Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

eh? said:
Continuing along with jrs1418's question, has anyone tried the aerosol version of the spar urethane? This one
Minwax Helmsman 11.5 oz. High Gloss Spar Urethane Aerosol Spray 33250 at The Home Depot

looks to be the same version as being used. Sorry if it's been mention but this thread is 100+ pages ;)
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Thanks for the tip. I hadn't seen the aerosol version.

BTW, linking to other businesses on the forum is strictly verboten. Not that it gets my undies in a wad, just thought you should know. :)
 
mhphoto said:
Thanks for the tip. I hadn't seen the aerosol version.

BTW, linking to other businesses on the forum is strictly verboten. Not that it gets my undies in a wad, just thought you should know. :)
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Whoops didn't know, I can't edit the post though- Sorry mods!

feslope said:
I've used it and it works excellent, only downside is the masking. Surface needs to be cool and should be done inside and be prepared to clean up overspray.
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Cool thanks, I have a g35 and I plan on removing the headlight assembly to change some bulbs anyway. Are multiple coats required or is one enough?
 
eh? said:
Whoops didn't know, I can't edit the post though- Sorry mods!



Cool thanks, I have a g35 and I plan on removing the headlight assembly to change some bulbs anyway. Are multiple coats required or is one enough?
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I use 2 light coats. I really like the your ability to remove the assembly. I really think you will like the result.:dblthumb2:
 
Well, I broke down and got the stuff today. Looking forward to trying it this weekend.
 
I'm having a problem with my spar. I read about somebody using wooden popsicle sticks to stir the spar/ms mixture, so that's what I've been doing. You can buy brand new popsicle sticks from arts and crafts stores. My problem is that now when I use kool-aid to make home-made popsicles, they always taste like spar.















:haha:
 
:laughing: LOL

davidc11291 said:
I'm having a problem with my spar. I read about somebody using wooden popsicle sticks to stir the spar/ms mixture, so that's what I've been doing. You can buy brand new popsicle sticks from arts and crafts stores. My problem is that now when I use kool-aid to make home-made popsicles, they always taste like spar.















:haha:
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What a long thread. I've learned a lot and now I have a couple of questions. The thread started out using 50/50 Minwax spar & oderless mineral spirits. Then someone mentioned Olympic spar finish interior U.V. absorber, oil based clear gloss. They mentioned that it was more clear than Minwax. Wouldn't it make more sense to use the Olympic spar finish since it is clearer?

Also, it was mentioned using a heat gun to aid in the drying process. Heat guns blow some really hot air so you wouldn't want to get too close to the light and you wouldn't want to concentrate in any one area. With colder weather coming, I would think that combining the heat gun with the lights on would help with the curing?

Someone asked if lubricant used to clay a car would be a good lubricant while sanding. No one answered and I don't have the answer myself but I would think it would be perfect?

Again, very good thread. I think I've learned what I needed so now it's time to go practice on the neighbors car, but I would like to know about the spar, heat gun and lubricant.
 
skipper1 said:
What a long thread. I've learned a lot and now I have a couple of questions. The thread started out using 50/50 Minwax spar & oderless mineral spirits. Then someone mentioned Olympic spar finish interior U.V. absorber, oil based clear gloss. They mentioned that it was more clear than Minwax. Wouldn't it make more sense to use the Olympic spar finish since it is clearer?

Also, it was mentioned using a heat gun to aid in the drying process. Heat guns blow some really hot air so you wouldn't want to get too close to the light and you wouldn't want to concentrate in any one area. With colder weather coming, I would think that combining the heat gun with the lights on would help with the curing?

Someone asked if lubricant used to clay a car would be a good lubricant while sanding. No one answered and I don't have the answer myself but I would think it would be perfect?

Again, very good thread. I think I've learned what I needed so now it's time to go practice on the neighbors car, but I would like to know about the spar, heat gun and lubricant.
Click to expand...


I don't know about the Olympic spar finish, been using the Minwax for over 3 years now and am used to how to apply it and its drying characteristics. I don't see a reason to change. My lights sparkle and look fantastic with it.

With regards to the 50/50 mix......I have started using more of a 70/30 mix (unless its windy out, then 60/40) I work outside and in my experience, the weather conditions affect my choice of mix. A full on hot sunny day has a different mix than a cloudy day. A windy day calls for a different mix than a calm day. For me, just experimenting with ideas is the only way to find the correct methods for each individuals specific needs. This forum is great because you can try ideas that others suggest and formulate a system for yourself.

I hand sand everything and use No Lubricant(unless you count water). May I suggest you try the clay idea and share your results with all of us?.....lolIm the MAN

I live in Florida so don't often use a heatgun. I am lucky to have warmer temps and sunshine to dry/cure my lights naturally. Personally, I'm not crazy about using a heat gun because I have a fear that it could dry/cure the outer layer too quickly, not allowing the under layers to cure properly....but I am certainly no scientist on that matter(and I'm sure to see posts telling me that now...lol)

Anyway, thats just my two cents!:props:
 
Part-timer said:
I don't know about the Olympic spar finish, been using the Minwax for over 3 years now and am used to how to apply it and its drying characteristics. I don't see a reason to change. My lights sparkle and look fantastic with it.

With regards to the 50/50 mix......I have started using more of a 70/30 mix (unless its windy out, then 60/40) I work outside and in my experience, the weather conditions affect my choice of mix. A full on hot sunny day has a different mix than a cloudy day. A windy day calls for a different mix than a calm day. For me, just experimenting with ideas is the only way to find the correct methods for each individuals specific needs. This forum is great because you can try ideas that others suggest and formulate a system for yourself.

I hand sand everything and use No Lubricant(unless you count water). May I suggest you try the clay idea and share your results with all of us?.....lolIm the MAN

I live in Florida so don't often use a heatgun. I am lucky to have warmer temps and sunshine to dry/cure my lights naturally. Personally, I'm not crazy about using a heat gun because I have a fear that it could dry/cure the outer layer too quickly, not allowing the under layers to cure properly....but I am certainly no scientist on that matter(and I'm sure to see posts telling me that now...lol)

Anyway, thats just my two cents!:props:
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Thanks for the reply, part timer. I have seen your work and you can't argue with success. I only wanted to bring up a few things since I didn't see many responses to Olympic, lubricant and heat gun.
I live in an apartment and every time i go down to work on my car or a friends, people come out of the woodwork wanting something and lately its been headlight restoration. I've been doing it with good results, I just needed to find some kind of sealant and just have a hard time letting loose of $60 for a thimble full.
I'm getting the Minwax since it has been successful. I got the sanding disc just to speed up the process and think I'll try the clay lub, I've been using water and instead of a heat gun, try out a hair dryer. The reason I've brought up heat is it has gotten cold here.
 
I fixed a neighbors headlights this weekend. Started with 500 grit and worked up to 300 grit. No compound or polish. Topped it off with the sealant using Minwax. I was really amazed at what happens when you apply.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M27GwlBfEXA]2006 Nissan Headlight Restoration - YouTube[/video]
 
Yesterday I went looking for denatured alcohol and or propanol. Checked the usuals like HD and Lowes for the alcohol. No one new anything about this stuff. Is it under a different name? <Canada>

I noticed they don't have the Odorless Mineral Spirits at HD anymore, but I was able to get some elsewhere. Signs of things to come I guess :-(
 
Always Learning said:
Yesterday I went looking for denatured alcohol and or propanol. Checked the usuals like HD and Lowes for the alcohol. No one new anything about this stuff. Is it under a different name? <Canada>

I noticed they don't have the Odorless Mineral Spirits at HD anymore, but I was able to get some elsewhere. Signs of things to come I guess :-(
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Do you have a local 'Mom and Pop' hardware store (ie, not the big box stores), or a paint store nearby? Give them a shot.

Bill
 
They tried to sell me Methyl Hydrate at a Mom & Pop store saying that it's basically the same thing.

Definitely similar but I'm not convinced. Would Methyl Hydrate be suitable (safe) as a last step cleaner before applying the Spar mix or am I better off sticking with Mineral Spirits? I believe this to be used to clean and get rid of any remaining moisture from the lens prior to coating it.

Thanks,
 
Methyl Hydrate is the same. "Methyl Hydrate" is an old term for wood alcohol. Whereas 'denatured alcohol' is ethanol (grain based).

At least that's what 'the wife' says. Chem was/is her field of choice.

Bill
 
BillE said:
Methyl Hydrate is the same. "Methyl Hydrate" is an old term for wood alcohol. Whereas 'denatured alcohol' is ethanol (grain based).

At least that's what 'the wife' says. Chem was/is her field of choice.

Bill
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That may be true. I don't doubt it. My question is this... How much does it cost? If you are not going to use OMS, then why not just go to Target and get the 91% isopropyl alcohol? I was using this before I knew about the OMS and the 50/50 system. It works just fine. Causes no problems that I am aware of. I have used it on my own car. It also cleans the 50/50 off much quicker than OMS if you cause a run, streak, or miss a spot and have to re-coat.

That is just my experience.
The only down side compared to OMS that I can think of is that OMS stays wet longer allowing you to get a quick visual of how the final appearance will be.
 
light-bright said:
That may be true. I don't doubt it. My question is this... How much does it cost? If you are not going to use OMS, then why not just go to Target and get the 91% isopropyl alcohol? I was using this before I knew about the OMS and the 50/50 system. It works just fine. Causes no problems that I am aware of. I have used it on my own car. It also cleans the 50/50 off much quicker than OMS if you cause a run, streak, or miss a spot and have to re-coat.

That is just my experience.
The only down side compared to OMS that I can think of is that OMS stays wet longer allowing you to get a quick visual of how the final appearance will be.
Click to expand...

Denatured alcohol runs about $5-6 a quart. Yea, it is a higher cost item BUT (how to word this) a 'higher quality' product. Iso alcohol has percentage of water, the 91% would have at least 9% water. Whereas 'denatured' will be approaching 100%. As soon as you open any container of alcohol it will start attracting water from the atmosphere. So the higher percentage of alcohol in the beginning the better. It's the water we don't want.

I think our Canadian friend may not be able to purchase 'denatured alcohol' up there, hence he was offered the 'wood alcohol'.

Did this make sense? I'm still a little short on coffee this morning.

Bill
 
Also, "propanol" or "isoprop" can come in any percentage. It's basically slang for "isopropyl ethanol" and as such it can be 70%, 91%, etc. Fine for cleaning resin off PCBs and adhesive residue off glass, and similar chores, but the denatured stuff is almost always sold at 99%+ so it's ideal for this task.
 
With this method, if I were to clean my car weekly, would it start wearing off?
 
ABC415 said:
With this method, if I were to clean my car weekly, would it start wearing off?
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I'm guessing that if you wiped/cleaned your headlights with alcohol every week......it DEFINITELY WOULD remove ANY type of sealant/finish that was applied. Just use a mild soap and water to clean the lights. (Just my two cents)
 
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