Glaze

Glazes should you feel the need for one for added pop to the paint should be applied as your last polishing step prior to the sealant.
 
masterpartha said:
Hey Thanks for replying.

So once I correct my paint with compounding and finishing polish, would I require glaze or cleaner wax?

Can I apply Lsp such as sealant or carnauba wax on top of cleaner wax?

If glaze lasts only for a day or a wash, why is Poorboys Blackhole and other company glazes so talked about? People comment how deep their shine became after the glaze etc.

Its all so confusing. :(

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Click to expand...

If your polishing (correcting) paint, you don't want to use a cleaner wax. The paint is clean from the polishing and claying you did prior to the polishing. You just want to apply a sealant, wax, or both in that order. You would always apply a wax over a sealant, never vice-versa - unless its a "spray sealant" (glorified QD).

You can use a glaze after your finishing polish (before sealant / wax) to add some pop or depth. Black Hole is very good. However, theoretically, if you did the paint correction correctly, you won't need it.

Doing a paint correction with a DA to a whole swirled out car is a BIG job. If your going through all that, keep it simple. Concentrate on doing the correction right and just apply a sealant or wax (or a sealant topped by a wax). Save the glaze for another time.

If your going to be polishing paint, you won't be needing a cleaner wax any more.
 
Calendyr said:
Are you sure about what you are saying?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDRwnhcZWoc]How To: Detailing Flow Chat - Detailing Steps - Chemical Guys Car Care - YouTube[/video]

If you look at the flowchart they suggest to apply the glaze right before the sealant.
Click to expand...


Czapski said:
Looking for something like this?
Click to expand...

Evan.J said:
Glazes should you feel the need for one for added pop to the paint should be applied as your last polishing step prior to the sealant.
Click to expand...







swanicyouth said:
If your polishing (correcting) paint, you don't want to use a cleaner wax. The paint is clean from the polishing and claying you did prior to the polishing. You just want to apply a sealant, wax, or both in that order. You would always apply a wax over a sealant, never vice-versa - unless its a "spray sealant" (glorified QD).
Click to expand...

Thanks guys for the detailed replies. Im loving every bit of the forum :) you all are so helpful.

My car's paint is the same green as the Fiesta sold in the US. And i think the paint is a bit on the harder side, since its difficult to induce swirls or marring on my paint, as compared to the paints on toyotas and hondas here. So i guess polishing with the DA will be a bit of a task.

So, Im going to be compounding my paint only once a year and polishing probably twice a year. Can i apply cleaner wax in between?

My detailer friend uses Megs Paint reconditioning cream on the cars he has previously detailed. Is that a cleaner wax, polish or glaze?

Will a glaze be removed by an Ipa or Eraser wipedown?

Does a glaze need to be applied with polishing pad or finishing pad?

And what is the final verdict on applying sealant on top of glaze? Because last night I saw @ZMCGOVERN's post of the camaro in which at the end he mentioned the word "glazed". So that also added a bit to my confusion.

Thanks again guys for all your help.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
masterpartha said:
Thanks guys for the detailed replies. Im loving every bit of the forum :) you all are so helpful.

My car's paint is the same green as the Fiesta sold in the US. And i think the paint is a bit on the harder side, since its difficult to induce swirls or marring on my paint, as compared to the paints on toyotas and hondas here. So i guess polishing with the DA will be a bit of a task.

So, Im going to be compounding my paint only once a year and polishing probably twice a year. Can i apply cleaner wax in between?

My detailer friend uses Megs Paint reconditioning cream on the cars he has previously detailed. Is that a cleaner wax, polish or glaze?

Will a glaze be removed by an Ipa or Eraser wipedown?

Does a glaze need to be applied with polishing pad or finishing pad?

And what is the final verdict on applying sealant on top of glaze? Because last night I saw @ZMCGOVERN's post of the camaro in which at the end he mentioned the word "glazed". So that also added a bit to my confusion.

Thanks again guys for all your help.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Click to expand...

OMG! Don't do that!!!!

Every time you compound and polish, you remove clearcoat. You only have so much of it on your car. Compound+Polish should be done once and then never again (if possible). Once you are done, you apply a sealant and wax to protect the clear coat that is now perfect (or close to it).

Waxes should be applied often, depending where you live and all I say about once every 2 weeks or at least once a month. If you wash the car more than once a week, spray wax every wash is what I would do and apply hand or machine wax every 2 week. For the sealant it depends what you use but I would do it twice a year, just before winter and just after winter.

And once you have polished the car and sealed the paint, don't use cleaner wax, use finishing wax. Cleaner wax is for paint that has not been compounded and polished, it cleans it and hides some of the imperfections. All of that is not needed if you have done a proper job. All you need now is protection, so get something that protects better and has no detergents, fillers and polishing agents in it.

HAve fun!
 
Ok since there seems to be some confusion on the term "Glaze" Here you go:
Non-Abrasive Glaze or Pure Polish
Historically, the term glaze is used to describe a bodyshop safe, hand-applied liquid used to fill-in and mask fine swirls while creating a deep, wet shine on fresh paint. It's a category of products used on fresh paint in body shop environments, which will not seal the paint surface by depositing a long lasting sacrificial barrier coating using some type of protection ingredients.

A bodyshop safe glaze is used in place of a wax, sealant or coating because it won't interfere with the normal out-gassing process of fresh paint for the first 30 days of curing. The function of a bodyshop glaze is to hide rotary buffer swirls while giving the paint a uniform, just waxed appearance to ensure customer satisfaction. After 30 days cure time its normal to the seal the paint using a wax, paint sealant or coating.



Hiding Swirls
There's a number of reasons why historically body shops use a glaze on fresh paint to hide swirls. Most body shops are production oriented and perform a limited number of machine buffing steps due to time restrictions and profitability. This would include machine compounding with a wool pad and machine polishing with either a wool finishing pad or a foam polishing or finishing pad, both steps using rotary buffers.

The end results are normally excellent shine but with rotary buffer swirls in the paint, (also called holograms and/or rotary buffer trails), that can be seen in bright light. The glaze is normally hand-applied to fill-in and hide the swirls as hand application is fast and relatively effective as long as the swirls are shallow. This glazing procedure produces a finish that customers will accept at the time of vehicle pick-up. The results are somewhat misleading however because bodyshop glazes are water soluble and as such will wash off after a few car washes or repeated exposure to rainy weather and then the swirls will become visible. This is the standard and accepted practice in the body shop industry.


Note: Because there are no rules or regulations governing the definition or the use of the word glaze, manufactures and sellers of paint care products use the word glaze as a name for all types of products that are not true glazes in the historical sense of the word. Most common is the use of the word glaze in the name of a car wax or paint sealant.
Click to expand...

As always Mike puts everything into the best terms to understand so again here you go:

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The Difference Between a Cleaner/Wax and a Finishing Wax

Subtitle: How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project

Copyright ©PBMA - AutogeekOnline.net® All Rights Reserved​


Cleaner/Waxes
BootCampProd011.jpg


Finishing Waxes
BootCampProd009.jpg



Have you ever been confused as to which car wax to use? There are so many car waxes on the market and all of them claim to be the best? Some say they’ll last through 52 car washes? But are you waxing your car just so it will make it through 52 car washes? Or are you waxing your car because you want the paint to look good again? Like it did when it was new?

Or what if you’re taking your special ride to a car show or on a cruise? Do you really need a car wax that will bead water after 52 car washes or is there something better that will really make your car’s paint *POP* especially if hundreds and even thousands of people will be looking at it all day long while it’s on display?

2- basic groups of car wax
Let me see if I can remove just a little bit of the confusion… There are two basic groups most car waxes and paint sealants fall into, these would be,

• Cleaner/waxes or Cleaner/Sealants
• Finishing waxes or Finishing Sealants


A cleaner/wax or cleaning/sealant would offer some level of cleaning ability using either chemical cleaning agents, solvents and/or some type of abrasives and often times a combination of all three. Cleaner/Waxes are also referred to as One-Step products or All-In-One products. Cleaner/waxes can be used to restore neglected paint to good to excellent condition depending upon how bad of condition the paint is in and the cleaning ability or strength of the cleaning agents in the cleaner/wax.

A finishing wax or finishing sealant would not contain any ingredients with the intended ability to clean or abrade the paint. Products in this category should only be used on paint in excellent or brand new condition or neglected paints that have been previously cleaned and polished and thus restored to new or excellent condition.

Besides dividing products into two groups by whether they have the ability to clean the paint or not, paint protection products are also divided into two other groups or categories and that's car waxes or paint sealants.
Car Wax
Contains some kind of naturally occurring waxy type substance, for example Carnauba wax.

Paint Sealant
Made from synthetic or all man-made ingredients.

​
So from the above, we can have,
Cleaner/Waxes
A product that cleans, polishes and protects and contains natural protection ingredients like Carnauba

Cleaner/Sealants
A product that cleans, polishes and protects and uses all synthetic protection ingredients

Finishing Waxes
A product that offers no cleaning ability with the focus on maximizing beauty with the protection based upon naturally occurring ingredients.

Finishing Sealants
A product that offers no cleaning ability with the focus on maximizing beauty with the protection based upon synthetic ingredients.

Hybrids
There's one more group into which waxes and sealant fall into and that would be the hybrid category. Hybrids contain a combination of both natural and synthetic ingredients.

If we use the loose definition above for car waxes and paint sealants, (For the wax group the primary protection ingredients are naturally occurring waxy substances and for the sealant group the primary protection ingredients are man-made or synthetic substances), then since hybrid products use a combination of both it would seem natural to group them and place them into their own category with both words, wax and sealant used to describe the category.

My comment...
Since no one to my knowledge has ever separated and placed the different products on the market into their own categories I decided to step up to the plate and take a stab at it myself, feel free to create your own categories and write your won article if you feel so compelled.
​
Let's take an in-depth look at the two basic groups, (the hybrid products will also fit into either the cleaning or finishing group).


Cleaner/Wax or Cleaner/Sealant
Now a cleaner/wax is just that, the formula will contain a blend of chemical cleaners and often times some type of abrasives, either diminishing or non-diminishing.

Together the chemical cleaners and the abrasives will remove oxidation and road grime from the surface which will restore clarity and richness of color. At the same time they’ll leave behind a layer of protection to help lock in the shine and of course protect the paint from the elements.

When you go to your local auto parts stores, most of the retail waxes on the shelves do in fact fall into the cleaner/wax category as they are targeted at the average person and the average person is driving what we call a Daily Driver, that is the car they drive back and forth to work each day and most of the time it’s parked outside. Over time, the finish quality deteriorates and in order to restore it with just a single product you’ll want a cleaner/wax.

A cleaner/wax is also what we in the detailing industry call a One-Step product or an AIO.

AIO stands for All-In-One. AIO products will do multiple processes in one step, that is they will,

  1. Clean the surface
  2. Polish the paint to a high gloss
  3. Leave behind a layer of protection
The problem for the average Joe Consumer is that most retail products don’t specifically state what type of product they are? The tell you how to apply it, how long to let it dry and then how to remove it but they leave it wide open as to what the product is and how its best used.




A cleaner/wax is best used on a neglected finish because a neglected finish needs to be cleaned. Cleaner/Waxes, or All-In-One products are designed for a large market which includes do-it-yourselfers and detailers that want to restore a bright, shiny finish to the paint but want to do it in one-step. Their goal is to get a great looking finish without having to invest the time and effort associated with a multiple-step approach which usually includes,
  1. Dedicated compounding or paint cleaning step
  2. Dedicated polishing or glazing step
  3. Dedicated sealing step using a finishing wax or finishing paint sealant
Keep in mind besides the above 3 steps that are the norm for a multiple-step process, there's also,
  1. The washing and drying step
  2. The claying step if the car is parked outside a lot and has built-up above surface bonded contaminants. (Most daily drivers need to be clayed).
If we add the above two steps, (washing & drying step and claying step), together with the multiple 3-step approach that would make the average car detailing session 5 steps at a minimum.
  1. The washing and drying step
  2. The claying step if the car is parked outside a lot and has built-up above surface bonded contaminants. (Most daily drivers need to be clayed).
  3. Dedicated compounding or paint cleaning step
  4. Dedicated polishing or glazing step
  5. Dedicated sealing step using a finishing wax or paint sealant.
Because the majority of people in this world look at their car as a mode of transportation instead of an extension of their personality, its' easy to understand that most people want and only need a one-step cleaner/wax.

A cleaner/wax doesn't need to be used, and in most cases shouldn't be used, on a car in which the paint is in excellent condition, for example a brand new car or an older car in which the paint has been properly cleaned and polished. For finishes on both of these types of cars the paint would be better served using a finishing wax or finishing sealant.

Another example would be a brand new paint job after the regular 30 days air-cure waiting time. Brand new paint should look great after you pick it up from the painter but most painters will tell you to wait at least 30 days before sealing the paint with either a wax or paint sealant.

After the 30 days have passed, a finishing wax should be used not a cleaner/wax because theoretically, the paint is supposed to be in excellent condition so you shouldn't have to use any product with cleaners or abrasives in it.


Application Method
In most cases, a cleaner/wax type product needs to be worked over and into the surface. Cleaner/waxes are not wipe on, wipe off products. Part of the cleaning action comes from you either working the product over the surface and engaging the cleaning ingredients with the paint or you running an electric polisher and the polisher is engaging the cleaning ingredients against the paint. The worse condition the paint, the more you'll need to work the product.


Finishing Wax or Finishing Sealant
A finishing/wax is much different than a cleaner/wax. A finishing wax either doesn’t offer any cleaning ability at all, or at least not enough to be a usable feature of the product.

A finishing wax is just that, it’s a wax or paint sealant used to add the finishing touch to a car in which the paint is in excellent condition to start with and/or in situations where the owner has just cleaned and polished the paint to perfection and the next step would be to apply a finishing wax.

If you use a multiple step approach to polishing your car’s paint, that is you use a dedicated compound or SMR, which stands for Swirl Mark Remover, to first remove any defects like swirls and scratches, and then follow this with a polish to further refine the paint to show car quality status, then what you want next is a finishing wax, not a cleaner/wax.


Frosting on the cake

After all the hard work of claying, compounding and then polishing your car's paint to perfection is over... it's time to put the frosting on the cake...


Taking your car's finish to it's maximum potential
Assuming the paint on your car is truly in excellent condition, a finishing wax, sealant or hybrid will take your car’s paint to it's highest level or it's maximum potential.

An analogy would be,

Like frosting is to cake a finishing wax, sealant or hybrid is to a highly polished automotive finish...


Cake is good, but frosting on cake is better. It's the finishing touch or last step which creates a work of art to gaze upon and a taste heaven that's sweet and delicious...


If you were to use a cleaner/wax after using a dedicated cleaning and polishing process that would be what we call working backwards because you’re going back to the cleaning step and you’ve already done this step when you used the compound, polish or swirl mark remover.

What you should be doing, what you want to be doing is working forwards towards the goal, which is a show car finish. Thus you want to use a finishing wax, sealant or hybrid.




Application Method
  • Wipe-on, work in and then immediately wipe off with no drying time.
  • Wipe on, allow the product to dry and then wipe-off.
Since finishing waxes and paint sealants should really only be applied to a finishes in excellent condition, there's no need to aggressively work the product over the surface like you would a cleaner wax. With a finishing wax or sealant you would apply and spread the product out of a section of a panel and then work the product gently for 2-3 passes over each square inch just to evenly cover the paint. You would not work the product like you would a cleaner wax with the idea of trying to remove defects.

Finishing waxes and paint sealants are either wiped on, spread around and then immediately wiped off. On detailing discussion forums, these types of products are referred to as WOWO products.

Some manufactures recommends their products need to dry before removing, for these types of products you would apply and spread the product out to create a thin even coating and then allow this coating to fully dry before removing.


No wrong choice
It's important to note that one category isn't better than the other as both categories of products play important roles in the car world. The focus of this article was to explain these two different categories so anyone confused about waxes in general would have a better understanding of the two basic groups. And then the ultimate goal would be to help people to actually choose and use the correct wax for their application and goals.





List of Paint Protection Products

Here at Autogeek we care a great selection of both finishing waxes and cleaner/waxes, below you'll find a list for both types.


Cleaner/Waxes
Menzerna Sealing Wax APO 60
Collinite Paste Sapphire Auto Wax #73SS
Mothers California Gold Original Formula Carnauba Cleaner Wax
Poorboy’s World Polish with Carnauba (BLUE)
Poorboy's World Polish with 100% Carnauba
Collinite Liquid Sapphire Auto Wax SS216
Dodo Juice Need For Speed Cleaner Wax


Cleaner/Sealants
XMT 360 All In One Cleaner Wax
Griot's Garage One-Step Sealant
Klasse All-In-One Polish
Duragloss Polish & Cleaner 101
Finish Kare 215 One Step Cleaner & Surface Sealant
Finish Kare 2180 Ultra Poly Wipe Sealant Conditioner
Optimum Poli-Seal
Mother's FX Synwax Paste
Mother's FX Synwax Liquid
Mother's Reflections Advanced Car Wax
3M One Step Cleaner Wax


Finishing Waxes
Pinnacle Souverän Paste Wax
Pinnacle XMT 180 High Gloss Carnauba Paste Wax
Griot's Garage Best of Show Wax
Griot's Garage Carnauba Wax Stick
Finish Kare 2685 Pink Paste Wax
Collinite Paste Fleetwax # 885
Collinite Marque D’Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax #915
Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476
Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wax Liquid
Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax
Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax Machine Stick
Dodo Juice Banana Armour Hard Car Wax
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard Car Wax
Dodo Juice Diamond White Hard Wax
Dodo Juice Hard Candy Hard Wax
Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Soft Wax
Dodo Juice Orange Crush Soft Wax
Dodo Juice Purple Haze Soft Wax
Dodo Juice Rubbish Boy’s Juiced Edition Carnauba Wax
Dodo Juice Austintacious Soft Wax
P21S 100% Carnauba Wax
P21S Concours Carnauba Wax
S100 Carnauba Paste Wax
Mothers California Gold Pure Carnauba Car Wax
Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax
Poorboy's World Natty’s Paste Wax – BLUE
Poorboys World Natty’s Paste Wax – Red
Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax, 250 ml. Refillable Hardwood Pot
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
Mother's Power Wax



Finishing Sealants
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Duragloss Clear Coat Polish (CCP) #111
Finish Kare 218 Poly Wipe Sealant Conditioner
Griot's Garage Paint Sealant
Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection Boosted with Polycharger
Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax
3M Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax
3M Performance Finish
Meguiar's M21 Synthetic Sealant
NXT Tech Wax - Liquid
NXT Tech Wax - Paste
Liquid Glass Auto Polish
Poorboy's World EX-P Pure Sealant
DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant



Hybrid Cleaner Waxes/Sealants
Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #6 Cleaner/Wax
Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) # 105
Meguiar's M20 Polymer Sealant
Meguiar's ColorX
Meguiar's M66 Quick Detailer
Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
1Z Einszett Metallic Polish Wax
Duragloss Wet Look Paste Wax


Hybrid Finishing Waxes/Sealants
Wolfgang Füzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax
Pinnacle Liquid Souveran™ Car Wax
Mothers Reflections Advanced Top Coat
Poorboy's World EX Sealant with Carnauba
DP Max Wax
Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #26 Hi-Tech Paste Car Wax
Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Car Wax
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax
1Z Einszett Glanz Wax
Poorboy's World EX Sealant with Carnauba
Finish Kare 2685 Pink Paste Wax
3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax



Spray-on Paint Protectants

Spray-on Carnauba Waxes
Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Spray Wax
Flitz Waxx Speed Wax
Griot's Garage Spray-On Wax
Mother's California Gold Spray Wax
Poorboys World QW+ Quick Wax Plus



Spray-on Synthetic Paint Sealants
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant
Duragloss Aquawax - 22 ounce
Duragloss Aquawax - 128 ounce
Meguiar's NXT Generation Spray Wax
Mothers FX Engineered Spray Wax
Optimum Opti-Seal
Stoner SpeedBead One-Step Quick Wax



Spray-on Hybrids
Pinnacle XMT 360 Spray Wax
Four Star Ultimate Spray Wax Boosted with Polycharger
Meguiar's X-Press Liquid Wax
Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax
Mother's Reflections Advanced Spray Wax
Optimum Car Wax
Stoner Bead Max


Wheel Waxes
Detailer's Pride Wheel Glaze
Wheel Wax
Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant



Question: How many car waxes do you need?

"Car waxes and paint sealants are to men like shoes are to women, you can never have too many" - Mike Phillips


Resources
Main Store Webpage for Autogeek's Car Wax and Paint Sealants


:)
Click to expand...
 
really it depends on what you are doing and what your purpose is. If you are doing a full paint correction your glaze would have less impact do the fact most glazes are fillers, meaning if you didn't correct the scratch the glazes would round off the edge and fill the crack. Once filled you would apply a wax or sealant to protect the glaze and walooaaaaa your car looks like its paint corrected. Never put glaze over a sealant as the sun would eat up before you got down the street. I haven't tried any chemical guys products but I've only heard positive things about them so the would be a good try. I use blackfire gloss enhancing polish or pinnacle painwork cleansing lotion because they are both chemical polishes. To me they give you that added push of clarity on metallics or pearls that you can see them from farther away than without using them.
 
Are you really only supposed to compound/polish your car once if possible...? I understand the logic behind that but its just hard to imagine you would be limited to one or two corrections before taking off too much of the clear.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
 
gardnerr2 said:
Are you really only supposed to compound/polish your car once if possible...? I understand the logic behind that but its just hard to imagine you would be limited to one or two corrections before taking off too much of the clear.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Well if you think about it a factory clear coat is about the thickness of one sheet of a sticky note. So that's not much to work with in reality. So the less polishing and compound you do the better off you and your clear coat will be.

When your polishing you are removing clear coat though its a very small amount, your still removing some of the very little that you have to start with.

This is all based on a factory OEM backed in clear.
 
Just recently used Blacklight on a clients black car and the results were amazing!!
 
Evan.J said:
Ok since there seems to be some confusion on the term "Glaze" Here you go:


As always Mike puts everything into the best terms to understand so again here you go:
Click to expand...

Not sure you covered it... :) haha j/k

Sent from my VS840 4G using AG Online
 
silverfox said:
Several glazes are also cleaners especially the CG glazes so they aren't mutually exclusive. Some glazes are also sealants like BLacklight.

I only know of one pure glaze that stands alone. Unfortunately it's not being manufactured anymore.

Wet glaze 2.0.
Click to expand...

So you can't get it from DS or Amazon anymore?
 
Evan.J said:
Ok since there seems to be some confusion on the term "Glaze" Here you go:


As always Mike puts everything into the best terms to understand so again here you go:
Click to expand...

Hey Evan

Thanks for that detailed post. Atleast now the confusing part is over.

Time to detail :)

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
Farecla Micro Polish
Anything Menzerna 4000 and ⬆️
Evercoat Tripleglaze? Final finish
3m ultrafina
 
silverfox said:
Several glazes are also cleaners especially the CG glazes so they aren't mutually exclusive. Some glazes are also sealants like BLacklight.

I only know of one pure glaze that stands alone. Unfortunately it's not being manufactured anymore.

Wet glaze 2.0.
Click to expand...

I know this is now very old but Wet Glaze 2.0, from the ingredients, wouldn't be a glaze. It contains polymers common to many sealants. I have never used the product so I do not know how it performs but these ingredients should give it a durability not really expected of a glaze.
 
Tis true it has polymers and does offer a level of protection.
 
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