Glaze

dodo juice Lime Prime 'lite' is a great abrasive free glaze
 
hernandez.art13 said:
I always explain compound,polish,swirl remover as liquid sand paper.
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That worked in the old days but abrasive technology has improved so much over the last few years.

It used to be all compounds and even polishes would feel gritty if you felt them between your fingers. That's no longer the case as many compounds and polishes feel like hand lotion and cut as well as the old "Rocks in a Bottle" products but finish out looking like you just wiped wax off the paint.

Today's compounds and polishes and even cleaner/waxes for that matter make getting professional results simple and easy. In fact it really doesn't take much talent at all with the right products, pads and tools.

Before all this great new technology was available it used to be that a person actually needed some skill, experience and even talent.


But glazes? Most are either cleaner/waxes with the word glaze on them or some type of polish with the word glaze on them.

The topic glaze is kind of like the topic bonding.


:D
 
b0b said:
Are you really only supposed to compound/polish your car once if possible...? I understand the logic behind that but its just hard to imagine you would be limited to one or two corrections before taking off too much of the clear.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
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that really depends on just how aggressive you are with the compounds you're using. factory clearcoat is generally anywhere from 30-70 microns thick, and will vary not only from panel to panel, but over any given panel (its often particularly noticeable from top to bottom on vertical panels). paint hardness will also vary between manufacturers, and can also be affected by the age of the vehicle, exposure to sunlight etc. etc. This is why imo, correction should never be carried out without taking measurements with a paint gauge. in truth, I'm still not entirely sure where you guys draw a distinction between compounding and polishing, so i will simply say this. heavy compounding will remove significant amounts of clearcoat, and should therefore only be done when absolutely necessary. machine polishing with a light abrasive to remove wash swirls etc, will only remove a few microns of clearcoat and can therefore be carried out more frequently.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The topic glaze is kind of like the topic bonding.
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:iagree:

We don't bother with glazes because the term truly is without any universal meaning now. For goodness sakes, I have seen some brands claiming to have nano tech in their glaze, leading to months of protection - what was wrong with the term 'sealant'!?
 
I use to use glaze all the time, I have Adam's Brilliant Glaze. Since I got Pinnacle Souveran paste wax, there is no comparison in shine, depth, gloss whatever, so I'll just bust out my Pinnacle now and my Adam's BG is in the back of the closet.
 
Wet Glaze 2.0 is my fav and will produce jaw dropping results. I bought a case before they stopped production. CG EZ Creme is also very good and produces a nice glossy wet look. Both very easy to use and have decent longevity
 
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