Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

Attention fans of spar-

How much do you mix to do two headlights?
Do you just use a small dixi cup or something?
 
I answered my own question. You sort of have to do it to understand it I guess.
So I used about 3 oz of each which was way more than needed for a pair of headlights. Probably could get away with 1/2 oz of each.

Here's my before & after. I'm a believer. I really want to try opticoat but I'm looking for cost effective alternatives. This takes the cake.

Before:
azabe3u2.jpg


After:
2equhu9a.jpg
 
Hi ! I living at Sydney. I am doing the first post and a beginner for headlight restoration .
In the first I appreciate many thanks to who share valuable experience and information with others.
I have tried to restore headlight using a spar method my Volvo Cross country. There was no issues on the preparation as sanding and cleaning.

But when I tried spar coat using a blue shop towel , there are few problems during a coating as below.
1. There are streaks during coating from left to right over single line coating.
2. Also I need to re-dip to cover up full of headlight.

How do you handle the folded blue towel ? I did exactly same way which Hotrod explained how to cut and fold the blue towel.

Can I have your advice on these problems.
Thanks
 
Henrico said:
Hi ! I living at Sydney. I am doing the first post and a beginner for headlight restoration .
In the first I appreciate many thanks to who share valuable experience and information with others.
I have tried to restore headlight using a spar method my Volvo Cross country. There was no issues on the preparation as sanding and cleaning.

But when I tried spar coat using a blue shop towel , there are few problems during a coating as below.
1. There are streaks during coating from left to right over single line coating.
2. Also I need to re-dip to cover up full of headlight.

How do you handle the folded blue towel ? I did exactly same way which Hotrod explained how to cut and fold the blue towel.

Can I have your advice on these problems.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I'm not expert - that what worked for me
1. don't overuse the mix, push extra mix out by pressing blue folded towel against plastic cup (inside) - this will result with even coating and less strikes
when you apply - start from top with horizontal passes, overlap about 10% - that will remove strikes

2. cut towel in half and fold it horizontally only till your desired width and than fold it vertically

it's all about try and errors, you'll get it

Mike
 
kosoku said:
I answered my own question. You sort of have to do it to understand it I guess.
So I used about 3 oz of each which was way more than needed for a pair of headlights. Probably could get away with 1/2 oz of each.

Here's my before & after. I'm a believer. I really want to try opticoat but I'm looking for cost effective alternatives. This takes the cake.

Before:
azabe3u2.jpg


After:
2equhu9a.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks great. My Q to you is what was your last grade of sand paper used and did you machine polish after the last sanding?
 
Someone was testing Spar against Opti-Lens a few weeks back. Spar was not doing too good if I remember correctly.... Maybe someone remembers what trend that was?
 
Thanks Mike,

I will try again.
BTW I feel it is run-out the spar during the coat from left to right.
 
Henrico said:
Thanks Mike,

I will try again.
BTW I feel it is run-out the spar during the coat from left to right.
Click to expand...



The mistakes most beginners make is taking too much time with application and the mix. I've been using the spar method 3 years now. I live in Florida and work outside so the weather(temp., wind, humidity) all affect the mix and application. If it is windy(which I try to avoid) I have to thin the mix slightly more or else it will start to dry and streak. Normally though I use around a 70/30 to 60/40 mix of spar/mineral spirits. As I've said, application is key. I fold a scott towel in half, Cut a strip about 2 1/2" to 3" depending on the size of the lens to be coated. Fold that in half and dip the top folded half into the mixture. It takes practice knowing how much for each sized light because if you go too heavy you have runs and too light it dries too quick and streaks(which is what most people do). I apply the coating in 10-15 seconds. This is KEY!!! I actually use a fair amount, quickly go around the outside edges and then fill the middle parts liberally with coating. Then very quickly and carefully swipe horizontally from side to side....starting from top and working down(again the towel size helps speed the process). If the mix is correct you will see some initial streaks but, they will flow(thank you gravity) and blend away within a few minutes. If they don't vanish in a few minutes, wipe it all off....add a slight bit of mineral spirits and try again. You have to get a feel for your weather, the extremely quick application and your mixing. It takes a bit of practice......keep trying, you'll find the sweet spot.
 
learned the hard way. you don't have to.

yesterday while preping for detailing my car, I taped off the edges of the headlights with painters tape. When I removed it, some large spots where the coating came off. grrrr! It took me four tries to get it right when I did these headlights this spring. Now I have to redo them. very pissed.
 
Ok... from my experience this may help.
1. I dont use scott blue shop towels. I use the clean up towels. They are also blue but are perforated at half sheets
2. Here in AZ, I find a 50/50 mix to be the best but when I do have issues I immediately wipe it off with OMS
3. I have had cars with very large headlights that seem to eat up the coating and make it difficult to get a great coat. In this case (when poss) I let that firat coat dry for about 30-40minutes and the coat vertically. This seems to help with small waviness.
4. I make small batches of SPAR/OMS. I have a small bottle approx 4oz that I fill and it has a dispensor cap with a small hole. Instead of dipping my towel, I dispense the oms onto the towels edge to control how much is on there.
Lastly.... I have had the issue of someone taping a lens and pulling the coating off. I was able to repair this by starting with 800wet followed by 1500 & 3000. I no longer polish after that. Clean with the oms and the recoat.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using AG Online
 
:dblthumb2: Part timer...I appreciate your very kind and practical detail explanation for the beginner. When I reach the great result with trial and error, I will post some photos. Again, you are the champion. Thanks
Part-timer said:
The mistakes most beginners make is taking too much time with application and the mix. I've been using the spar method 3 years now. I live in Florida and work outside so the weather(temp., wind, humidity) all affect the mix and application. If it is windy(which I try to avoid) I have to thin the mix slightly more or else it will start to dry and streak. Normally though I use around a 70/30 to 60/40 mix of spar/mineral spirits. As I've said, application is key. I fold a scott towel in half, Cut a strip about 2 1/2" to 3" depending on the size of the lens to be coated. Fold that in half and dip the top folded half into the mixture. It takes practice knowing how much for each sized light because if you go too heavy you have runs and too light it dries too quick and streaks(which is what most people do). I apply the coating in 10-15 seconds. This is KEY!!! I actually use a fair amount, quickly go around the outside edges and then fill the middle parts liberally with coating. Then very quickly and carefully swipe horizontally from side to side....starting from top and working down(again the towel size helps speed the process). If the mix is correct you will see some initial streaks but, they will flow(thank you gravity) and blend away within a few minutes. If they don't vanish in a few minutes, wipe it all off....add a slight bit of mineral spirits and try again. You have to get a feel for your weather, the extremely quick application and your mixing. It takes a bit of practice......keep trying, you'll find the sweet spot.
Click to expand...
 
:dblthumb2: Rich, Many thanks to share your valuable experience with others. Your sharing should save my time. As I reply to Part Timer, I will post some photos soon. Thanks again
light-bright said:
Ok... from my experience this may help.
1. I dont use scott blue shop towels. I use the clean up towels. They are also blue but are perforated at half sheets
2. Here in AZ, I find a 50/50 mix to be the best but when I do have issues I immediately wipe it off with OMS
3. I have had cars with very large headlights that seem to eat up the coating and make it difficult to get a great coat. In this case (when poss) I let that firat coat dry for about 30-40minutes and the coat vertically. This seems to help with small waviness.
4. I make small batches of SPAR/OMS. I have a small bottle approx 4oz that I fill and it has a dispensor cap with a small hole. Instead of dipping my towel, I dispense the oms onto the towels edge to control how much is on there.
Lastly.... I have had the issue of someone taping a lens and pulling the coating off. I was able to repair this by starting with 800wet followed by 1500 & 3000. I no longer polish after that. Clean with the oms and the recoat.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using AG Online
Click to expand...
 
Hi guys!! i'm here to report how my business is doing...everything was working so far until I started to see this in one of my own cars, then my other car start to have the same problem, I had to re-sand both and apply it the spar again. It didn't last not more than 6 months. am I doing something wrong?

Process:
1. Sand paper: 800-1500-2000
2. Clean the headlight with oms (let it dry for a few mins)
2. 70/30 spar/oms
3. Scott towel in half

I have done quite a few with good results at the beginning...then this happen.. Feed back please
Thanks for the feedback, I had to put my on the side business on hold until i'm able to figure out what is happening...
 
IMO, that's about what to expect with minwax on a vehicle. Expect it to fail in 6-12 months. Anyone doing retail HLR should be using something else. Even for car dealers, I think it's a bad idea. I consider it a short term DIY fix, not a professional process. The real problem I have is not just that it only lasts a few months, but that it actually ends up looking worse than before it was "repaired". I got suckered into using it, but moved on after seeing similar results as this. Good news is that it shouldn't be hard to give it another go or try something else, because it can be removed with a pressure washer.
 
mr.fusion said:
IMO, that's about what to expect with minwax on a vehicle. Expect it to fail in 6-12 months. Anyone doing retail HLR should be using something else. Even for car dealers, I think it's a bad idea. I consider it a short term DIY fix, not a professional process. The real problem I have is not just that it only lasts a few months, but that it actually ends up looking worse than before it was "repaired". I got suckered into using it, but moved on after seeing similar results as this. Good news is that it shouldn't be hard to give it another go or try something else, because it can be removed with a pressure washer.
Click to expand...

With all due respect. I absolutely do not see this issue. I offer a 1 year warranty and have been doing my service for nearly 2 1/2 years with only one car that I have done in warranty. To be fair, even that car was done due to the dealerahip having body work done after my service that required the headlight to be taped before a full cure time was allowed. I merely did this as a good faith service.

My own personal car was done in the first week of Sept in 2011 and it looks just fine. I do not ask anyone to baby their car and I do not baby mine either. This is probably the worst forum I could admit this on, but... I actually wash my car weekly, or as close to that as possible, in a gas station automated car wash. This is NOT a touchless wash either. With that going on for over 2 years my headlights look clean and clear.

It can be easily removed if wanted. Now I have repaired failed repairs from other people using various methods. I can say that the worst looking failures with the most difficult repair was when people did the clear paint. It lifts and does not adhere to plastic. In some areas it will hold but is easier to remobe using plastic razors or a credit card than it is to sand off.



Sent from my SCH-I535 using AG Online
 
I agree with mr.fusion. Spar is a decent inexpensive DIY fix but it most definitely doesn't last. Opti-coat and Optilens are much better options. I'm sold on O-lens 1000000000%
 
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