad, I'm guessing it is still much less aggressive than fg 400 with a white pad? One more question, if I do a test spot with a more aggressive product and pad, find that the results are satisfactory with the less aggressive combo, how difficult is it to make the aggressive test spot look even? Simply go over it with the less aggressive combo?

Thank you all for the great information, I'm sure it will help others too!
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MCruz said:
How do you recommend I prime the pad? Simply put 4 to 5 drops on a dry pad, spread the polish on the car and only use 3 drops after that?
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Exactly.


MCruz said:
Interesting about the hd polish with orange pad, I'm guessing it is still much less aggressive than fg 400 with a white pad? One more question, if I do a test spot with a more aggressive product and pad, find that the results are satisfactory with the less aggressive combo, how difficult is it to make the aggressive test spot look even? Simply go over it with the less aggressive combo?

Thank you all for the great information, I'm sure it will help others too!
Click to expand...

Yes, FG400 is considerably more aggressive. However, do not take that as you will burn through the clear. You can compound your car several times and not strike through.

If you find the more aggressive spot left marring behind, simply go over it with a less aggressive pad and polish. Easy.

Remember to always wipedown with Eraser to remove polishing oils and reveal the true finish of your test spot. Some polishes fill more than others.
 
Thought I'd give a little update on my progress:

Washed with my new foam gun and CG Honeydew, clayed with ONR. Clayed the whole car and realized it still needed claying after a plastic bag test. I added way too much ONR to my spray bottle, so I had to go over it again. That took a big chunk out of my day, unfortunately.

Decided to start off on the hood. Tried the HD Polish with both the orange/white pads and the FG400 with a white pad. The HD Polish removed some swirls for sure, but the FG400/white pad was definitely what I was looking for. Managed to complete the hood, swirl free but still some scratches that I could have probably corrected with FG400 and orange pad. The FG400 didn't micromarr, although I thought it was initially, but it's extremely hard to tell with 1 500w worklight and metallic black paint. Considering using this combo as a 1 step, or if I surprise myself and really do well tomorrow I'll go back over it with the HD Polish. I was doing 4 section passes at speed 5, for reference. I did experience some dusting with the HD Polish, but I think I used too much product.

If I decide to use the FG400/white pad as a one step, is there any issue with hitting a few trouble spots with an orange pad, and then following up again with the white pad, or is the HD polish necessary to remove the marring introduced by the more aggressive combination?
 
Oh yeah, am I supposed to prime the pad (using fg400) after I clean it on the fly using a towel?
 
MCruz said:
Thought I'd give a little update on my progress:

Washed with my new foam gun and CG Honeydew, clayed with ONR. Clayed the whole car and realized it still needed claying after a plastic bag test. I added way too much ONR to my spray bottle, so I had to go over it again. That took a big chunk out of my day, unfortunately.

Decided to start off on the hood. Tried the HD Polish with both the orange/white pads and the FG400 with a white pad. The HD Polish removed some swirls for sure, but the FG400/white pad was definitely what I was looking for. Managed to complete the hood, swirl free but still some scratches that I could have probably corrected with FG400 and orange pad. The FG400 didn't micromarr, although I thought it was initially, but it's extremely hard to tell with 1 500w worklight and metallic black paint. Considering using this combo as a 1 step, or if I surprise myself and really do well tomorrow I'll go back over it with the HD Polish. I was doing 4 section passes at speed 5, for reference. I did experience some dusting with the HD Polish, but I think I used too much product.

If I decide to use the FG400/white pad as a one step, is there any issue with hitting a few trouble spots with an orange pad, and then following up again with the white pad, or is the HD polish necessary to remove the marring introduced by the more aggressive combination?
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Sounds like you're coming along! :props:

HD Polish is a medium/fine cut polish, so not a surprise it didn't remove all the swirls. HD polish will dust at times, but it doesn't require a whole lot of "technique" to finish well.

FG400 + orange pad may not micro marr(depending on paint hardness). If it does, definitely follow it with less aggressive pad and polish.

Once your pad is primed, you do not need to prime again until you switch to a fresh pad. On a side note, if you're only using 1-2 pads per car, you will notice a decrease in cutting ability as the pads get saturated with product.
 
What about using a body shop prep solvent for removing oils and residue from polishing? Has anybody tried that?
 
Day 2 update:

I've gained a ton of respect for those who do this for a living, because damn is my back destroyed!

Got the whole thing compounded, took me about 6-7 hours. By no means perfect, some swirls remain in a few spots, but I'm pretty satisfied with it being my first attempt. I didn't have the time and energy to finish it off with HD Polish, I think that'll be for another weekend. The FG400 looks great to my eye, although I haven't had it out in the sun yet. Hoping I don't have a shocker :).

Used the Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax on the hood, but it's 10pm and I decided to spare the neighbors another hour of dual action. Going to finish it off tomorrow morning. I feel like I might have rushed the waxing on the hood and missed a few spots, is there any harm in going over it again with another thin coat and black pad?

I'm also thinking about stripping the wax & claying next weekend so I can follow up with the HD Polish.

Thanks everyone!
 
No problem adding another coat of MULW (btw you know this is a sealant not a wax) after about 12 hours from the original application.

No need to strip the ULW when you use the HD Polish next weekend. Just wash and go at it. Most likely it will not need to be clayed unless it sits outside 24/7--do the baggy test as it may save you some time.
 
ski2 said:
No problem adding another coat of MULW (btw you know this is a sealant not a wax) after about 12 hours from the original application.

No need to strip the ULW when you use the HD Polish next weekend. Just wash and go at it. Most likely it will not need to be clayed unless it sits outside 24/7--do the baggy test as it may save you some time.
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I didn't know it was a sealant until after I applied it last night, that's some goofy labeling if ask me. I was wondering why the hood looked kind of..plasticy? Maybe I'll pick up a nice wax and throw it top.

Happy to hear I may be able to go straight to polishing after a wash and baggy test. My back thanks you.

Gonna post pics asap!
 
Do you folks recommend that I prime my black pad with the ULW?
 
ZL1 Mark said:
Exactly.




Yes, FG400 is considerably more aggressive. However, do not take that as you will burn through the clear. You can compound your car several times and not strike through.

If you find the more aggressive spot left marring behind, simply go over it with a less aggressive pad and polish. Easy.

Remember to always wipedown with Eraser to remove polishing oils and reveal the true finish of your test spot. Some polishes fill more than others.
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This - Menzerna polishes seem to be particularly oily. But oh how I love them (except for FG400's smell - blech).
 
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MCruz said:
I didn't know it was a sealant until after I applied it last night, that's some goofy labeling if ask me. I was wondering why the hood looked kind of..plasticy? Maybe I'll pick up a nice wax and throw it top.

Happy to hear I may be able to go straight to polishing after a wash and baggy test. My back thanks you.

Gonna post pics asap!
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Here's some quick photos before I go to work, thanks again everyone!

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ZL1 Mark said:
Whoa!! I did not expect those results, NICE JOB!!!! :props: :props: :props:

You're now an addict!! Im the MAN
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Me either! Really happy it, lots of rock chips that need attention though :)

For reference, I used the Harbor Freight polisher, LC white flat pads with Menzerna FG400, followed by Carpro Eraser. Used Ultimate Liquid Wax with a black flat pad to finish it off.
 
MCruz said:
Me either! Really happy it, lots of rock chips that need attention though :)

For reference, I used the Harbor Freight polisher, LC white flat pads with Menzerna FG400, followed by Carpro Eraser. Used Ultimate Liquid Wax with a black flat pad to finish it off.
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The close up sun shot, I could not see any marring. :props: Metallic is nice to work with.

Your steps were perfect! Looks very, very good!
 
ZL1 Mark said:
Whoa!! I did not expect those results, NICE JOB!!!! :props: :props: :props:

You're now an addict!! Im the MAN
Click to expand...

:iagree: Very good results for your first time........congrats on a job well done :dblthumb2:
 
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