First Rotary + 849X = Mind Blown!

SSizzlin' said:
I'm curious about the 849X.

The PE 14 is a bit overrated in terms of power, IMO.
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There are plenty of threads on this topic because it's it's a popular topic but keep in mind Mark what I wrote in the below thread, which is basically a how-to article on using a rotary buffer from start to finish to buff out a car.


Bumblebee - Testing out the NEW DeWALT DWP849X


From page 5 of the above thread...


Mike Phillips said:
Apples to Oranges
Comparing the Flex PE14 to any of the full size DeWALT rotary buffers, or the Makita, or any other brand of full size rotary buffers is like comparing apples to oranges in that the Flex PE14 is a true compact rotary buffer and falls into the Compact Size category, while the DeWALT DWP849X falls into the Full Size category for rotary buffers.
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And this little important tidbit from a few paragraphs before the above paragraph...

Mike Phillips said:
More reciprocating mass creates more torque
My personal thoughts are that if you're going to be buffing out sanding marks all day long or removing oxidation from large boats all day long then a full size rotary buffer would be a better choice.

The gears are bigger in size as are the rest of the components in a full size rotary buffer and I think having more reciprocating mass creates more torque and this is something you would want if you're going to be doing heavy compounding and polishing with full size pads, (8" and larger), 6 days a week.
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Just trying to keep things in perspective as most people position these two buffers as being in the same category when their not and then this skews the discussion. (because no one else ever points this difference out)


:dblthumb2:


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Mine should be here thursday... lots of good info here. But whats the big deal about holograms if you can just finish with a DA?
 
SonOfOC said:
It would be a added step.
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Forgive my ignorance but can you explain how?

I mean if you cut, polish, glaze with a rotary how is that any different then cut with rotary, then polish and glaze with DA? Its still three steps? Or am I missing something? Again I'm kindof new to this so I'm not trying to be a smart Alec. I may have to start my own trhesd. Cuz now I have lots more questions...
 
Mike was that the batmobile that was just sold on Barret-Jackson? Thank you so much for all the info Mike! Great article as always and very helpful.
 
RLucky82 said:
Forgive my ignorance but can you explain how?

I mean if you cut, polish, glaze with a rotary how is that any different then cut with rotary, then polish and glaze with DA? Its still three steps? Or am I missing something? Again I'm kindof new to this so I'm not trying to be a smart Alec. I may have to start my own trhesd. Cuz now I have lots more questions...
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It's a good question. I have had a good while to play around with my rotary now and have learned some very good techniques from everyone here.

If you are doing multi-step correction work, holograms are not going to be an issue. As long as you do a final polishing step with your DA you should be able to finish hologram free very easily.

One thing I love about the rotary compared to my DA is the ability to jewel the paint. My wife's Kia has ridiculously soft CC on some panels that were resprayed. I've noticed a marked difference when finishing with a rotary, low speed, M205 and black CCS. I used to get very fine micro marring when finishing with a DA and black pad (only noticeable with Brinkman and nose practically touching the paint). Doesn't happen when finishing with the rotary. Just another example of why it really is helpful to have both styles of polishing tools in your arsenal!! :props:
 
Sorry I wasn't more clear. What I meant was that I finish LSP ready with a rotary for certain paint systems. No DA needed.
Most of the times, I ended up compounding with rotary then polishing with a DA.
Then there times I compound and polish with a rotary and there still holograms. Requiring a DA to finish up.
I use a Flex PE-14 a lot. It is smoother and quieter than any DA. For me it is faster and less fatiquing than a buzzing DA.

RLucky82 said:
Forgive my ignorance but can you explain how?

I mean if you cut, polish, glaze with a rotary how is that any different then cut with rotary, then polish and glaze with DA? Its still three steps? Or am I missing something? Again I'm kindof new to this so I'm not trying to be a smart Alec. I may have to start my own trhesd. Cuz now I have lots more questions...
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You'll like the 849x. Many improvements over the venerable Makita 9227. It is very quite and very smooth.
RLucky82 said:
Mine should be here thursday... lots of good info here. But whats the big deal about holograms if you can just finish with a DA?
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There's so much to absorb here. This is both fun & exhausting to digest.

I'm beginning to think the better move is to keep the 7424XP and add a rotary rather than trading in for a Rupes.
 
I had the same question you did but, Thanks to this thread and its contributers I made the choice to keep the Porter Cable. For the price its hard to beat, for the cost of the Flex or Rupes I now have 2 machines that cover many bases. I don't think that either the flex or rupes alone can do every thing this combo can. But that doesn't mean I don't want Flex3401 anymore :-) and I just can't see selling the PC for a loss.
 
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