First shot at fixing the black Vette

[tuscarora dave]

Very nice work on that fender John. How did you like working with the microfiber pads? Did you over saturate any of them and did they separate between the microfiber and foam, or between the velcro and foam? Were they Meguiar's MF pads or another brand? Less is more when working with the microfiber pads. I destroyed a bunch these pads until I finally learned how little product should be used and how long at what speeds to work it at. It's a real balancing act that sometimes changes with paint hardness.

Now....About that wristwatch.....What's up with that? :bat: :nomore:

Seriously though, unless the watch laying directly on the paint was part of your photography technique....you really should work on breaking the habit of sitting "anything" on your paint.

Great job so far and keep on posting as you have time. TD

 

[J S Machine]

Dave, I have not even used the microfiber pads yet, but I believe they are Lake Country. I figured there might be a tad of a learning curve with them, so I will save them for this weekend. I may go after one of the doors with one, that way I have a large, more flat area to work with. Less variables if ya get my drift. The fender was not easy to do because the thing is so curvy. I really had to change my plan of attack in order to get it done, and like I said in the last reply, I even had to do some hand compounding in polishing. The machine will not reach everything.

The watch and wedding ring were removed because I was touching the paint so much with my hands (on the fender). Remember, the hood is still in question and that's the reason those things are sitting on it. Trust me, I thought about it, and I don;t just toss stuff up there..It is just not really a concern right now because I know the hood will require more work than anything in the entire project.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Dave, I have not even used the microfiber pads yet, but I believe they are Lake Country. I figured there might be a tad of a learning curve with them, so I will save them for this weekend. I may go after one of the doors with one, that way I have a large, more flat area to work with. Less variables if ya get my drift. The fender was not easy to do because the thing is so curvy. I really had to change my plan of attack in order to get it done, and like I said in the last reply, I even had to do some hand compounding in polishing. The machine will not reach everything.

With the MF disks being much flatter and thinner than foam pads, there is quite a learning curve involved. The key is to not over saturate them with product and to use only light to medium pressure. More pressure can be applied if needed but the more saturated the pad is with product, the more the likelihood of heat and moisture causing a pad failure is. Keep a good focus on how much heat is being generated in the pad and if it's getting hot, switch to a new pad and work with less product and less pressure. You should initially prime the entire face of the MF pad with a very thin layer of M-105 to ensure that 100% of the face of the pad is working for you and just add small dots of M-105 as needed from there on out. Spin the pad clean with compressed air if you have it available. If not, clean with a stiff bristled brush often.

The watch and wedding ring were removed because I was touching the paint so much with my hands (on the fender). Remember, the hood is still in question and that's the reason those things are sitting on it. Trust me, I thought about it, and I don;t just toss stuff up there..It is just not really a concern right now because I know the hood will require more work than anything in the entire project.

I was (for the most part) just ribbing you about the watch. rops:

 

[mackey]

With the MF disks being much flatter and thinner than foam pads, there is quite a learning curve involved. The key is to not over saturate them with product and to use only light to medium pressure. More pressure can be applied if needed but the more saturated the pad is with product, the more the likelihood of heat and moisture causing a pad failure is. Keep a good focus on how much heat is being generated in the pad and if it's getting hot, switch to a new pad and work with less product and less pressure. You should initially prime the entire face of the MF pad with a very thin layer of M-105 to ensure that 100% of the face of the pad is working for you and just add small dots of M-105 as needed from there on out. Spin the pad clean with compressed air if you have it available. If not, clean with a stiff bristled brush often.

i just ordered some MF LC pads n a little bit of d300 to keep the 105 from dusting as heavily. good tips

great thread. been working on correcting my black CTS-V and feel your frustration OP but looks like its getting easier for you with each session you put in

 

[Hoytman]

Nice work John. Factory clear on that fender, huh? If that's the case you can almost bet you have plenty of clear on the areas that were repainted. You said you felt comfortable with the amount of clear in those areas and now you've got an indicator. Still using Trizac 3000?

Did the light change make a difference for you compared to the light that you had made? Care to elaborate on your experience polishing in the dark, as well as the light change?

Also, after seeing how much hand sanding you have done, I think you can see where a Griot's 3" polisher with sanding discs would save you tons of time. You could sand the entire panel with it, finish necessary areas by hand, and still have less time in it than you have. I'm pretty much convinced after seeing that fender that I'm going to buy the 3" Griot's polisher and related sanding items. I've got a black hood that's far worse than what you're working on and I think the Griot's unit and sanding discs are going to save me a ton of time. It's bad enough that if I break through that it isn't a big deal because a repaint was needed in the first place. Going to be taking photo's and video of it today.

 

[J S Machine]

Nice work John. Factory clear on that fender, huh? If that's the case you can almost bet you have plenty of clear on the areas that were repainted. You said you felt comfortable with the amount of clear in those areas and now you've got an indicator. Still using Trizac 3000?

Did the light change make a difference for you compared to the light that you had made? Care to elaborate on your experience polishing in the dark, as well as the light change?

Also, after seeing how much hand sanding you have done, I think you can see where a Griot's 3" polisher with sanding discs would save you tons of time. You could sand the entire panel with it, finish necessary areas by hand, and still have less time in it than you have. I'm pretty much convinced after seeing that fender that I'm going to buy the 3" Griot's polisher and related sanding items. I've got a black hood that's far worse than what you're working on and I think the Griot's unit and sanding discs are going to save me a ton of time. It's bad enough that if I break through that it isn't a big deal because a repaint was needed in the first place. Going to be taking photo's and video of it today.

Yes still using that same Trizac pad. It will probably last the entire car, although I may pick up another.

The light change was simply because the plug in light has a base, you may be able to see it on the bucket that it is sitting on. Plus I can bend the little stem and point it all different ways. My other light works great, but as I had told you, I built it and it gets very hot. That is alot of power in that little LED star and the aluminum housing gets pretty warm. Heat is an LED's worst enemy. It is night riding season for mountain bikes, and I strapped it back on my helmet wednesday night for a ride. While riding the light stays cool from the cold air passing it. Holding it still by the car, I have to turn it on and off and limit it's use to keep it cool...

Working in the dark is ok, but I would much rather have natural light. It just seems easier when I can see everything. I don't have much of a choice though now since the time changed..

And yes, I would probably come out better or just as quick sanding the entire panel in some places on the car, like with this fender, lol.

 

[J S Machine]

Started on the back bumper cover last night. I spent two hours sanding the small RIDS everywhere. I took these pics first just to highlight some of the areas.

I think the most puzzling part of this entore correction are these random RIDS that are very noticeable. Some of them make no sense. I can understand a deep scratch like this one that is kind of in a straight line, but the others I found are just unexplainable. This straight line scratch was not too deep to completely remove with sanding, even though it may appear that way. This is right behind the passenger rear tire

This is one of those scratches that don't make sense. I don't remember this being on the car, but it could have been. I'm pretty sure this isn't a stress crack in the paint. The only thing that I can explain this with is maybe a scratch from when the bumper cover had fresh paint and the body shop was reassembling it. Still, I don't think they would make a mistake like this; especially let it go out the door. Look right below the reflection of the light in that bend on the edge

This is another one that makes no sense whatsoever. I have no idea what even caused this scratch. Maybe somebody took a mini pitchfork and decided to rub it on the side of the car..maybe a fork?? Whatever it is, it is too deep to safely remove

And here are some poor pictures of the bumper after sanding was completed

Maybe today I will be able to start buffing on it. I want to try to get this done by tomorrow night.

20 hours in now.

 

[J S Machine]

I'm still working on the back bumper cover. I got the compounding step done sunday, but had some other obligations so I had to stop. Still need the swirl removal, polish, and paint sealant step on that.

I had my second 3" hydro tech pad blow up and tear apart while in use. I won't be buying anymore of those. I don't understand why they don't make any 3" flat pads..Those would be perfect..

It was raining when I got home yesterday so maybe I can pick up on it today.

 

[slapshot]

Great work so far. The car has come a long way since you first asked for help.

 

[J S Machine]

Great work so far. The car has come a long way since you first asked for help.

Thanks. I appreciate it. It has been very hard, time consuming work.

I finally got the back bumper cover finished. It was truly too big of a job to take on as a whole panel. I should have either divided it in half, or maybe quarters. I've noticed that depending on how big the area is I'm working on, it increases my chances of slipping up, or not doing as good of a job. I eneded up re-doing several steps, because I was moving to fast in an effort to get it done. I did divide it up into smaller areas as I was doing section passes, simply because I could not stretch the compound too far..but still, when it takes 10 different areas individually to do an entire panel, it takes an hour for each step..I'm sure you get my drift..

Here are some pictures of the back. Finished up at about 9pm last night. 26 hours into the correction now.

 

[FUNX650]

It has been very hard, time consuming work.

No doubt...But I bet it's been very rewarding!!

I finally got the back bumper cover finished.

And it looks excellent! :xyxthumbs:

-I meant to comment earlier in your thread, about how your correction of others "mishandlings" of
your Corvette's paint, is surely evoking feelings of elation.

-Also...It's nice to see your documentation of bringing your Corvette's paint back to a: Healthy-status.

-And...From not only the above photo, but many others you've posted as well,
it appears (from what's scattered around the floor) your keeping all those:
Horses under the hood...Healthy as well!!

-I know it may seem arduous work at times...
But don't allow it to stall your project's progression.



Bob

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great work so far. The car has come a long way since you first asked for help.

Great observation...

Thanks. I appreciate it. It has been very hard, time consuming work.

And that's why ANY detailer that can be considered a Pro, that is they know what they are doing will be and should be charging more than all the hack detailers.

Doing the job wrong is still hard work and takes a lot of time but it's also a waste of everyone's time, money and it's also destructive to the paint on the car which is already thin to start with.

 

[cartman57]

Thanks. I appreciate it. It has been very hard, time consuming work.

I finally got the back bumper cover finished. It was truly too big of a job to take on as a whole panel. I should have either divided it in half, or maybe quarters. I've noticed that depending on how big the area is I'm working on, it increases my chances of slipping up, or not doing as good of a job. I eneded up re-doing several steps, because I was moving to fast in an effort to get it done. I did divide it up into smaller areas as I was doing section passes, simply because I could not stretch the compound too far..but still, when it takes 10 different areas individually to do an entire panel, it takes an hour for each step..I'm sure you get my drift..

Here are some pictures of the back. Finished up at about 9pm last night. 26 hours into the correction now.

Beautiful transformation!!
Well worth the time and effort, imagine if you paid someone to do it?
More satisfaction by doing it yourself.

 

[J S Machine]

I took a shot at the passenger rear fender yesterday. I got it done, but I am struggling. I was put back on 12 hrs/day at work, and that coupled with the time change has really taken its toll. My goal is to do at least one panel start to finish, but it is very hard to do in a decent time frame with the amount of correction that is needed. I am driving the car, so I don't want to be cruising around with blue tape hanging out on it, and that's the reason I try to fully complete each panel. There just seems to be so much damage. It is getting frustrating.

I made my first mistake last night. I'm getting up at 2am and going into work, so I can still get off by 3:30pm and have a tad of daylight when I get home. Yesterday I got after it at about 4:15pm. By 5pm it was dark. At 7pm, I was still working on the same fender. Working in the dark is doable, but it is just easier when you have light to see everything better.

Here is a picture before I started

I have washed and dried it, taped it off, and started sanding the scratches. It is just very discouraging to hit these panels with a bright light and see numerous scratches..all of them deep enough where the DA and M105 wont get them out. My only option is to sand every single one. Usually, after I complete an area, I can still see the scratches (some are slightly deeper than others), so I have to go back over them. Just seems like I can't ever get past this sanding step in order to get to the compounding steps.

And then once I do, I usually start with one set of five section passes. I can still see scratches after that, and I have to do another set of five section passes. This usually g4ets them all out.

So in order, my steps are like this:

1. wash/dry
2. tape
3. compound with about five section passes of M105 to expose the deeper scratches where I can see them better (this step is optional, sometimes there are few enough of them where I can just go straight to the next step)
4. Sand the scratches
5. compound with five section passes of M105
6. come back and sand any scratches again that may still show through (rare that this happenes but it does every so often)
7. another five section passes of M105
8. five section passes with Wolfgang TSR
9. four section passes with Wolfgang Finishing glaze
10. wipe with IPA well, buff with Microfiber
11. Paint sealant
12. Buff paint sealant off.

Last night, I skipped number seven. I thought that the first set of compounding section passes had sufficiently removed all the scratches...but it had not. By the time I did the TSR step, I still could not see the true condition of the paint. After I did the finishing glaze step and wiped with IPA, that's when I could still see the light holograms and spiderweb swirls that the section set of section passes with M105 would have gotten out. At this point, I just gave up and went ahead and sealed it. I will just go back to it later. It still looks about 90% better than the damaged panels, but it isn't as good of a job as I have done on the previously corrected panels. I am going to keep moving and come back to that one after the whole car is complete. If I had slowed down, wiped with IPA after every step, and done the necessary steps to ge tthe defects out before moving to the next, I'd be ok. Since I didn't I just caused mysef more work.

The point of this post is just to re-emphasize several things I've learned.
1. Don't try to do too big of a panel or work area at a time.
2. Don't move faster than you should, and don't skip steps. They may not show up until later on, and then you have wasted the time since the skipped step. Since compounds usually get progressively less in cut, the only feasable way to get the defects out is to go back to that step in the process. Theoretically it could be done with the compound that is not so aggressive you have arrived at, but it would be quicker to just go back and use the agressive stuff. But..at this point, rememeber, you will still have to come back down the line of steps to get back to the point you are at.

 

[J S Machine]

I forgot to mention that I forgot to take finished pics of the back fender. I will try and get some of those up in a day or two.

 

[Hoytman]

Great post John. Nice work too. I might add to your list...

3. Don't be afraid to divde a panel into halves, or thirds, etc.

You're already tired and we both know where that leads.

Keep pressing man, you're almost home.

I think me and you both need to invest in a small Griot's to sand with and for polishing in tight areas. It's on my Christmas list, for sure.

You ought to see what I've been doing. Rotary, wool pad, M105. About 7 1/2 hours in just the roof of this black Trailblazer I told you about. I still have another M105 step, and a polishing step. Not sure if I'll do any sanding or not this year.

My first and main goal is simply to remove the oxidation and get it looking better than it does. If I have time before any real cold snap hits I'll do more, if not I'm going to stop at M105 on a DA and seal it with a DG 105 and plan on finishing in the spring. At this stage I'm sort of at the mercy of Mother Nature, which is fine.

Like you, I have a new found respect for what it takes to do this sort of work...the right way. Like Mr. Phillips stated and eluded to...I haven't been charging nearly enough for the work I have done...even my one-steps.

Really glad to see your progress.

 

[cartman57]

Try to divide the doors in half if that's the next area to get done. I've done sections of the vehicle every day until it's finished, took 2 weeks.

The results of your work are great and documentation is very complete.

 

[J S Machine]

Like night and day..

I feel better about it now.

 

[Hoytman]

Night and day? You better believe it. Great work, John.

 

[Johny B]

Great work!