Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea
- Thread starter HotRod
- Start date
RENU
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- Feb 17, 2012
- 9
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How much of the SPAR/MS mix do you make (quantity) for one set of headlights?
Does 1 oz. of total mix cover 2 headlights?
RENU
New member
- Feb 17, 2012
- 9
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NEW LOGO! for AG Profile...btw guys I do logos and flyers for headlight retoration and etc......if any of you need help with that do let me know. I will be creating a generic 3 set flyer at a resonable deal...just add your name & phone number to the bottom.
I recently changed my name from RENU Headlight Restoration to RENU Headlight Care...I think the "Care" part doesn't imply that the lens is now 100% brand new...restoration seems to imply longevity... care=more like "like-new", I explain that they "could" stay clear for over a year, but your mileage will vary.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Part-timer
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- May 30, 2011
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Honestly, for most of the headlights I do, I use a Wendy's frosty spoon......use 3 spoons of spar.....and two spoons of spirits. It's not exact but I think you just kind of get a "feel" for it after you do a number of them. Use what works for you. If one ounce works for you......do it. I use Wendy's.....lol
DaHen
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- Sep 6, 2010
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Here I am. Gots a follow up for yas.
Didn't think of taking "before" photos at the time. But here headlights on a 2001 Altima that I restorated last year on May 25. Had to darken the exposure on these photos cause the sun was behind me. (Of course, thats where the light is suppose to be, lol.)
So thats a little over nine months of being exposed to our New England weather. No wax nor any other product has been applied on top of the UV sealant. The car has only been washed five times that I know of and car soap and/or shampoo was used.
GalKonz
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- Nov 1, 2011
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WOW! They still looking pretty good. Which tecnique did you executed? Sanded/polished/spar? or Sanded/spar?
DaHen
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- Sep 6, 2010
- 1,215
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Glad you asked.
This is the procedure that I used:
Cleaned both headlites.
Used 500 grit with DA polisher.
Used 600 grit wet by hand.
Used 800 grit with DA polisher.
Used 1000 Meguiars foam disc with DA polisher.
Used 1000 grit "Automotive Sandpaper" wet by hand.
Used 1500 grit "Automotive Sandpaper" wet by hand.
Used 2000 grit "Automotive Sandpaper" wet by hand.
Used 3M's P3000 foam disc that came with 3M kit.
Used 3M rubbing compound that came with 3M kit.
Used Meguiars Ultimate Compound with DA Polisher.
Applied the MinWax/Minerial Sprits the following day.
No polish was used, just the two compounds. Don't recall why I waited to apply the UV sealant the next day.......
I think the key to my success was that I used allot of sandpaper.
Part-timer
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- May 30, 2011
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I use 1/4 sheet of sand paper between two headlight of each grit...
800
1000
1500
then 3M trizact 3000 foam disc
Then wipe with spirits and apply spar.
Several on here will argue that compound and polish is too smooth....not leaving anything for the spar to "bite into". That is why I don't compound or polish any more.
The lenses still come out looking brand new and there are several posts on here stating this lasts from 1-2 years, which I think is par for the course.
I posted on the other (spar urethane vs. opti-coat) discussion:
"...on many Chrysler vehicles, the INSIDE of the lens deteriorates, too, though normally slower than the outside. Maybe other vehicles, too. Sad part: I've got a 1995 older Dodge Intrepid where this is happening FASTER on the inside. The outside has not needed ANY treatment yet and the car is 17 years old. It's been garaged almost all its life, that's why the outside of the headlights is still so good."
It's not turning YELLOW but there is definite deterioration. Looks like a light frost. Maybe a pattern of tiny cracks?
"...on many Chrysler vehicles, the INSIDE of the lens deteriorates, too, though normally slower than the outside. Maybe other vehicles, too. Sad part: I've got a 1995 older Dodge Intrepid where this is happening FASTER on the inside. The outside has not needed ANY treatment yet and the car is 17 years old. It's been garaged almost all its life, that's why the outside of the headlights is still so good."
It's not turning YELLOW but there is definite deterioration. Looks like a light frost. Maybe a pattern of tiny cracks?
Helljumper09
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- Jul 15, 2010
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I believe the pattern of tiny cracks is called crazing. I believe it do be the plastic is deteriorating and maybe drying out? I dont really know for sure but that's my opinion.
I think you're right. A few years back Hertz rented me a Pontiac Grand Am in Philadelphia (although it had Missouri plates). Both headlights were very badly crazed. The pattern of cracks, which were not really tiny, resembled that on a back or side window that was bruised by impact; the cracks were all over the light. I went back to the Hertz office before driving the car, and told them about it. The car was taken out of service on the spot. The Hertz agent said he had seen it before, but only once.
NOTHING could have saved those headlights; but I didn't get to see if they would just fall apart into chunks of plastic if hit with a hammer!
NOTHING could have saved those headlights; but I didn't get to see if they would just fall apart into chunks of plastic if hit with a hammer!
Helljumper09
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- Jul 15, 2010
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This is crazing exactly. And no, the sanding and polishing will not fix it. I beleive the damage extends all the way thru the plastic to the other side. I havent found a way to fix it yet.
Helljumper09
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- Jul 15, 2010
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Yes, you can and did reduce the visibility of the crazing but I don't think it's possible to get rid of it all together. I could be wrong though. I had one car, a newer Monte Carlo, that some crazing showed up after I did the sand polish and sealant. I don't know what caused this as it was not there when I started.
Part-timer
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- May 30, 2011
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The customer came to me and ask for the restoration, I sand with 600,800,1000,1500,2500 then polish with Osren plastic polish paste using lc wool and orange pad. Surface is smooth but can only manage to reduce the visibility of the crazing marks.
With vehicles like that....all you can do is tell the customer that there is no guarantee. With many of them, the lights end up being about 80% better than they were....thats the best you can do. I've been getting some lately that show no visable signs of cracks and yet while sanding them, there is a fog that appears on the inside of the lens. This sucks! I've had some success by running the engine and keeping the high beam headlights on during the sanding process. (as a matter of fact I just completed a newer Nissan Altima today that did this....UGH!)
I wasn't real happy with the results....but it was definitely better than it was!
I got another customer came to me just now for headlights restoration, his headlights was restored by a painter months ago and has been sealed by clearcoat. The coating and the lights have become yellow again, I thought it should't be a problem to remove the clear but I wad wrong, at the end I have to start sanding from 400 grit and spent about 2 hours with elbow grease to removes the coat.
After polish and sealed with diamondite liquid armor, the headlights looks great. But I would like to know which product i can i use to remove the clear coat with resorting to sanding?
After polish and sealed with diamondite liquid armor, the headlights looks great. But I would like to know which product i can i use to remove the clear coat with resorting to sanding?