Having trouble with hard black paint

There are a few guys on here that have used 50% windex and 50% distilled water as a panel wipe.
You can also use IPA with the same mix ratio
It would at least rule out if your Gyeon prep is bad for some reason
 
Bosko said:
There are a few guys on here that have used 50% windex and 50% distilled water as a panel wipe.
You can also use IPA with the same mix ratio
It would at least rule out if your Gyeon prep is bad for some reason
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Got it. I’ll give the edgeless microfiber a shot first. I know Guz mentioned that my car potentially have soft paint. With what I’m dealing with, is it safe to conclude that my Audi does indeed have soft paint?
 
Make sure to wash your towels before use. Potentially add a little vinegar if you don’t have a microfiber wash. And never any fabric softener of any kind.
 
ToroInu said:
Got it. I’ll give the edgeless microfiber a shot first. I know Guz mentioned that my car potentially have soft paint. With what I’m dealing with, is it safe to conclude that my Audi does indeed have soft paint?
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Without being there this would be something to consider with the paint being soft and the aggressive cutting is leaving more marring than moderate to harder paints.

At the same time finishing out soft paint is a pain. Sometimes using a stiffer pad with a finishing polish or even using less product on the pad to limit the amount of abrasives. Also limiting the number of section passes. People think that they have to do more section passes then needed.

Those towels are not the towels I reach for when it comes to a panel wipe. The eagle edgeless hopefully solves that issue. You may want to go a bit heavier on the panel prep for added lubrication and let a majority flash off before a final wipe.

I believe I mentioned this earlier but this is where a primer polish is a lifesaver as it builds up on the surface leaving a ceramic layer that doesn’t require a heavy panel wipe.

Or better yet the Dr. Beasley’s NSP 45 which requires no panel wipe prior to applying a coating.

Keep us updated on the results.

Been through this on my uncles 2002 Corvette which was repainted and the paint is super soft compared to the original paint which was in the hard side. Same with my uncles white FJ. CarPro Essence was a lifesaver for both.
 
The Guz said:
Without being there this would be something to consider with the paint being soft and the aggressive cutting is leaving more marring than moderate to harder paints.

At the same time finishing out soft paint is a pain. Sometimes using a stiffer pad with a finishing polish or even using less product on the pad to limit the amount of abrasives. Also limiting the number of section passes. People think that they have to do more section passes then needed.

Those towels are not the towels I reach for when it comes to a panel wipe. The eagle edgeless hopefully solves that issue. You may want to go a bit heavier on the panel prep for added lubrication and let a majority flash off before a final wipe.

I believe I mentioned this earlier but this is where a primer polish is a lifesaver as it builds up on the surface leaving a ceramic layer that doesn’t require a heavy panel wipe.

Or better yet the Dr. Beasley’s NSP 45 which requires no panel wipe prior to applying a coating.

Keep us updated on the results.

Been through this on my uncles 2002 Corvette which was repainted and the paint is super soft compared to the original paint which was in the hard side. Same with my uncles white FJ. CarPro Essence was a lifesaver for both.
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Reason why im avoiding the CarPro essence is because it appears to contain SiO2 in it and my rear bumper was painted not too long ago. Not sure if it'll cause any off gas issues. Thats why I'm sticking with shop friendly products. Gtechniq also states that their products won't interfere with paint curing as well and can be used 72hr after fresh paint. I am however waiting 30 days before I fully correct the car which will be 2 more weeks from now. So now, Im doing test spots to find the most ideal products so I can buy all the right pads so when that time come, I won't run into anything surprises.

The edgless towels should show up any second now, and ill do a light pass with menzerna 3800 with less product and Gyeon prep wipe. Will update soon.
 
Update: Got the edgeless towels and wow these thing make wipe off so much easier. I did a side by side comparison to the pearl mf towels and there was deff more effort needed with those. I also did a side by side with similar wipe off strength and motion and saw the marring from the pearl towels after initial wipe off. When I follow with Gyeon prep, it just made it worst.

One wipe with the edgeless got almost 90-95% of the residue off. I also decreased the amount of product used on my g8 3in during the test spot. As mentioned, menzerna 3800 is oily so I reduce the initial amount to 3 smaller dots and only added 1 drop after each pass to reduce leftover oils to wipe off. Plenty of working time (even tho I only did 2 quick passes) and was enough to take off the old CSL as well. The results were almost spotless for what my eye can see under the 3 light temperatures on the speedster swirl finder.

Thanks to all for chiming in and Guz for calling out the soft paint when I thought Audi had rock hard paint.

Do you think I should use the edgeless 365 during the level/buff phase when ceramic coating too?
 
Nice to hear that the new towels worked and cutting back on the amount of abrasives helped out. The edgeless 365 towels will work for leveling a coating. What other towels do you have?
 
The Guz said:
Nice to hear that the new towels worked and cutting back on the amount of abrasives helped out. The edgeless 365 towels will work for leveling a coating. What other towels do you have?
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I have multipurpose 300 gsm, pearl, and edgeless 365 all from rag company. To my knowledge, the pearl green towels are advertised for leveling/buffing ceramic coating but not sure if I can rely on them since they scratch the paint post polish.
 
If it is the edgeless 300's those should work. Try it on a small section first. If those don't work then the 365's will work for sure. I tried the pearl and I was not a fan of them.
 
Glad to hear you got to the bottom this....towels can drive you nuts.
I run into issue doing windows all the time with certain towels.
Find what works, and go buy 30 of them......LOL


post up some pics when you are done
 
I know you have figured it out at this point. But I have had great 1 step results using a 3401 Buff N Shine Blueberry pad with Menzerna 400
 
The Guz said:
If it is the edgeless 300's those should work. Try it on a small section first. If those don't work then the 365's will work for sure. I tried the pearl and I was not a fan of them.
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They are not the edgeles. They are just general multipurpose mf towels 300gsm 80/20 marketed by TRC. I’ll likely buy some more edgeless 365 for leveling and general use.

I’m also thinking about switching to Gtechniq panel wipe since I’m running low on Gyeon prep. Also heard panel wipe will do a better job ripping off oils/polishes with less product and one wipe to reduce additional contact to the paint
 
Bosko said:
Glad to hear you got to the bottom this....towels can drive you nuts.
I run into issue doing windows all the time with certain towels.
Find what works, and go buy 30 of them......LOL


post up some pics when you are done
Click to expand...

I’ve always thought a mf towel is a mf towel. How wrong was I….

As much as I like to correct the whole car now, I still want to wait another 2 weeks for that 30 day mark on my repainted bumper. Heard it should be fine but just playing it safe.

So I’ll just have to drive around with patches of test spot until then. Another reason why I chose the door panel as the test spot as it doesnt come in contact with the sun/rain as much as the hood
 
Be aware that Gtechniq panel wipe is strong and that it will marr soft paint. It’s been recommended to dilute it 1:1 for softer paints.
 
The Guz said:
Be aware that Gtechniq panel wipe is strong and that it will marr soft paint. It’s been recommended to dilute it 1:1 for softer paints.
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I heard it’s strong stuff and I was planning to spray it onto a Mf towel to perform the wipe off as opposed to on the panel with Gyeon prep. I’ll keep that in mind.

Would you suggest me going with Gyeon prep again or maybe Carpro eraser? I know a lot of detailers use eraser and prep as an ipa wipe before applying a coating
 
ToroInu said:
I heard it’s strong stuff and I was planning to spray it onto a Mf towel to perform the wipe off as opposed to on the panel with Gyeon prep. I’ll keep that in mind.
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That won’t make a difference.
 
ToroInu said:
Would the windex solution you mentioned earlier be the preferred method as a last wipe down for oils?
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That is one method.
But I use a 90% IPA...with @50% with distilled water...my preference.
You can go straight 90% if you want stronger, but I don't think it needs to be that strong to get the results you need.

With your paint, you may again have to do a test spot to see/get the results you are looking for.
 
ToroInu said:
I heard it’s strong stuff and I was planning to spray it onto a Mf towel to perform the wipe off as opposed to on the panel with Gyeon prep. I’ll keep that in mind.

Would you suggest me going with Gyeon prep again or maybe Carpro eraser? I know a lot of detailers use eraser and prep as an ipa wipe before applying a coating
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Just dilute it if you get panel wipe. I’ve moved to the gallon of Meguiar’s M122 surface prep for a panel.

Eraser is good as well.
 
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