First time PC user (pics included)

BobbyG said:
For a first attempt on a practice fender I think you did a great job and now you have some real hands on experience for your next project! :props:
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I wholeheartedly agree...

Great job on documenting with your pictures... Not sure I can add anything that everyone else has already suggested...

The Porter Cable is very safe and the pads and products you're using are also very safe... so you really can't cause any harm...

The #4 mentioned above as a rubbing compound is accurate, it is "Rocks in a bottle" and care must be used if ever used on a clear coat finish.

Also, as you're gaining experience remember that the shallow defects will remove first leaving behind the deeper defects and these will stand out like a sore thumb.

Some you can remove with more polishing, some you shouldn't remove but instead learn to live with... see this article...

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


:)
 
rohnramirez said:
Well done. I guess you just need to lessen the amount of clay you use next time, just to avoid unnecessary wastage. It's too much for a fender. I would say the amont you had in your hand is good for half, if not your entire car. :)
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Will do

Fly bye said:

Definately, definately go with a 5.5" orange LC pad with the #2 XMT polish. If that isn't aggressive enough, XMT offers #3 & #4, #4 being a compound. #2 with a white pad will remove very fine swirls.

A white LC pad with #2 is perfectly fine for finishing :xyxthumbs:

Btw...good show :xyxthumbs:




:buffing:




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yes, i will be trying orange pad with #2 or TSR.

BobbyG said:
Someone's been paying attention in class! :props:

A little more time with something like Meguiar's M105 or Menzerna Power Gloss and an Orange pad will make those scratches disappear. Switch to Meguiar's M205 or Menzerna Power Finish PO203 and a White pad and finish polish.

For a first attempt on a practice fender I think you did a great job and now you have some real hands on experience for your next project! :props:
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I've learned a lot from AG and its members.
I don't have any of those products, not yet. (#2,#3,TSR,85rd)

thanks again

Bonifax said:
I mean if it's your first time with the PC.... :dblthumb2:
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thanks

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I wholeheartedly agree...

Great job on documenting with your pictures... Not sure I can add anything that everyone else has already suggested...

The Porter Cable is very safe and the pads and products you're using are also very safe... so you really can't cause any harm...

The #4 mentioned above as a rubbing compound is accurate, it is "Rocks in a bottle" and care must be used if ever used on a clear coat finish.

Also, as you're gaining experience remember that the shallow defects will remove first leaving behind the deeper defects and these will stand out like a sore thumb.

Some you can remove with more polishing, some you shouldn't remove but instead learn to live with... see this article...

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


:)
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Thank you, im pumped you commented on my thread :D
im in aw and honored, but this is my first thread...

I've watched bunch of your vids and read the articles. Huge help.

I will not be messing with compounds ATM, do wanna try the UC though.

Also while your looking i had question on sap. This sap is probably been there for 5 years or so, i tried very hard to get these saps off the hood (wd40, removers) with no results. Sap feels smooth. I was thinking of slowly chipping the sap off with razor.

Id like to make this my practice project car, but looks like ill be spending more time taking the sap off then actual polishing.


Is it ok to polish over sap??
Can aggressive polishes remove sap??

Thanks again everyone
 

tenzin said:
Is it ok to polish over sap??

Can aggressive polishes remove sap??
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I would try to chemically remove the sap. Lay a hot towel over the sap to melt/loosen it. There are products that are designed for this very purpose. As far as removing sap with an aggressive polish/compound? I don't believe I have ever attempted to remove sap with a polish or compound, so I don't know, but the sap may ruin your pad. I would go with the chemical route.




 
Fly bye said:




I would try to chemically remove the sap. Lay a hot towel over the sap to melt/loosen it. There are products that are designed for this very purpose. As far as removing sap with an aggressive polish/compound? I don't believe I have ever attempted to remove sap with a polish or compound, so I don't know, but the sap may ruin your pad. I would go with the chemical route.




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I've tried WD40, bug & sap removers. And the hood was HOT, left it in the sun, still nothing. I'm thinking, i might chip away with a razor, loosen it up then try some removers.

Yea, i don't plan on removing sap with polish, i was just wondering. If it did, it would ruin the pad somewhat and spread the sap.

thanks
 
So since you clayed it, i would assume that didn't help. May be you can try some kerosene, 3m adhesive remover, paint safe apc..i would personally try those in that order. If all of those fail, i would try the plastic blades AG has, if that fails too, some wetsanding should surely cure that. IME you don't need to go very aggressive on the grit, 2k or 2.5k is fine,you just have to have patience. :)
 

tenzin said:
I've tried WD40, bug & sap removers. And the hood was HOT, left it in the sun, still nothing.
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My guess is the sap has been on the paint for a long time eh? Sounds like it is dry and hard. This sort of thing is not easy to remove, so take your time and think it out.

Btw, how hot is hot? Are you talking 120-130 degree's? Looks like rohnramirez has the chemicals down.




 
rohnramirez said:
So since you clayed it, i would assume that didn't help. May be you can try some kerosene, 3m adhesive remover, paint safe apc..i would personally try those in that order. If all of those fail, i would try the plastic blades AG has, if that fails too, some wetsanding should surely cure that. IME you don't need to go very aggressive on the grit, 2k or 2.5k is fine,you just have to have patience. :)
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I have not tried using APC+. i might try wet sanding 2k or 2.5k

yes patience is a must

Fly bye said:




My guess is the sap has been on the paint for a long time eh? Sounds like it is dry and hard. This sort of thing is not easy to remove, so take your time and think it out.

Btw, how hot is hot? Are you talking 120-130 degree's? Looks like rohnramirez has the chemicals down.




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Yes very long, maybe 5 years or more. It was about 95 degrees outside, and i would guess the hood would be more, sitting out in the sun.
 
Well that kinda sounds like cement hard in 5years time. lol. But i'm sure you'll figure something my friend. :)
 
Fly bye said:
Lay a hot towel over the sap to melt/loosen it.
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I was thinking this might be a "safe" idea to at least try.

Placing car in sun is close but it's like placing cookies in an over, they're going to harden. Adding warmth and water and you might be able to moisten it to some level?



tenzin said:
i might try wet sanding 2k or 2.5k
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You could probably carefully sand it off, at least most of it and then work the rest off by hand with a compound, XMT #4 would probably do it so might Ultimate Compound. Apply with just a single finger using a microfiber towel as a part of your abrasive.

If you remove it then just do some "cover passes" over the area to remove any Fingermarks from rubbing hard by hand.


If you use the razor blade idea, get the plastic type... we have in the Autogeek.net store if you can't find them local.


:)
 
I will try the hot towel, see how that works. Most likely i think i will try to sand with 2 or 2.5k. Gives me reason to use UC, see how it is.

razor will be my last option..

Bucks: i tried goo gone also

Thank you everyone, your help is much appreciated

Think i will be trying maybe this weekend...
 
Nice write up man, hope the sap comes out. Funny how you can do 99% of a job and have it turn out awesome but its just the little things that sometimes WONT go away that eat at you.

I hope you get the sap off as much as anyone, but if not...dont let 2 little spots get to you in a bad way when WHOLE car looks (or will look) so awesome. Its kinda the same as RIDS...sometimes certain things have been there so long there is no coming back for it.

I did my moms 96 Taurus as my first try out...105/205 the hood with 4" pads (takes quite a while i'll tell you that) and man i thought it was pretty decent. Then i took it in the sun and you would not BELIEVE the RIDS that were left....but then I had to acknowledge the truth that...this car was left in a car port the first 4 or 5 years she had it, no garage...and our cat as well as our neighbors cats liked to use it as a tap dancing stage....and at the time i was a young teen and had no clue about detailing...so dish soap and some old towels were used for washing and drying.

So needless to say, I had to accept that i couldn't get it any better than it was. But I kept practicing (i too only am using the original PC at the moment) and oddly enough the last job I just did was with XMT #2 also, my first time trying it...heres the write up if you wanna check it out http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...uburban-turn-around-lots-pics.html#post356695 ...the owners didnt hire us for 100% correction, they were selling it and just wanted a decent clean up...we told them we'd aim for 65-70% correction...we got damn close to 90% i'd say and used the same method as you did...polishing pad with XMT #2 (just was a Megs 2.0 7" pad)...so trust me... if ya stick to it you'll be getting the results you want....and I can tell you this... your first attempt at using the PC turned out way nicer than mine:props:

Good job and keep us posted on that sap...5 years huh...as Mike said, thats a baked cookie lol
 
Thank you , that sure is one HUGE suburban. Must have taken long time...turned out nice.
 
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