Gtechniq EXO - IN STOCK!

Yeah I would agree, it's really smooth not so much slick. If it beads water like the videos I've been watching I'll be more then happy.
 
Dragonfueled said:
Well I finished up last night. I did my pearl white 2012 rav4 in my garage under flourescent lights. It was about 85 degrees and I had my dehumidifier running as usual.
I started with a dawn wash. Then a DuPont prepsol wipe down. Finished up with another wipe down of carpro eraser. I wanted to make sure it was clean as possible.
I started applying the exo and noticed rite away it was tough to see on the white paint. I almost couldn't tell if it was being applied or not.
I also noticed that it disappeared rite away. I wiped each panel after application but didnt see the need to cause like I said it seamed to just vanish. Maybe the dehumidifier allowed it to cure faster?
I did two coats plus windows.

My first observations are that it doesn't really look much different then it did after the wipe downs of solvent. It's a new car though so it allready looked great.
I think carnuba feels more slick to me but it's hard to tell honestly. I'm gonna let it sit for the 48 hours in the garage before I pull it out.
I think I did all I could to prep for it so I feel confident it will last.
I'll post back after it gets rained on lol


One question I never had answered. Will a waterless car wash product like ultima waterless wash have and negative affect on the exo. I know it has some kind of poly booster so I'm guessing it might leave something over the exo.

It's gonna be hard not to wanna wax this thing lol but winter will be here before we know it and that will be my true test for it.
So far it's pretty awesome stuff.
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not a massive fan of waterless wash products but it's not going to damage the EXO.

Fair comment on finding it hard to see where you went with the coating on white. It is! But with x2 layers you will have coated everywhere at least once. Even a badly applied single coat really gives good durability.

For it not changing the look. The look of a finish is 90% down to the prep but having said that our network of Accredited Detailers here in the UK are giving very positive feedback on the look given by EXO. the function of a LSP is to lock in that finish and maintain the quality of the finish for as long as possible. This is where prods such as c1 and EXO score big.
 
would a rinseless wash (such as blackfire) be OK as a quick maintenance wash in between using Gwash.

gtechrob said:
not a massive fan of waterless wash products but it's not going to damage the EXO.

Fair comment on finding it hard to see where you went with the coating on white. It is! But with x2 layers you will have coated everywhere at least once. Even a badly applied single coat really gives good durability.

For it not changing the look. The look of a finish is 90% down to the prep but having said that our network of Accredited Detailers here in the UK are giving very positive feedback on the look given by EXO. the function of a LSP is to lock in that finish and maintain the quality of the finish for as long as possible. This is where prods such as c1 and EXO score big.
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Well, like everything else I could probably do it allot easier the second time around. Is it totally necessary to wipe it off rite after you apply it. Like I said I put it on and it disappeared on
Me almost instantly. I'm sure I didn't wipe off everywhere after I applied it but I don't see any streaks or anything. Probablly cause it's white haha if it was black maybe I would have mess.
Sorry for all the questions but it's something new ya know?
 
I think its a bad idea to use Carpro erasor after the body shop solvent wipe down. The body shop solvent is much more powerful than Erasor and its designed to evaporate 100% off the finish. Which is the main reason that its used as the last step right before paint is sprayed.

IME, Carpro leaves something slick and smooth on the finish, as well as anti-static. Now whether the drying/curing agents in a coating are powerful enough to wipe that away while being applied is likely, I would still follow instructions and know your products and work forward instead of backwards.

Also, my sedan is white, and its very difficult to see products being applied and removed. I have found that using not so powerful (250watt) lights along with a dark room is the best method. or around dusk with overhead lighting. Whenever I work on a white car I am sure to do twice the amount of wiping off of a product for the simple fact that you cant see very well. with a coating, I would think you for sure want to remove the residue....
 
Calibmw23 said:
would a rinseless wash (such as blackfire) be OK as a quick maintenance wash in between using Gwash.
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you just asked a question and quoted the answer from Rob in the same post..

... He just said its not going to damage the coating but he personally does not recommend it....

Now I see why the manufacturer's dont prefer to get so involved on the forums. the very same question is asked in 1000 different ways, with the answer remaining the same.
 
mg6045 said:
I think its a bad idea to use Carpro erasor after the body shop solvent wipe down. The body shop solvent is much more powerful than Erasor and its designed to evaporate 100% off the finish. Which is the main reason that its used as the last step right before paint is sprayed.

IME, Carpro leaves something slick and smooth on the finish, as well as anti-static. Now whether the drying/curing agents in a coating are powerful enough to wipe that away while being applied is likely, I would still follow instructions and know your products and work forward instead of backwards.

Also, my sedan is white, and its very difficult to see products being applied and removed. I have found that using not so powerful (250watt) lights along with a dark room is the best method. or around dusk with overhead lighting. Whenever I work on a white car I am sure to do twice the amount of wiping off of a product for the simple fact that you cant see very well. with a coating, I would think you for sure want to remove the residue....
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On the back of the prep sol container it says removes grease and silicone but shouldn't be the last step before painting. I asked my body guy and he said its because it could possibly leave a film. Carpro is an ipa and states on the bottle that it's for wiping down before using quartz product. I just figured it would remove any remnants of the prepsol and was designed to be used before a quartz product but not strong enough to be used as a stand alone solvent.

I'll try the dark room method. That makes sense to me as you could catch the light on an angle instead of bright lights all over thanks for the tip.
 
Did your body shop guy say what he would use?


Dragonfueled said:
On the back of the prep sol container it says removes grease and silicone but shouldn't be the last step before painting. I asked my body guy and he said its because it could possibly leave a film.
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Dragonfueled said:
I also noticed that it disappeared rite away. I wiped each panel after application but didnt see the need to cause like I said it seamed to just vanish. .
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I just finished putting 2 coat on my black Highlander. As far as vanishing, I noticed hazy streaks if not wiped down fully. I guess it was more noticable on black. So the question is, Do you wipe it down while still wet? I used a short pile edgeless polish removal towel for application and removal. It seemed better to use a softer short pile to buff instead of the ww/edgeless type. Application ws easy, it's like the fuzion of coatings. I will see tomorrow in the sun how it looks.

Last question. Is EXO basically adhered to the paint upon evaporation? Will aditional final buffs affect the layer. I had to go back and buff off the streaks with a little elbow grease.
 
Lou, you should knock it down right away. Good lighting is a must. Hope you didn't mar your black paint by rubbing too hard.
loudog2 said:
I just finished putting 2 coat on my black Highlander. As far as vanishing, I noticed hazy streaks if not wiped down fully. I guess it was more noticable on black. So the question is, Do you wipe it down while still wet? I used a short pile edgeless polish removal towel for application and removal. It seemed better to use a softer short pile to buff instead of the ww/edgeless type. Application ws easy, it's like the fuzion of coatings. I will see tomorrow in the sun how it looks.

Last question. Is EXO basically adhered to the paint upon evaporation? Will aditional final buffs affect the layer. I had to go back and buff off the streaks with a little elbow grease.
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for more application information see:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQB0oRKDJ_Y&feature=player_embedded]Gtechniq EXO Demonstration - YouTube[/video]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbmz25noz-o&feature=player_embedded]Gtechniq EXO Demonstration part II - YouTube[/video]
 
Rsurfer said:
Did your body shop guy say what he would use?


Dragonfueled said:
On the back of the prep sol container it says removes grease and silicone but shouldn't be the last step before painting. I asked my body guy and he said its because it could possibly leave a film.
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yeah there's a product called final wipe. I looked into it and it's basically expensive rubbing alcohol. People that bought it said they would of just used there own ipa mix if they did it again. Again though i think you gotta use something stronger like the prep sol to dissolve and then ipa for a nice clean surface.
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Dragonfueled said:
Rsurfer said:
Did your body shop guy say what he would use?




yeah there's a product called final wipe. I looked into it and it's basically expensive rubbing alcohol. People that bought it said they would of just used there own ipa mix if they did it again. Again though i think you gotta use something stronger like the prep sol to dissolve and then ipa for a nice clean surface.
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I think IPA is a good idea then. I just dont like the fact that Carpro erasor is definitely leaving something behind on the paint. It leaves a slick, smooth finish, so something is there. But again, like I said, its VERY negligible because the coatings are using there own drying/curing agents which are likely going to clean off the paint somewhat while wiping on.
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Dragonfueled said:
On the back of the prep sol container it says removes grease and silicone but shouldn't be the last step before painting. I asked my body guy and he said its because it could possibly leave a film. Carpro is an ipa and states on the bottle that it's for wiping down before using quartz product. I just figured it would remove any remnants of the prepsol and was designed to be used before a quartz product but not strong enough to be used as a stand alone solvent.

I'll try the dark room method. That makes sense to me as you could catch the light on an angle instead of bright lights all over thanks for the tip.
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This may sound strange, but you actually want a weaker light when checking white paint. Nothing over 250 watt IME. When you step up to the dual 500watt (1K total) lights, you actually get a snow blinding effect on the paint. You kind of drown out the defects with so much reflection and lighting. If the room is dark I can actually spot defects very well with just the lighting of the garage door opener.

The bottom line is that white kind of sucks to work on ! :) lol. I always seem to use more product when working on white compared to a black car..
 
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