From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

[Klasse Act]

Thank you^^^^^️️

I'm leary to "try" and replicate it but I always make sure the car is warmed up, brain fart on me and also the owner of the shop doing the dyno, either of is thought about it.

I've NEVER felt anything breaking up but I'm not WOT in 4th too often either

The tuner thinks I hit a good number when infact I hit NO NUMBER because the car wouldn't let me

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[oneheadlite]

Thank you^^^^^️️

I'm leary to "try" and replicate it but I always make sure the car is warmed up, brain fart on me and also the owner of the shop doing the dyno, either of is thought about it.

I've NEVER felt anything breaking up but I'm not WOT in 4th too often either

The tuner thinks I hit a good number when infact I hit NO NUMBER because the car wouldn't let me

Is the dyno pull in question on video? If so, what time stamp? At work, so I can't watch at the moment but I'm curious to see what we're talking about.

 

[Klasse Act]

Is the dyno pull in question on video? If so, what time stamp? At work, so I can't watch at the moment but I'm curious to see what we're talking about.

I did post the video. It's a couple posts back and I don't remember what the time stamp is

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[oneheadlite]

I did post the video. It's a couple posts back and I don't remember what the time stamp is

Gotcha. I'll find it later and report back.

 

[Klasse Act]

Just for reference, here's my tach after my car running for 5 minutes before leaving work this afternoon. The orange slowly disappears as the car is driven/warmed up. Even once the orange is gone the engine temp was @175F and oil temp was @145F at that point, today's temp when leaving was 40F, about 5 degrees less than on the dyno day.

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[Klasse Act]

We're about to swap the coils...but first, oil changes on part of Hectour's fleet

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[Klasse Act]

Out with the new...

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[Klasse Act]

...and in the old

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[Desertnate]

Just for reference, here's my tach after my car running for 5 minutes before leaving work this afternoon. The orange slowly disappears as the car is driven/warmed up. Even once the orange is gone the engine temp was @175F and oil temp was @145F at that point, today's temp when leaving was 40F, about 5 degrees less than on the dyno day.

I think this points back to your original hypothesis and the similarities to many BMW M cars with their lighted tachs that change color. I think the last couple of Vette generations might do the same thing. There is likely some active measures in the ECU which protect the engine from pushing too hard until the oil temps are good. Basically doing automatically what many of us with less sophisticated cars do in practice. Almost like a soft rev limiter.

Hope you get everything running smoothly and you're happy with the performance.

 

[PouncingPanzer]

Well apart of me wants to go back there and dyno again but with it completely warmed up.

My buddy thinks it's the coils or tye tune. My thing is this, no signs of an "issue", this investigation could get expensive

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You need a scan tool on it while driving under load with a misfire counter displayed. That's what I would do with a VW if at the dealer still. The MIL will only come on once a criteria is met, i.e. enough misfires. A factory scantool would display the misfires. Or a scantool with that capability like a Snap-on Solus with the right Hyundai software. I'd be dying to see that.

I do miss diagnosing things like that the issue was all of my customers were under warranty still.....boo.

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[PouncingPanzer]

I think this points back to your original hypothesis and the similarities to many BMW M cars with their lighted tachs that change color. I think the last couple of Vette generations might do the same thing. There is likely some active measures in the ECU which protect the engine from pushing too hard until the oil temps are good. Basically doing automatically what many of us with less sophisticated cars do in practice. Almost like a soft rev limiter.

Hope you get everything running smoothly and you're happy with the performance.

I would definitely be proud of OEMs for doing such things, as I never heard of that being done in my tenure at VW. You could jump in your -20F Golf R and bounce it off the Rev limiter right away doing donuts in the Walmart parking lot and then a year later come in for oil consumption problems. No problem at all!!!! Lol.

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[Klasse Act]

You need a scan tool on it while driving under load with a misfire counter displayed. That's what I would do with a VW if at the dealer still. The MIL will only come on once a criteria is met, i.e. enough misfires. A factory scantool would display the misfires. Or a scantool with that capability like a Snap-on Solus with the right Hyundai software. I'd be dying to see that.

I do miss diagnosing things like that the issue was all of my customers were under warranty still.....boo.

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I wish I had such a tool or the dyno shop did

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[Desertnate]

I would definitely be proud of OEMs for doing such things, as I never heard of that being done in my tenure at VW. You could jump in your -20F Golf R and bounce it off the Rev limiter right away doing donuts in the Walmart parking lot and then a year later come in for oil consumption problems. No problem at all!!!! Lol.

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Unti Klasse mentioned it in this thread the only place I'd ever seen something like it was BMW M cars. On the tach there is a section starting near the top third (it varied by engine) which was lit. The lights either slowly went off one by one, or changed from red to yellow as the engine warmed up. I also think it would retard performance if you got into those danger zones until properly warmed up. The C8 Vette actually limits revs to 4K until break in is finished. The tach actually changes appearence on the screen. I belive I've read somewhere it does something similar when the engine is cold, but I don't have any real knowledge of them.

It was my experience like you describe with my Mk6 GTI that made me cautious. I heard too many accounts of people having turbo problems after beating on them when cold. Cold oil+fast spinning turbo = problems.

 

[PouncingPanzer]

I wish I had such a tool or the dyno shop did

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I know nothing about dynos, have never been to one let alone on one, but I am surprised they can justify the insanely expensive dyno but not able to read basic engine operating conditions as well. Just seems odd to me I feel the two go hand-in-hand. You could see anything you wanted, not just power produced.

I could use the misfire counter to justify the results of a de-carb service. Along with photos. The photos shocked the customers. The misfire counter pleased me. Lol.

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[PouncingPanzer]

Unti Klasse mentioned it in this thread the only place I'd ever seen something like it was BMW M cars. On the tach there is a section starting near the top third (it varied by engine) which was lit. The lights either slowly went off one by one, or changed from red to yellow as the engine warmed up. I also think it would retard performance if you got into those danger zones until properly warmed up. The C8 Vette actually limits revs to 4K until break in is finished. The tach actually changes appearence on the screen. I belive I've read somewhere it does something similar when the engine is cold, but I don't have any real knowledge of them.

It was my experience like you describe with my Mk6 GTI that made me cautious. I heard too many accounts of people having turbo problems after beating on them when cold. Cold oil+fast spinning turbo = problems.

We <3 hot oil and happy turbos. I sit and idle for a minute after parking my car like it's a diesel lol. TDI habits die hard. RIP Golf, whatever you are now.

My VWs have eaten the factory fill oils(Castrol Edge). It is the piston rings though in this case that's been a 2.0TSI thing since gen 1, here we are on gen 4. At 500hp or more the rings are usually what tap out first when they fracture. Suddenly you gotta fill the oil when you fill you fuel tank hahaha. The Honeywell turbos have also had their consumption issues as well but like the piston ring issue top-shelf oils like Motul and Amsoil stop it cold. Can confirm.

Additionally, I recall at Ohio Diesel College we would warm the oil for some shop engines for start-up on the stands. 15W-40 Rotella in a cold shop doesn't flow the best.

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[oneheadlite]

I wish I had such a tool or the dyno shop did

Get yourself an Autel MaxiAP AP200. <$70. Comes with lifetime subscription for one brand and you can purchase year subscriptions for others. Reads faults, clears faults, (in my experience, though only Audi/BMW/mini) reads all the value blocks available to factory scan tools. Can do electronic parking brake work, reset service indicators, and register battery replacements. Plus more, but that's mainly what I've used it for. Bluetooth dongle, works with your phone. I've been really happy with mine.

Unti Klasse mentioned it in this thread the only place I'd ever seen something like it was BMW M cars. On the tach there is a section starting near the top third (it varied by engine) which was lit. The lights either slowly went off one by one, or changed from red to yellow as the engine warmed up. I also think it would retard performance if you got into those danger zones until properly warmed up. ...

On the M cars it's just a reminder to not hoon, there's no interference if you wanted to ping 8400 ice cold...

Klasse - Tried to listen close in the video but couldn't really make out much. I will say if the car is breaking up, that seems like it would be a hard part issue not a software thing - factory programming is going to do all it can to protect the catalytic converter, so it's not going to go into ignition (or likely even dramatic fuel) cut to limit power or RPM.

Only other thing I could think of would be if traction control was intervening on the dyno since you've got snow tires on a steel drum.

How's it been with the old coils back in? Maybe see if the Dyno house will show you some love and let you come back in for some pulls? Even if you had to pay again it would be good to know that your issue is resolved.

 

[Klasse Act]

Get yourself an Autel MaxiAP AP200. <$70. Comes with lifetime subscription for one brand and you can purchase year subscriptions for others. Reads faults, clears faults, (in my experience, though only Audi/BMW/mini) reads all the value blocks available to factory scan tools. Can do electronic parking brake work, reset service indicators, and register battery replacements. Plus more, but that's mainly what I've used it for. Bluetooth dongle, works with your phone. I've been really happy with mine.




On the M cars it's just a reminder to not hoon, there's no interference if you wanted to ping 8400 ice cold...

Klasse - Tried to listen close in the video but couldn't really make out much. I will say if the car is breaking up, that seems like it would be a hard part issue not a software thing - factory programming is going to do all it can to protect the catalytic converter, so it's not going to go into ignition (or likely even dramatic fuel) cut to limit power or RPM.

Only other thing I could think of would be if traction control was intervening on the dyno since you've got snow tires on a steel drum.

How's it been with the old coils back in? Maybe see if the Dyno house will show you some love and let you come back in for some pulls? Even if you had to pay again it would be good to know that your issue is resolved.

My buddy's car was running winter too but that was a good call though

I will be going back to the dyno soon and as far as how the car feels, well, I haven't even swung past the nearest industrial sub for a 0-60 pull yet, that said the 225 winter tires pale in comparison to my KN Pirelli's 235 and my "waiting for duty" Michelin Pilot Sport 4s w/6750 miles on them. My best 0-60 with the KN set up was 5.4 sec and the Michelin X-Ice's had me getting a 5.7 second time, never did a 0-60 pull with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, bad on me

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[oneheadlite]

...
I will be going back to the dyno soon and as far as how the car feels, well, I haven't even swung past the nearest industrial sub for a 0-60 pull yet, that said the 225 winter tires pale in comparison to my KN Pirelli's 235 and my "waiting for duty" Michelin Pilot Sport 4s w/6750 miles on them. My best 0-60 with the KN set up was 5.4 sec and the Michelin X-Ice's had me getting a 5.7 second time, never did a 0-60 pull with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, bad on me

Remember though, it's not the off the line blitz, it's the higher gear/high load longer pull I'm curious about. :xyxthumbs:

 

[Klasse Act]

Remember though, it's not the off the line blitz I'm curious about, it's the higher gear/high load longer pull I'm curious about. :xyxthumbs:

Oh yeah, that ALL I care about at this point because it's where my EN stumbled a bit, atleast it never through a code

I'll never know for sure if it was the car being warmed all the way up or the coils, either way I'll know what it makes HP/TQ wise

My tuner has offered to upgrade me from Stage 1 to Stage 2 for free (just pay the shipping) because he thought I was unhappy with my numbers but when infact I didn't really GET a number, LOL. I would need the upgraded HPFP from the 2.5T from the Sonata N-line to compensate for more boost/power, another $550...stay "tuned"

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[Klasse Act]

Bought this yesterday for my EN. My buddy Marcin has the complete cat-back from Stillen, I opted for just the mid-pipe because I'm trying to keep it "OEM+". The piping is a little larger but the important part is NO resonator. Now you may be asking..."what about drone?". Well in NORMAL or ECO mode there's none but in N mode it has more bark, pops and bangs, my daughter loves when it does it now and I promised her this makes it even BETTER️

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