DaC
New member
- Aug 11, 2011
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Never tried it, but if you try it let us know how it comes out
Will do sometime next year... I'll take some very oxidized headlight from a friend's car and see how it comes down....
Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea
- Thread starter HotRod
- Start date
Will do sometime next year... I'll take some very oxidized headlight from a friend's car and see how it comes down....
ShineTimeDetail
New member
- Sep 26, 2010
- 2,032
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Can you use a heat gun to speed the drying time up to add another coat?
Rav777
New member
- Jun 6, 2011
- 506
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I was thinking about this awhile ago too, that might really speed up the process. I wonder what temp would be ideal as well.
DaHen
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- Sep 6, 2010
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Wouldn't wanna try it with a heat gun.
If ya really wanted to rush the drying time, perhaps a hair dryer would be more gentle.
DaC
New member
- Aug 11, 2011
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Hey Bill!
Well, I did a little research on the matter and it seems they are pretty different substances...
Urethane is less hard and more flexible than polyurethane. But it seems that polyurethane is more resistant to weather conditions.
The one & only time I had the tiny bubbles was on my initial testing of this method. And it was due to the brand of Mineral Spirits in the 50/50 mix. I was using the "Green" and non-flammable type available at Home Depot and it looks milky. I went back and got the normal Mineral Spirits (flammable) and it's the clear type.
Then all was good with no bubbles.
Also noticed you do one step backwards from my procedure.
After sanding etc and all the surface has been cleaned of sanding residue, I clean it with denatured alcohol and allow it to evaporate. Then wipe it down with Mineral Spirits and allow it to evaporate. I think it was you on page #74 that had the Mineral Spirits then Denatured Alcohol whereas I do Denatured Alcohol then Mineral Spirits. After the last cleasing wip with Mineral Spirits, nothing touches the lenses until the coating of 50/50 mix - meaning no buffing to dry it quicker etc.
Try reversing those steps and also try a different brand of regular (non-Green) Mineral Spirits.
I received my 2 sample packs of Light Rite (enough for two vehicles) on Thursday so I may be trying that method & product soon.
I use a heat gun on most restorations as it seems the vehicle owners always wants to drive once I'm done.
Plus it greatly reduces the risks of floating particles landing on the wet sealant mix.
My volvo s60 headlights are really messed up. I decided to fix them, but I am not sure which is the best way to do it. So I read this whole thread, yes all 77 pages, and I decided to do this steps:
1) Remove the headlights from the car.
2) Sand them by hand with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000. (Or should I get 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System and do it with a drill?)
3) Skip polishing step. (Should I skip it?)
4) Prime the lights with mineral spirits and let it fully dry.
5) Apply the UV sealer (1:1 mixture) with Scott Blue Shop Towel folded in 1 inch by 1 inch
6) Let it dry for 24 hours. (Should I put those headlights outside in the sun? or keep them in the shade in garage?)
7) Apply the Lamin X headlight protective film. (Will it stick to the headlight after UV sealer?)
8) Spray the film with Lamin X UV protectant and then continue doing it monthly. (Can you suggest better UV protectant?)
9) Install the headlights back.
If you find any of these steps useless, dumb... or if I missed some step, please correct me. I am sorry about asking so many questions, I am doing it for the first time.
Thank You, RoOs
1) Remove the headlights from the car.
2) Sand them by hand with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000. (Or should I get 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System and do it with a drill?)
3) Skip polishing step. (Should I skip it?)
4) Prime the lights with mineral spirits and let it fully dry.
5) Apply the UV sealer (1:1 mixture) with Scott Blue Shop Towel folded in 1 inch by 1 inch
6) Let it dry for 24 hours. (Should I put those headlights outside in the sun? or keep them in the shade in garage?)
7) Apply the Lamin X headlight protective film. (Will it stick to the headlight after UV sealer?)
8) Spray the film with Lamin X UV protectant and then continue doing it monthly. (Can you suggest better UV protectant?)
9) Install the headlights back.
If you find any of these steps useless, dumb... or if I missed some step, please correct me. I am sorry about asking so many questions, I am doing it for the first time.
Thank You, RoOs
GalKonz
New member
- Nov 1, 2011
- 45
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In my opinion:
You don't need to take the headlights out. Using masking tape, you can mask all the edge of the light. If you do a good masking work, and be careful, you won't damage sorrounding paint, etc. Remeber that some cars are difficult to take headlights out.
About sanding, you didn't mentioned if you are going to DRY sand or WET sand. I find wet sanding lots better in all grades. In wet sanding you gotta soak your papers for at least 15 minutes, that's something important too. And if you add a drop or two of dish soap helps lubricate better.
In my process, when i buff/polish headlights i only use grades 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000, wash, buff/polish, prime with MS (let dry), and spar urethane seal. Sometimes i skip polishing and i do 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, wash, prime with MS (let dry), and spar urethane seal.
Priming before spar sealant is pretty important, and should not be skipped no matter what process you are using.
Using Lamin X after Spar urethane sealer is something i haven't tried, but in my opinion i think that it isnt needed. Spar urethane sealer holds pretty good for a 1 - 1.5 years, even 2 years depending on weather. You can make them last longer if after spar urethane is dried you use somehting like a paint wax (any you like) or a paint sealant like Klasse, etc.
In my opinion, you can keep your headlights in perfect condition all your car's life just by doing spar urethane method, and applying klasse every 6 - 12 months, and it's pretty more cost effective than using Lamin X and spray every month.
By the way, spar urethane gives a pretty glossy finish by it's own, and they look even better than new
with spar
You don't need to take the headlights out. Using masking tape, you can mask all the edge of the light. If you do a good masking work, and be careful, you won't damage sorrounding paint, etc. Remeber that some cars are difficult to take headlights out.
About sanding, you didn't mentioned if you are going to DRY sand or WET sand. I find wet sanding lots better in all grades. In wet sanding you gotta soak your papers for at least 15 minutes, that's something important too. And if you add a drop or two of dish soap helps lubricate better.
In my process, when i buff/polish headlights i only use grades 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000, wash, buff/polish, prime with MS (let dry), and spar urethane seal. Sometimes i skip polishing and i do 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, wash, prime with MS (let dry), and spar urethane seal.
Priming before spar sealant is pretty important, and should not be skipped no matter what process you are using.
Using Lamin X after Spar urethane sealer is something i haven't tried, but in my opinion i think that it isnt needed. Spar urethane sealer holds pretty good for a 1 - 1.5 years, even 2 years depending on weather. You can make them last longer if after spar urethane is dried you use somehting like a paint wax (any you like) or a paint sealant like Klasse, etc.
In my opinion, you can keep your headlights in perfect condition all your car's life just by doing spar urethane method, and applying klasse every 6 - 12 months, and it's pretty more cost effective than using Lamin X and spray every month.
By the way, spar urethane gives a pretty glossy finish by it's own, and they look even better than new
with sparPart-timer
New member
- May 30, 2011
- 219
- 0
Judging by your pictures, I don't think you even need to use the 400. Start with 800 and work your way up the way you stated. I wouldn't use the Laminex either. I use the spar/Min spirits at 60/40 myself. Also, don't remove the lenses! Way too much work. Just use blue painter's tape around the edges(Double thickness) I do it all by hand except the final 3000 grit. I use a 3M trizact 3" pad......then mineral spirits, let dry and spar mixture. No worries. If it doesn't look good, wipe it off with mineral spirits and start over. Cheers!
Thank You for responding Part-timer and GalKonz.
How do I know when to change sandpaper to a different grit size? How long does it usually take? Is it possible to overheat that plastic with hand? How much pressure do u apply when sanding?
Part-timer, you said you sand 3000 with a drill. Why? Does it leave less scratches?
Thank You, RoOs
How do I know when to change sandpaper to a different grit size? How long does it usually take? Is it possible to overheat that plastic with hand? How much pressure do u apply when sanding?
Part-timer, you said you sand 3000 with a drill. Why? Does it leave less scratches?
Thank You, RoOs
Part-timer
New member
- May 30, 2011
- 219
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Its kind of hard to explain as to when you need to switch paper grits. The more you do them, you get a "feel" for how its supposed to "look". I know that isn't much help but I guess your looking for the lens to have even smooth sanding marks. I use a hose to rinse the lens and paper often, plus it gives you a better look at the lens. If you still have old coating still there....it'll look clear or shiny. You don't want that. With the more coarse grits the lens will look whitish or cloudy. The finer grits you use, the lens will become more clear (or less blurry). The time it takes depends a lot on how hard it is to remove the old coating. Most people on here estimate this whole procedure as taking 1/2 hour to an hour. It usually takes me about an hour...but I try to make them all perfect. I use a good amount of pressure and always wet sand every step by hand.(except the fore mentioned 3000 grit with a disc and drill) I finish with the 3000 because it just seems to make a huge difference in the look when its wet and after spar. Many people don't go to 3000. It's just my personal preference......and I'm sure you'll have yours too after you do a few....lol
As long as you keep wetting the lens and sandpaper, I don't think you'll have any chance of overheating the plastic. Dry sanding with a drill or other tool, you might.
The first one is always kind of scary. Practice on a junk one from a body shop or boneyard. You'll do fine.
Good luck!
Google Headlight (sp?) repair and you'll get tons of YouTube videos.
Hondaforlife954
New member
- Dec 8, 2011
- 44
- 0
What about putting 3m clear bra on them after polish or even after opti 2.0? thoughts....then after a harsh winter just remove and apply new clear bra...
Hi everyone!
I'm a long time lurker, first time poster (now that my account finally got authorized...)
I'm replacing one of my headlights soon and decided to practice the 60/40 method on the old one.
I started with 400, then 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 (all wet, hand). Then a coat of OMS and finally the 60/40 mix.
Here's the sorry-ass result:
Here's the other headlight, obviously not treated:
It was looking obviously sanded after 2000 when dried, but I thought the next treatment would fix it (guess not!
So... what am I doing wrong?
P.S. noticed that 1 layer of masking tape isn't enough, will use 2 next time -- think someone already mentioned that
I'm a long time lurker, first time poster (now that my account finally got authorized...)
I'm replacing one of my headlights soon and decided to practice the 60/40 method on the old one.
I started with 400, then 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 (all wet, hand). Then a coat of OMS and finally the 60/40 mix.
Here's the sorry-ass result:
Here's the other headlight, obviously not treated:
It was looking obviously sanded after 2000 when dried, but I thought the next treatment would fix it (guess not!
So... what am I doing wrong?
P.S. noticed that 1 layer of masking tape isn't enough, will use 2 next time -- think someone already mentioned that
I have had ONE set of headlights go bad, coming out unacceptably foggy. It was a cool day, in the fifties...but with no rain. Possibly it was too cold out, and moisture condensed while the spar urethane was still setting up? Fortunately it was one of our own cars, a 1994 Ford Taurus. I cleaned off the spar urethane with mineral spirits and resanded lightly, then coated it again...but this time I warmed up the headlights by turning them on (high beam) to keep the plastic warm. The weather had not changed for the re-do and the result was perfect.
After that experience, on every one done when it's cool, subsequent to wet-sanding and washing off the sanding residue with water and a mile soap, I turn the headlights on, then proceed with degreasing using mineral spirits, and the application of the spar urethane.
After that experience, on every one done when it's cool, subsequent to wet-sanding and washing off the sanding residue with water and a mile soap, I turn the headlights on, then proceed with degreasing using mineral spirits, and the application of the spar urethane.