got the small ones but the BIG swirls are still there...

C

Camron882

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.i actually am in the middle of buffing my car with a PC for the first time using chemical guys V34 and V36. I got got out the small swirls but now i have big ones, so now my pads are cleaning and i hope to finish thee doors, roof, deck lid, rear fenders and back bumper...then to apply JetSeal, blacklight, then 50/50 wax. I am wondering maybe the pad got clogged? im using the HexLogic yellow pad and CG V34 compound, then the orange pad with V36. i am only using 3 small dots on the pad instead of an X...what am i doing wrong, the first fender was FLAWLESS
 
Make sure the pad is turning when you cut. I put a small piece of painter's tape on the BP and watch for it to turn.

Could be you need a more aggressive combination.

Not all things come out. If they are really deep, might be best to leave or fill.
 
yes i primed the pad. on the first fender which was flawless, i used the orange pad and V36 which is meant for swirls and medium cutting...maybe the yellow pad and V34 are too heavy?
 
There are so many factors. What kind of car are you working on? whats the cut of the pad? How many passes are you making? What kind of pressure are you applying? Are you sure the pad is spinning? Like mentioned, mark a line on the backing plate to make sure it is turning. More information will help figure out what the problem is.
 
If the cut is too heavy, the result would be hazy - not swirled. That being said, I prefer MF for correction heavier than an orange foam. Can generally go straight to finishing without an intermediate polish step.
 
2000 mustang painted complete in 2005 at a body shop 4 coats of clear.the yellow pad is a compounding/cutting pad cant find a specific cut. 3-6 passes on 5-6 setting on the PC. moderate to no pressure and i can see it turning but i need to make a mark on it.
 
mjlinane said:
If the cut is too heavy, the result would be hazy - not swirled. That being said, I prefer MF for correction heavier than an orange foam. Can generally go straight to finishing without an intermediate polish step.
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MF?
 
gotcha....i know there is something im doing/not doing with the pads and products i have
 
Camron882 said:
I got got out the small swirls but now i have big ones,
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Just to double check because what you're calling swirls are in fact scratches, they usually look like they are in a circle but often times are in more or less straightlines, they just give the appearance of being circular from the light being used to expose them.


Check out these two articles...

Tracers Tracers - RIDS - Pigtails - Cobweb Swirls - Rotary Buffer Swirls - Holograms - Water Spots - Bird Drooping Etchings - Micro-Marring


RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


:)
 
mine look almost like if you hand waxed a car and had something on the pad that made circular scratches....the straight scratches on the fender are being a pain also..how would i remove them, just keep going over it with the yellow pad and heavy cut compound?
 
Has the car been painted and then sanded and buffed?

There are scratches called,

Arc Scratches - Look like a half circles or so, these come from compounding with a rotary buffer

Tracers - Deeper straight scratches left behind after hand-sanding



:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Has the car been painted and then sanded and buffed?

There are scratches called,

Arc Scratches - Look like a half circles or so, these come from compounding with a rotary buffer

Tracers - Deeper straight scratches left behind after hand-sanding



:)
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yes the car was wet sanded after an accident in 07..what my best route with what i have to use?
 
Did you say you were using little pressure? If so, that is your problem. To cut and get swirls, scratches, and marks out you must use about 15-20 pounds of pressure. Use a scale and put your machine on it to see what it feels like. 15-20 pounds of pressure is a lot of pressure. With my Griots machine, which is a very powerful DA, this amount of pressure almost stops the pad from rotating.

The other mistake I have seen many make is using too much material. I like priming it, but after that you must not use too much material. If so you will be filling instead of cutting. Hope it helps.
 
chevchenko said:
Did you say you were using little pressure? If so, that is your problem. To cut and get swirls, scratches, and marks out you must use about 15-20 pounds of pressure. Use a scale and put your machine on it to see what it feels like. 15-20 pounds of pressure is a lot of pressure. With my Griots machine, which is a very powerful DA, this amount of pressure almost stops the pad from rotating.

The other mistake I have seen many make is using too much material. I like priming it, but after that you must not use too much material. If so you will be filling instead of cutting. Hope it helps.
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thanks i will lay on the pressure tomorrow and prime it more..what they best way to prime a pad? ive just been spraying the pad prep and then applying the material
 
since this is your first time detailing i would watch some more videos on how to compound/polish a car with a DA.

do a test spot!!!! don't do the whole car, cause you will be upset with the results. Test 4-6 slow passes in a 12"12" area with different product/pads.

I tend to use 4-6 passes in a 16x16" area. I have to remind myself to slow down. I use typical i find most daily drivers need megs ultimate compound with orange pad. Sometimes i bring out m105 with orange/cyan or surbuff pads if i want more cut. Always follow compound with a polish i like megs m205 with white lc or tangerine hydro pad.


Don't expect perfect reuslts the first time. it takes a good 10-15 hours to really get the hang of a DA. after the 4-5 car you do you will feel like a pro. just remember slow passes in small areas.
 
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