Flex 3403 Lightweight

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I love the idea of how lightweight it is. However, could the lowest speed of 1100 ever be a problem finishing, especially soft clears?
 
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I'm curious about this too .
Good thread .
 
No, not really. My PC 7428 goes to 1000 rpm. There isn't a large difference between the two and you'll be operating in the 1500 rpm range for basically everything anyway.

Also, may be it's because I'm a strong guy, but I still don't see what all the big fuss is about the weight of my rotary. It weighs like 8.5 lbs (I think). It's alot like the DeWalt 849. I would suggest a Makita for a nice in between though.
 
No problem using the Flex L3403VRG lightweight Circular Polisher at 1100rpm for Finishing when used properly. I would recommend using a Dual Action Polisher for any Finishing work.
 
I also prefer the bale handle of the Flex compared to the Makita. Of course, I can always buy the Metabo. :buffing:
 
You can, but it's harder to do without leaving buffer trails. asphalt has told me that even M205 can leave slight traisl and Ultrafina with a blue pad should easily take care of them.
 
zinc02gt said:
No, not really. My PC 7428 goes to 1000 rpm. There isn't a large difference between the two and you'll be operating in the 1500 rpm range for basically everything anyway.

Also, may be it's because I'm a strong guy, but I still don't see what all the big fuss is about the weight of my rotary. It weighs like 8.5 lbs (I think). It's alot like the DeWalt 849. I would suggest a Makita for a nice in between though.
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A PC going 1000 rpm...do you mean opm? Big difference!
 
7428... not 7424.

SDC10020.jpg
 
zinc02gt said:
You can, but it's harder to do without leaving buffer trails.

asphalt has told me that even M205 can leave slight trails and Ultrafina with a blue pad should easily take care of them.
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Depends upon how you inspect and the paint type. It's usually not a very good idea to write or talk in absolutes. Different paints polish differently. You might buff out a car using only a rotary buffer and get a true 100% swirl free finish. Try the same product and process on another car with a different paint job and maybe still have rotary buffer swirls.

Also, all this talk about creating a 100% swirl free finish depends upon how you inspect for the swirls.

If you buff out the paint in a garage and after the rotary work apply a wax or paint sealant it will probably look 100% swirl free.

If after you do all the rotary buffer work you chemically strip the finish or just wash it really good with a strong solution of a detergent wash AND THEN move the car into bright, overhead sunlight and inspect, it might look swirl free and you might see rotary buffer swirls also called buffer trails or holograms.

Bright overhead sun shining down on a large, flat horizontal panel like the hood or trunk lid AFTER it's been chemically stripped or detergent-washed is the best way I know of for inspecting for swirls because if they're present they'll certainly show up.

It's not that the sun is the best at highlighting defects, it's that full-on sun is larger than any light you can plug into a socket inside a garage. There's something about pulling a car into bright sunlight and the power of the sun to light up evenly the entire surface to reveal what's really going on at the surface level.

I'm confident that some detailers can achieve a 100% swirl-free finish using only a rotary buffer but I don't think all detailers can and I don't' think even the best detailers can do it ALL the time on ALL paint systems. Again, it's not a good idea to talk or type in absolutes, there's an old saying that goes like this,

Pride goeth before a fall

I've been buffing out cars using a rotary buffer since the late 70's and have buffed out enough cars using only a rotary buffer to know a little bit about this topic as well as wear the rough, sandcast textured surface of my Makita Rotary buffer smooth like a piece of chrome and you won't find me ever stating or bragging that I can create a swirl free finish on ALL paint systems All the time.

MetalWornAwayAfterYearsOfBuffing.jpg


600_closeupafter15yearsofbuffing.jpg




I'm completely happy to let other detailers proclaim that bragging right about themselves. :props:


And on that note, this is why I always post that following your rotary buffer steps with a DA Polisher, either a PC type or a Flex 3401 will insure a swirl free finish because you change the action of the tool.

By this I mean you change the way the pad is moving on top of the paint from a direct drive rotating action, the action that can instill buffer swirls/holograms to a random, oscillating action that will not leave rotary buffer swirls but will in fact work them out.

And again, here are two very good examples of how two different forum members tried to get 100% swirl free finishes but it wasn't until they changed the action of the tool that they achieved their goal.

What am I doing wrong - Holograms after using the rotary buffer

4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?



I'm confident there are more threads like this on AG.

So what this all comes down to is your standards and expectations for your car's finish and yourself. Light rotary buffer swirls are easily filled and masked by a light polishing and the application of a quality wax or paint sealant. If after this the paint is always maintained no one will ever see the swirls left in the paint, so how would anyone ever know they were there in the first place? If the detailer didn't do as I posted above, strip the finish and then inspect in bright overhead sunlight, which isn't always possible depending upon the time of year and the weather, then again.. how would anyone ever know?

Not only time of year and weather can prevent a detailer from inspection their results in bright sunlight, but a lot of times, if the car is a "Special Interest" automobile, --> you <-- can't always jump in the car and drive it in and out of the shop or garage. So it's not always possible to check your results in full sun.

And if a detailer does in fact remove all the swirls their first rotary buffers steps instilled, or the hack detailer that instilled them in the first place and now a Pro is removing them, if the are 100% removed without a doubt, then the paint is waxed or sealed and then properly maintained, how would anyone ever now?

This topic will undoubtedly go on forever as it should but be careful about speaking or writing in absolutes, pride goeth before a fall...


:)
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I love the idea of how lightweight it is. However, could the lowest speed of 1100 ever be a problem finishing, especially soft clears?
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To tell the truth, the 1100 RPM on this tool feels just like 1000 RPM on all the other rotary buffers I've ever used. Just my honest opinion...

If you want a RB that spins slow then go for the Makita 9227C as the low on the Makita is 600 RPM


:buffing:
 
I own the Makita rotary and got to use the light weight at a extreme makeover class and that rotary rocks IMO.If i didn't all ready own a flex,PC and a makita i would buy it in a heart beat.Some old school guys prefer the weight of other notary's but when your working on the side of a car that's when the light weight really shines
 
Zinc-when using certain pads with 205 it will leave slight holograms. When using 205 with a finishing pad there are no holograms but 205 just doesn't amp the finish like Ultrafina does.

Mike, why is it called bragging when you someone can finish hologram free on all paints, is it because you can not achieve this?
 
The old saying, the right tool for the job applies here...

I love the Flex 3403 because of it's lightweight, quality build and ample power, but just note the body does get pretty warm when buffing over time with a large pad. If you stick with the smaller pads it's not a problem.

Also if you use the handles like you're supposed to it's not a problem, I tend to remove handles and just hold the head or body and also the grip.

The Makita with the widest range of RPM's helps to make it a top choice for a full size rotary buffer.

In a perfect world we could all have one of each in our garage.

Just to note, all of our polisher will be available to test out during Detail Fest this year. Both the classes on Saturday are primarily showing the right technique to use with the different tools and then turning the students loose to try them out.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The old saying, the right tool for the job applies here...

I love the Flex 3403 because of it's lightweight, quality build and ample power, but just note the body does get pretty warm when buffing over time with a large pad. If you stick with the smaller pads it's not a problem.

Also if you use the handles like you're supposed to it's not a problem, I tend to remove handles and just hold the head or body and also the grip.

The Makita with the widest range of RPM's helps to make it a top choice for a full size rotary buffer.

In a perfect world we could all have one of each in our garage.

Just to note, all of our polisher will be available to test out during Detail Fest this year. Both the classes on Saturday are primarily showing the right technique to use with the different tools and then turning the students loose to try them out.


:)
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What's the benefit of using a 6.5" pad on a rotary compared to 7.5"? Or vice versa..
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Mike, why is it called bragging when you someone can finish hologram free on all paints, is it because you can not achieve this?
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Everyone can say what they want about themselves, and that applies to you. As for me I prefer to test out each paint system I work on to see how it reacts to polishing. I've come across paints that polish out as easy as a summer breeze and I've come across paints that scratch if you look at them wrong and everything in-between.

One thing I've noticed over the years on forums, is that it's always more powerful to have other people say nice things about you then to proclaim them yourself. A good example of this Joe aka Superior Shine, he never brags about his skill level and he doesn't need to.

But hey, everyone has their own style of buffing and their own style of posting to forums and you're definitely entitled to both.

:props:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
What's the benefit of using a 6.5" pad on a rotary compared to 7.5"? Or vice versa..
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The reason is that the bigger the pad the faster the outside speed of the pad is which forces the tool to work harder, which in turn causes more heat. This is the downfall of the lighter rotaries and the reson they will go into thermal shut down.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
What's the benefit of using a 6.5" pad on a rotary compared to 7.5"? Or vice versa..
Click to expand...

Simple, less surface area means it will require less energy to rotate a pad under pressure over the surface. More surface area requires more energy to rotate the pad under pressure.

Have you bought a rotary buffer yet? If not, are you considering it?


:)
 
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