Thanks guys.
Mikes hand sanding article confused me a bit
Do I use minimum pressure? Back and forth?
Any videos?
Thanks!
I cover hand sanding techniques in this video, note it has interviews interlaced throughout it. I show the X-pattern for hand sanding and explain why. This is a technique Rich Evans taught me years ago, seemed to make sense then and now...
Helping in the Heartland - Part 1 The Transformation
[video=youtube_share;p0kWtulPFxw&hd=1"]Helping in the Heartland - Part 1 The...[/video]
If you want to sand in straightlines, then use medium pressure to start with but lighten up as you finish out. You don't want to grind the abrasives into the paint.
Keep your strokes fast and close together as you move across the section you're sanding. Note that the farther away your hand moves from your body the harder it is to maintain the same downward pressure you can maintain when your hand is close to your body. (think about it)
Like mentioned, use a firm sanding backing pad for knocking down orange peel.
Try to finish out at at least #1500 to #2000 on Rustoleum paint and your sanding marks will buff out faster and easier.
This type of paint is very soft as compared to actual automotive clear paint so buffing out sanding marks isn't as hard.
That said, the hardest paint to work on is single stage white paint because the pigment is titanium dioxide powder and this pigment/mineral is hard so it makes the resin it is embodied into hard. It should still be fairly easy to buff out your sanding marks.
Tape-off raised body lines, I cover that in the video above especially when buffing on white paint as it will be hard to see where they're at with the slurry you'll create.
Looking forward to your results!
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