Coming from a rotary user, let me say this. DO NOT LET THE ROTATION OF THIS TYPE OF TOOL DETERMINE THE PURCHASE.
I was hesitant on buying a 3401 back in 2009 or so because of the rotation direction. After I got the tool in my hand, I quickly realized it didn’t matter at all. This type of tool you don’t have to worry so much about buffing into an edge or buffing off a high spot as much as a rotary. This tool will teach you how to hold a pad flat due to the nature of the tool.
The ONLY way IME the rotation matters is when picking up a bead of product.
So rather than decide on tool rotation, look at the other features of the tools and decide what’s best for you.
Thanks... Good information.
I'm at the place where you were 10 years ago - hesitant. But one difference today is that there is now a CW rotation tool available. That wasn't the case 10 years ago.
As for the "buffing into an edge" concern and not being as prevalent with this type of tool as with a rotary, I presume that is true and perfectly logical. Nonetheless, in my eyes it is never a good practice regardless of machine type. Even with a random orbital it is something I refrain from.
To illustrate that point, the next time you have a black car (straight black, not metallic) grab your go-to DA, random or gear driven, doesn't matter. Polish along a door edge, or any other edge or pronounced body line, with a perfectly flat pad overhanging the edge up to half of the pad diameter. Note that overhanging this far is only for illustrative purposes and not recommended as a normal practice.
One side of the pad will be rotating "away from" and the other side will be rotating "into" the edge. With a perfectly flat pad the pressure or force should be equal on each side of the pad.
Then grab your inspection light and closely inspect the polished edge and the first 1/8" or so of the panel. I can almost guarantee that you will see traces of marring/scratching along that edge and into the panel. The cause... The side of the pad rotating "into" the edge.
The less the pad overhang, the less pronounced the marring/scratching will be, as the angle-of-attack is shallower, but the marring/scratching will still be occurring to some degree nevertheless, as the pad wants to "grab" the edge.
It is for that reason that some tilt of the pad is desired at edges and body lines; to prevent the pad from rotating "into" and "grabbing" the edge.
My feelings regarding the relationship between tilt and rotation are expressed in post #18 and they still stand. Only a "test drive" might change my mind and prove my concerns unwarranted.
Gotta say... the deeper into this I get, the more I'm leaning towards the Rupes.