Having trouble with hard black paint

I use Gyeon prep as my IPA wipe. I dont think its the products im thinking its maybe my technique.. ill try what Guz said about changing speeds and arm.

By chance do the imperfections look like it can be caused by "dry buffing"? I've been googling possibilities and ran into that topic. Looking back, I do recall the outer ring of my pads having little product. However, on the panel, I can clearly see the product being worked in circular motion.

Are you priming dry pads? If you aren’t do…. If your are focus in the edges. Technique is important but i doing a test spot with polish i woudn’t expect marring.

If you can’t figure it out give new products a try. Good luck.


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Can you put a masking tape line straight through the marring and then do a test of extremes?

One side try aggressive and the other go with fine polish and finish pads(black.red).

I'm not sure you have that old ceramic coating totally removed, this might help you see what each method is doing right on a HARD line so you know what direction to move.
how old are the pads?...you mentioned that your temps are 45-50....that is on the cold side.....how were they when you had the issue the first time?

I did the hard line test and can clearly see the old ceramic coat off. I could also feel the bare clear coat as it’s much less slick compared to the coating. To my surprise, the CSL actually fogged up a lot under a detailers light compared to the raw clear coat.

Pads were all brand new when performing the test with the G8. In terms of temps, 5 months ago when I ran into this issue, it was likely around 60-65 degrees since it was during the summer here in San Francisco.
 
Not necessarily. Soft paint can be tricky to finish out. In some cases yes a fine finishing polish can do it and in some cases soft paints like a stiffer pad. Also that menzerna polish is loaded with oils and it would not be my first choice prior to coating.

The other option is a primer polish like the Dr. Beasley's surface primer's, Gyeon Primer, CarPro Essence which finish out great on soft paints.

Mike Phillips is no longer with Autogeek but there is a few videos on the autoggek youtube channel with Mike providing how to's and tips.

Interesting. I do have a rupes yellow on my g9. I’ll through that on along with a medium cut cream such as the Koch chemie to see if that will do anything. Will also try that product in the g9 + orange.
 
G9
Griots correcting cream
orange pads

All I got left as a solution.....Got to change what you have been using
 
G9
Griots correcting cream
orange pads

All I got left as a solution.....Got to change what you have been using

Just took the g9 out today. Used it with a yellow rupes and medium cut polish. I also changed my technique to only focus on vertical passes and no horizontal. I also did wipe off in 2x light circular motion passes. Then I did Gyeon prep wipe in only vertical wipes.

I did start noticing very very small vertical mars after Gyeon prep. I’m currently using rag company pearl Mf towels. I just ordered some edgeless 365 to see if they’ll do the trick too.

I got the best results and didn’t see any of those marring I use to get. Not sure which variable did the trick but it seems to be getting the job done atm.

Is the yellow rupes similar to griots yellow? Asking because I plan to buy a 5in backing and new pads for the g9 as well as more for the g8. I would prefer to stick with the boss pads since they sell 6-packs
 
Yes the yellow are both finishing pads for each company.
Wouldn't it be crazy if it's your towels........:doh:

I know Griots blue edgeless are softer than Ron Jeremy after an arrest warrant :D
 
Yes the yellow are both finishing pads for each company.
Wouldn't it be crazy if it's your towels........:doh:

I know Griots blue edgeless are softer than Ron Jeremy after an arrest warrant :D

They should arrive today with Amazon same day shipping. However, I did do the same wipe off technique previously to test marring. Vertical wipes, however I didn’t necessarily test the “2x light circular motion.”

I’ll do few more test before commiting to new pads. I currently have 3x yellow rupes and 2x orange boss pads in 6in for the g9. Do you think I should just continue getting 6in pads to save some money or go with a new pad lineup in 5in?
 
The 5" seems to be a better sweet spot for the G9, I noticed less vibration and a difference in control and maneuverability when I switched from 6" to 5"
 
The 5" seems to be a better sweet spot for the G9, I noticed less vibration and a difference in control and maneuverability when I switched from 6" to 5"

I hear you on that. I guess I can use the 6in pads for even larger surfaces so they’re not collecting dust. That way I can buy maybe a few less 5in pads.
 
I switch back to 6" for pick ups and large SUV's most cars are much easier to do with the 5"
 
My opinion... Those scratches in the door appear to be fairly significant. Maybe caused by opening the door into a bush or something like that.

My take is that you have not been aggressive enough yet to remove them. If the finish was all swirled up and now you removed the superficial swirls the remaining scratches are more visually prominent because they are no longer camouflaged by the swirls.

I'd be going after those scratches with the most aggressive compound and pad that you have available until they are removed... Assuming they are removable... Only you can make that determination.

Then once the scratches are removed, polish the entire panel using your finishing products and pads.
 
My opinion... Those scratches in the door appear to be fairly significant. Maybe caused by opening the door into a bush or something like that.

My take is that you have not been aggressive enough yet to remove them. If the finish was all swirled up and now you removed the superficial swirls the remaining scratches are more visually prominent because they are no longer camouflaged by the swirls.

I'd be going after those scratches with the most aggressive compound and pad that you have available until they are removed... Assuming they are removable... Only you can make that determination.

Then once the scratches are removed, polish the entire panel using your finishing products and pads.

I keep leaning back to this as I mentioned in post#20
There has to be an extreme difference in the tests to see what direction to head...
 
I switch back to 6" for pick ups and large SUV's most cars are much easier to do with the 5"

That make sense. Also handy to have I guess. Also would you say I need to crank up the g8 to achieve same results in smaller spots? For example, my g9 was in speed 4 with the yellow rupes. If I was on the g8 working on tighter spots, would I need to crank it up to 6?
 
My opinion... Those scratches in the door appear to be fairly significant. Maybe caused by opening the door into a bush or something like that.

My take is that you have not been aggressive enough yet to remove them. If the finish was all swirled up and now you removed the superficial swirls the remaining scratches are more visually prominent because they are no longer camouflaged by the swirls.

I'd be going after those scratches with the most aggressive compound and pad that you have available until they are removed... Assuming they are removable... Only you can make that determination.

Then once the scratches are removed, polish the entire panel using your finishing products and pads.

I thought this too. That’s why I used a MF pad + cutmax. I can’t imagine going anymore aggressive than this. While it got rid of all the scratches/marring, it did leave a foggy finish which is what I heard is normal when running a MF pad. That’s when I would follow up with a orange or yellow pad and that’s when the marring in the picture is shown.

I’m thinking maybe the side panels only like getting worked vertically? I mentioned earlier that I changed my technique to only focus only vertical passes. Not sure if I’m crazy but this gave me the best results so far.
 
That make sense. Also handy to have I guess. Also would you say I need to crank up the g8 to achieve same results in smaller spots? For example, my g9 was in speed 4 with the yellow rupes. If I was on the g8 working on tighter spots, would I need to crank it up to 6?


I run my G8 full out after cream has been spread out evenly...
 
I run my G8 full out after cream has been spread out evenly...

That make sense, I've been running it on speed 4 during my test yesterday. Ill ramp it up next time I test later.

Also I have a picture of the Coating vs my test spot with MF + cutmax followed up Orange + Medium cut polish. Very shocked on how hazy the coating looked after 5months.

Ive found that with using just a yellow pad and medium polish, will be able to take off the coating, so ill likely not be using the MF+Cutmax anymore. Again almost all major imperfections were removed when I coated the car 5 months ago, it was those minor marring I couldn't get rid of. So my goal is to do a quick 1 step polish before reapplying a new coating of CSL. This time, ill top it off with EXO as well.

 
Just did another test spot but with the g8 3in + boss yellow pad in speed 6. Once with menzerna and once with Koch chemie. This produced similar results with g9 + 6in rupes yellow on speed 4.

Performed same 2x circular motion to wipe off initial residue. Zero marring. Once I perform vertical Gyeon wipe, I can see very small vertical marring. I’m thinking the culprit is indeed the rag company pearl mf towel. Will try another wipe off test when I receive the edgeless 365. Will also wait a bit for panel is cool down before performing Gyeon wipe.

I wonder why I wasn’t getting any vertical wipe off marring right now compared to when I tested it earlier.
 
Try some windex at 50% distillied water solution and see if it still happens
 
Try some windex at 50% distillied water solution and see if it still happens

Is this to replace Gyeon prep? Will the winded + 50% be sufficient for ceramic coating after?
 
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