Getting new car...need advice.

[Bonesteel]

I have a 2016 Crystal Black Silica Subaru WRX coming in the news couple of weeks. I'm going to tell the dealer (out of state) not to bother washing it, for obvious reasons, but it's also going to be shipped to me, another 1300 miles from the dealer. Obviously, I can't really know exactly what will be needed, but I'm hoping I won't have to do any major correction.

I'm pretty new to machine polishing, and I recently bought the PC 7424XP. I used it on my '09 Scion xB that had been pretty neglected. I figure the paint is probably very similar in thickness and hardness. I used an orange 5.5" CG Hex Logic pad (cleaned and dried a couple times over 2 days) and mostly an old bottle of 3M Perfect It Swirl Mark Remover. I also tried the Meguiars Ultimate Compound in some tough spots...it definitely wasn't as rough as I was expecting. I had used the 3M Rubbing Compound by hand in the past, and it had a lot more cut.

In preparation for the WRX, I bought a bottle of Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. I'm pretty sure that will do the trick, but if not, I can use the Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

The LSP will be Blackfire Crystal Coat.

I need to order pads. Considering new car, WGFG and 7424xp, what would you guys recommend. I'm thinking 5.5" Lake Country Flats...white and black. Would the WGFG be better suited for white or black? Should I pick up a few orange in case I have to use the Meguiars compound or would white be ok?

 

[GSKR]

Wait till you see the car first then order pads.

 

[custmsprty]

Black is a waste of time, that's for LSP's. Get 3 orange and 3 white and you'll be good to go for a little while.

 

[builthatch]

I have a 2016 Crystal Black Silica Subaru WRX coming in the news couple of weeks. I'm going to tell the dealer (out of state) not to bother washing it, for obvious reasons, but it's also going to be shipped to me, another 1300 miles from the dealer. Obviously, I can't really know exactly what will be needed, but I'm hoping I won't have to do any major correction.

I'm pretty new to machine polishing, and I recently bought the PC 7424XP. I used it on my '09 Scion xB that had been pretty neglected. I figure the paint is probably very similar in thickness and hardness. I used an orange 5.5" CG Hex Logic pad (cleaned and dried a couple times over 2 days) and mostly an old bottle of 3M Perfect It Swirl Mark Remover. I also tried the Meguiars Ultimate Compound in some tough spots...it definitely wasn't as rough as I was expecting. I had used the 3M Rubbing Compound by hand in the past, and it had a lot more cut.

In preparation for the WRX, I bought a bottle of Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. I'm pretty sure that will do the trick, but if not, I can use the Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

The LSP will be Blackfire Crystal Coat.

I need to order pads. Considering new car, WGFG and 7424xp, what would you guys recommend. I'm thinking 5.5" Lake Country Flats...white and black. Would the WGFG be better suited for white or black? Should I pick up a few orange in case I have to use the Meguiars compound or would white be ok?

heads up: ask them to remove the covering to inspect the paint as part of their visual inspection for basic prep and reapply it for shipment. they do not have to wash the car.

if there are issues with the paint due to port damage, manufacturing, etc...even if they pop up later, SOA will try their damndest to hold you responsible and will have grounds for that if you don't allow them a visual inspection. i can't tell you more detail that than but trust me.

 

[Bonesteel]

Wait till you see the car first then order pads.

I'd really like to be able to knock it out as soon as I take delivery. I want it coated ASAP.

heads up: ask them to remove the covering to inspect the paint as part of their visual inspection for basic prep and reapply it for shipment. they do not have to wash the car.

if there are issues with the paint due to port damage, manufacturing, etc...even if they pop up later, SOA will try their damndest to hold you responsible and will have grounds for that if you don't allow them a visual inspection. i can't tell you more detail that than but trust me.

I understand. I work at a Toyota dealer and do pre delivery inspections frequently. I definitely want them to look it over. I will say that in 10 years or so, I've seen only 2-3 cars come with paint/body defects, and they were dents caused by the shipping companies. I don't recall ever finding a paint defect under the wrap, but Murphy's law always applies...especially when it's my new car. I bought a new S10 Xtreme in '03 that had an pretty deep scratch on the bedside and clear coat peeling on the rear bumper. It was repaired under warranty.

 

[Klasse Act]

Black is a waste of time, that's for LSP's. Get 3 orange and 3 white and you'll be good to go for a little while.

I agree but with all that time on the back of a truck I would make sure you have some IronX and a speedy prep towel (fine grade) for pre-polish prep.

 

[Bonesteel]

I agree but with all that time on the back of a truck I would make sure you have some IronX and a speedy prep towel (fine grade) for pre-polish prep.

I plan on ordering some IronX, and I have the Autoscrub fine sponge and pad for the DA. I used the sponge on my xB a few weeks ago. I wasn't brave enough to try the pad on the DA, but the sponge was incredibly easy to use.

 

[Klasse Act]

I would never use a DA to decontaminate the paint, too much picking up and putting down the machine.

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[Bonesteel]

I would never use a DA to decontaminate the paint, too much picking up and putting down the machine.

Yeah. Honestly, I've thought about returning the pad because I really don't see the need after using the sponge. It made the decon a breeze, and my xB was a gritty mess. I should have used IronX on it, but I didn't know about it at the time.

 

[Zubair]

Black is a waste of time, that's for LSP's. Get 3 orange and 3 white and you'll be good to go for a little while.

Once corrected the black pad with the WGFG can finish off to an ultra high shine. If the OP intends to correct with the black I agree however if he wants to take the extra step after correcting, the black pad will jewel nicely.

 

[BRZBYE]

I have a CBS BRZ you're going to love that WRX!


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[Danny9447537]

Hey! Congratulations! From experience, Subaru paint is thin and is very susceptible to rock chips and micro scratches/swirls. Theres no need to go more aggressive than Wolfgang Finishing Glaze or Menzerna 4000 followed by 4500. First time I did it I made the mistake of using ONLY one 6.5" LC white polishing pad for my car. I got pretty decent results but it could've been far better to use MULTIPLE 5" LC white hybrid pads. If you like to travel or live in an area where you're constantly behind trucks then I suggest some sort of paint protection film.

I forgot to mention that I used a Flex 3401 w/ the LC 4" interchangeable backing plate system.

I'm about to redo my vehicle and this time use Cquartz UK to protect it for the winter. Best of luck to you!

Here's a recent detail I did on my vehicle.

 

[Bonesteel]

...If you like to travel or live in an area where you're constantly behind trucks then I suggest some sort of paint protection film.

I always hate the look of film, but it would be worth my while probably. I work at a Toyota dealership. I had already planned on doing the door cups, but I can get the front done at work for around $400 or so.

If I do go that route, should I wait to apply the Crystal Coat?

 

[GSKR]

Yes cause there gonna use your car as a work table when installing this film seen it a million times.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's my advice, read these two articles...

How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips


and this one...

DON'T WASH CAR !!!!!!!!!!!


I can no longer count how many people that have come to this forum to share their NIGHTMARE experience of taking their brand new car back to the dealership for some form of REGULAR MAINTENANCE only to have the car wash guy or the detailer totally scratch and swirl out the paint.

So read the Don't Wash Car article and don't forget the advice shared in it before taking your car to the dealership.

Besides that...

Get a foam gun and learn how to wash and dry your car carefully. The reason why is because for most people, it's how the car is washed and dried that create the majority of swirls and scratches in the paint over time.

I teach the Gentle Approach for washing a car in my ACR 3-day detailing classes and have a brand new video explaining this on our Roku channel.

 

[Danny9447537]

I always hate the look of film, but it would be worth my while probably. I work at a Toyota dealership. I had already planned on doing the door cups, but I can get the front done at work for around $400 or so.

If I do go that route, should I wait to apply the Crystal Coat?

Yes, if you go that route then you want to wait to apply any kind of coating.

 

[cardaddy]

Black is a waste of time, that's for LSP's. Get 3 orange and 3 white and you'll be good to go for a little while.

:iagree: It'd be a good start.

Although I'd say go ahead and get a dozen pads. Been trying to get AG to offer a "Detailers Dozen" for years now. (Like a bakers dozen... with 13.)

When you start compounding you'll need at least 4, f not 6 of your compounding pad. Polishing pad will be half that amount (give or take).

So say you get 4 orange, 4 white, you could then get 2 blue and 2 black.

I wouldn't go in however thinking that orange pads are the ones you absolutely will end up compounding with. By and large however... orange, and especially white pads get the most use. Both can work for compounding and polishing steps very well.

heads up: ask them to remove the covering to inspect the paint as part of their visual inspection for basic prep and reapply it for shipment. they do not have to wash the car.

if there are issues with the paint due to port damage, manufacturing, etc...even if they pop up later, SOA will try their damndest to hold you responsible and will have grounds for that if you don't allow them a visual inspection. i can't tell you more detail that than but trust me.

:iagree:WITH :whs:

They MUST do a delivery inspection both to CTA and CYA.

I would never use a DA to decontaminate the paint, too much picking up and putting down the machine.

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Really?

I mean I understand if you're laying the machine on the ground, but on a cart (or a towel on the car) it should be fine using the machine for *Nanoskin type* decon duties. Done it for years without any problems.

Then again... I VERY RARELY do a complete decon on anything that isn't getting buffed.

Hey! Congratulations! From experience, Subaru paint is thin and is very susceptible to rock chips and micro scratches/swirls. Theres no need to go more aggressive than Wolfgang Finishing Glaze or Menzerna 4000 followed by 4500. First time I did it I made the mistake of using ONLY one 6.5" LC white polishing pad for my car. I got pretty decent results but it could've been far better to use MULTIPLE 5" LC white hybrid pads. If you like to travel or live in an area where you're constantly behind trucks then I suggest some sort of paint protection film.

I forgot to mention that I used a Flex 3401 w/ the LC 4" interchangeable backing plate system.

I'm about to redo my vehicle and this time use Cquartz UK to protect it for the winter. Best of luck to you!

This is good info, from a Subie owner... that speaks a bit louder than someone that hasn't done Subie paint before. Might be a good idea to start a thread asking for Subaru owners recommendations on buffng, Subaru owners chime in, or something like that... just to get more 'hands on' input.

One of the most known subjects out there is how drastically soft Subaru paint is! Would be great to hear from a collection of folks that have been down that road before.

On the PPF... there are plenty of amazing films out there these days. With a premium film, and a good install it's hard to tell it's there from more than 6' away, if not impossible on some colors. OTOH, a full frontal wrap (up to the windshield) along with rockers, door cups, mirrors, a-pillars, in front and behind wheel wells, and top of the rear bumper can run $1500~$2500 depending on the installer and film. Not exactly cheap, but much better than a bumper, front fenders and hood full of chips that'll need repainting to the tune of several grand not all that far down the road. What is the old saying... Pay me now, or Pay me later!

 

[Klasse Act]

When your claying or using a clay towel you wanna feel what's going on under your hand and your just never ever going to get that with a machine, sorry. The concept makes NO sense to me, again, sorry.

I'm not calling anyone out here but when I first saw this on Griots site I laughed out loud, and said "how lazy can you be?"

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[cardaddy]

When your claying or using a clay towel you wanna feel what's going on under your hand and your just never ever going to get that with a machine, sorry. The concept makes NO sense to me, again, sorry.

I'm not calling anyone out here but when I first saw this on Griots site I laughed out loud, and said "how lazy can you be?"

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Hey... I hear ya' brother. Plenty of stories of folks marring their paint claying, or using some other neoprene type decon device. I only do it on surgically clean paint though, in that I've washed it, wiped it, soaped it again and wiped it as well as rinsed it. Then I'll use either a mild soap solution or lube of sorts.

I can tell ya'... once you try using a Nanoskin pad on a GG6 you'll never believe you were still doing it by hand. Can do an entire vehicle in 15 minutes. I'll do a section, say the hood, then rinse it. Then move to the roof, run it all, then rinse. Keep the vehicle wet pretty much the entire time. Once it's all done a final rinse then dry and you're good to go to whatever your next step is. (Which for me is some sort of buffing 8 outta 10 times.)

 

[Danny9447537]

Hey... I hear ya' brother. Plenty of stories of folks marring their paint claying, or using some other neoprene type decon device. I only do it on surgically clean paint though, in that I've washed it, wiped it, soaped it again and wiped it as well as rinsed it. Then I'll use either a mild soap solution or lube of sorts.

I can tell ya'... once you try using a Nanoskin pad on a GG6 you'll never believe you were still doing it by hand. Can do an entire vehicle in 15 minutes. I'll do a section, say the hood, then rinse it. Then move to the roof, run it all, then rinse. Keep the vehicle wet pretty much the entire time. Once it's all done a final rinse then dry and you're good to go to whatever your next step is. (Which for me is some sort of buffing 8 outta 10 times.)

I haven't tried the NanoSkin Pads but I've had a good time with the NanoSkin Fine Grade Towel. It would drastically cut down the claybarring process if I were to use the NanoSkin Sponge during the wash though. I need to check those out!