Fixed my First Scuff/Scratch... First time Wet Sanding factory clear

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Jbirk

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Started out with this scratch...
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Some Wet Sanding


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Here is what I used... I thought 2000 would work, but it did NOT. 1500 took it all out thankfully because I wasn't willing to drop down to 1000

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Then I mahcine polished by DA using these:


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Results:





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Close Up:

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Nice, but are you really paying Photobucket to host your photos?
 
Great job. Seeing this makes me want to give it a try. Thanks for the post!
 
MrNiceGuy said:
Great job. Seeing this makes me want to give it a try. Thanks for the post!
Click to expand...


You should. That paint is 6 years old having been compounded and polished at least a couple times, yet compound never took out that scratch.

What I did was first try 2000 grit paper, and it really did not fully remove it. I Was carefully to do long strokes perpendicular to the scratch with the most pressure over the scratch and less to the right and left of the scratch to "blend" is what I was thinking mentally.

I also stayed away from the edges; since, edges have less paint. While I was sanding, I lubricated it with some Final Inspection in a spray bottle, but you can use any quick detailing spray or even a waterless wash or soapy water in a pinch. Pro-Tip, when mixing waterless wash, use distilled water; since, it doesn't have minerals that can leave water spots.

2000 grit removed about 80% or more, but wasn't enough leaving some of the scratch, so I went down to 1500. I would stop periodically and shine a bright flashlight at the area and rinse it by spraying my sandpaper lube. The spray would make the matte finish look glossy, so I could better see the results with the light.

Now, I would up the grit each time thinking 1.5 times the grit is the goal. Hence, ideally from 1500 the next grit would be 2250, which they don't make; hence, back to 2000. Either way 3000 is unlikely to be able to remove 1500 scratches. Back to 2000 over a slightly bigger area. Then I did 3000, then 5000.

Then I pulled out the DA and did 105 on a heavy duty foam cutting pad Yellow Lake Country flat. Then I did Swirl X on a Light Cutting cutting pad orange. Finally, I did Menzurna SF4500, which is their finest polish. Now it is their 3800 - it's been renamed. I did this one on a white polishing pad, but you could use a green light polishing pad.

This picture was taken with no wax or sealant!
 
Jbirk said:
You should. That paint is 6 years old having been compounded and polished at least a couple times, yet compound never took out that scratch.

What I did was first try 2000 grit paper, and it really did not fully remove it. I Was carefully to do long strokes perpendicular to the scratch with the most pressure over the scratch and less to the right and left of the scratch to "blend" is what I was thinking mentally.

I also stayed away from the edges; since, edges have less paint. While I was sanding, I lubricated it with some Final Inspection in a spray bottle, but you can use any quick detailing spray or even a waterless wash or soapy water in a pinch. Pro-Tip, when mixing waterless wash, use distilled water; since, it doesn't have minerals that can leave water spots.

2000 grit removed about 80% or more, but wasn't enough leaving some of the scratch, so I went down to 1500. I would stop periodically and shine a bright flashlight at the area and rinse it by spraying my sandpaper lube. The spray would make the matte finish look glossy, so I could better see the results with the light.

Now, I would up the grit each time thinking 1.5 times the grit is the goal. Hence, ideally from 1500 the next grit would be 2250, which they don't make; hence, back to 2000. Either way 3000 is unlikely to be able to remove 1500 scratches. Back to 2000 over a slightly bigger area. Then I did 3000, then 5000.

Then I pulled out the DA and did 105 on a heavy duty foam cutting pad Yellow Lake Country flat. Then I did Swirl X on a Light Cutting cutting pad orange. Finally, I did Menzurna SF4500, which is their finest polish. Now it is their 3800 - it's been renamed. I did this one on a white polishing pad, but you could use a green light polishing pad.

This picture was taken with no wax or sealant!
Click to expand...

Excellent write up. I'll be keeping this for reference. Thanks!
 
MrNiceGuy said:
Excellent write up. I'll be keeping this for reference. Thanks!
Click to expand...


Thanks. I almost forgot the fingernail test. I tested to see if a fingernail would be caught in the scratch... it wasn't. Generally, from all I have read this means there is hope to remove it. If your fingernail sticks, you are generally down through the clear to the primer or base.
 
What is the reading on your paint thickness gauge before and after? It looks really nice.
 
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