Headlight restoration 50/50.

93fox

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So i decided to restore this headlight i found in the trash can. someone decided to buy a new headlight and decided to throw this one out thinking it had no hope. since ive had a few new ideas on how to restore headlights i thought this would be the perfect candidate for the job. now here is the thing that is going to surprise most of you all. I did absolutely NO POLISHING on this headlight at all. Yes you read that right, NO POLISHING. i didnt whip out no compound, no pads, no buffer. All i used was Sandpaper and helmans spar urethane and mineral spirits. that is all i used.

process:
wet sand with 800 grit.
wet sand with 1000 grit.
wet sand with 1500 grit.
wet sand with 2000 grit.
wet sand with 3000 grit.
wipe the lense with mineral spirts to clean the sanding residue.
wipe the urethane at 1:1 with mineral spirits.

i wasent expecting it to look all that great since i was just testing to see how this looked but the results left me far more than amazed. ill let the pictures do the speaking now:

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My thoughts:

Personally i think this is a very good alternative of doing this. In the thread where hotrod introduced this idea he updated everyone with the headlights he did. BUT he did compound and polish out the headlights first....THEN applied the urethane mixture. If i correctly remember he updated up to two years and it still looked awesome. Now here is my take on why i think this is a whole lot better idea than polishing and then wiping the urethane mixture. Take this for an example, when a painter is going to paint your car he doesn't buff out the car first to a perfect shine AND then sprays over it right? no. he first sands the paint and then paints and clears on top of it. That same method applies here. Having sanded the headlight up to 3000 grit there were still sanding scratches. super fine microscopic left from 3000 grit. SO when i wiped the urethane mixture, its laying on top of these scratches and "biting" or "holding on". see how this is similar to the example of painting a car? Its the same when i just need to clear a hood for instance. i dont spray clear over a nice shiny buffed hood. I first sand it with 1000 grit and then spray the clear, this way the clear has something to "hold on" to. This is why i think this method is better. its just like prepping a car for paint or clear, you sand it in order for the paint or clear to grab on well. same here, i applied the urethane mixture on top of the sanded headlight so i believe it will hold on alot better. now most of you are probably thinking that if there are any scratches visible. the answer is no. i spent quite a good time on 1000grit removing all the 800 grit scratches. i spent a good amount of time on each finishing grit to achieve a perfect finish.

any thoughts and comments are more than welcome! :dblthumb2:
 
The results speak for themselves :dblthumb2: I am about to start on my 2003 Honda Accord. Not looking forward to working the area around the raised bump area esp if I have to do a lot of sanding by hand. I agree with your thoughts though. Having a roughed up area (very slight in this case) does give the material something to grab onto. As a comparison, when you assemble a golf club you have to roughen up the shaft (carbon or steel) or the epoxy wont hold and the club will fly apart.
 
The results speak for themselves :dblthumb2: I am about to start on my 2003 Honda Accord. Not looking forward to working the area around the raised bump area esp if I have to do a lot of sanding by hand. I agree with your thoughts though. Having a roughed up area (very slight in this case) does give the material something to grab onto. As a comparison, when you assemble a golf club you have to roughen up the shaft (carbon or steel) or the epoxy wont hold and the club will fly apart.

you are correct buddy! this headlights looks like if i had spent hours polishing it to look this nice. but thats not the case here!
 
:bump2:...............................:laughing:
 
wow fox they look real good! so you sanded then coated no polishing? how did they clear up from the 3000grit sand marks?
 
wow fox they look real good! so you sanded then coated no polishing? how did they clear up from the 3000grit sand marks?

Thats correct bro, no polishing at all. I just wiped the urethane mix on top of the 3000 grit scratches and that is the results you see!
 
Thats funny, lol


Nice work. After the UTB thread I wasnt sure what to think of you. Seems like you had some good ideas here. Nice work, my friend.

Im going to take your bumping crown away from you! Haha but thanks! I did this headlight to carry around to show potential customers a before and after in person. Not just in pics.
 
I'm guessing that the urethane filled the micro scratches and leveled them...making them invisible.

:iagree: No different than leaving some "tooth" for mechanical adhesion when applying regular paint/clear coat.

Which, incidentally, I still think I'd prefer a couple coats of a good automotive clear coat as opposed to the spar urethane. It's thicker, probably much more UV resistant, and thus would last even longer.

Only advantages I see with this method are that it's cheaper and doesn't need to be sprayed -- which is great for wholesale and volume jobs but not necessarily the best choice for retail work.
 
:iagree: No different than leaving some "tooth" for mechanical adhesion when applying regular paint/clear coat.

Which, incidentally, I still think I'd prefer a couple coats of a good automotive clear coat as opposed to the spar urethane. It's thicker, probably much more UV resistant, and thus would last even longer.

Only advantages I see with this method are that it's cheaper and doesn't need to be sprayed -- which is great for wholesale and volume jobs but not necessarily the best choice for retail work.

100% correct charlie. The best and only true way is spraying some actual clear. a good 3 coats should be more than perfect. ive done alot of headlights spraying clear on them. ive tinted headlights and tail lights as well since its become a trend as well. While i know that is the true and correct way of doing it. ive found this method to be good for on the spot headlight repair. i dont need cover the entire car, or remove the headlights. Alot of people are more willing to pay $35 to $40 for on the spot repair. For the results to be lasting 2 years plus i think its a very good effective way. but surely not compared to some actual clear. :xyxthumbs:
 
Oscar,

Makes total sense!!!

Thanx for the reminder on 'tooth'.

Bill
 
After reading a TON on Opti-Coat 2.0...it really is looking like a great new option to seal headlights...more expensive yes but you figure you do one set of lights and the tube is paid for...that stuff really does seem to hold up to the hype...but until i can afford it ill stick with the spar :)
 
After reading a TON on Opti-Coat 2.0...it really is looking like a great new option to seal headlights...more expensive yes but you figure you do one set of lights and the tube is paid for...that stuff really does seem to hold up to the hype...but until i can afford it ill stick with the spar :)

the spar is what i used here.... with no polishing and look at the results that i got.
 
I've been doing my headlights this way for quite a while now. It does work without compound or polish.
 
I've been doing my headlights this way for quite a while now. It does work without compound or polish.

IMO its more quicker than using compound. you also reduce the risk of burning the edge of any panels around the headlights. sometimes its also annyoing to get the pad into some headlights. Thats why i find this way to be more effective AND im 100% sure it bonds better than polishing first.
 
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