Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

jeff79 said:
Only problem with that is id have to carry around and be constantly refilling an air compressor. Do you think the air tools are worth the cost/hassle for the job or is there another/better option besides using a hand drill or air tools?
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You will need an awful large air tank to run air tools.
 
Probably a dumb question, but I've never restored headlights nor have I used urethane, but I'm just wondering why is it necessary to mix the urethane with the mineral spirits? To thin it out?
 
mcpp66 said:
Probably a dumb question, but I've never restored headlights nor have I used urethane, but I'm just wondering why is it necessary to mix the urethane with the mineral spirits? To thin it out?
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Remember no question is a dumb question.

I am still learning myself but from my understanding the the mineral spirits does help "thin it out" while applying to the headlights without streaking. When it is very hot out, or windy you may need to increase the ratio of mineral spirits in your mix. You can get away with increasing the Spar ratio if you are in a controlled environment or it is cooler outside.

I can't say from experience, just what I have read here (assuming I have a good understanding)

I know this is a very long thread, but if you make the time to read 5-10+ pages per day you will knock it out in no time.
Reading all of the pages has given me a good idea of what will, and what won't work.
 
jeff79 said:
ok so ive received 2 complaints of about 40-45 regarding the longevity of the gclear. One guy whose lights i did looked real bad after only 3.5 months like the gclear really started to streak up after a few months. They arent starting to yellow but you can tell the gclear is either peeling or streaking or something and i feel obligated to fix this since i have been giving out 1 year warranties with the gclear. Im guessing there are more then 2 people whose lights need to be redone but only 2 have complained. does anyone know anything about jetseal109? i heard it will last a long time on headlights.

Here is a pic of the lights

TuWmgnu.png
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This was the post I was referring to about streaking, where the lights came out great, but a few months later the streaking appeared.
Jeff did you chalk that up to not applying a thick enough coating, or not curing with the actual UV light?
Are you still using Glasweld Gclear with the UV light these days or have you moved on to another product/method?

I was wondering if someone brought their car to a car wash (or did it themselves) that used a chemical to clean the lights could that be the cause of streaks months later? I want to give warranty, but if that is the case how would you be able to tell the difference between your work failing, and someone "dissolving" it?

SameGuy said:
That looks like what I've experienced on one single lens, I've attributed it to contamination from my IPA wipe and some residual slurry that may have flowed out of a seal. That lens didn't want to cure as quickly as it should've, and looked about 95%. As this was right before winter I told my friend I'd do it again in the spring, sanding down to the PC again. Not looking forward to it, but I knew it would be a problem as soon as I finished.
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usmcpab said:
I've used the glass weld before and as far as streaking goes, that's more or less on how much product you're using as well as the pressure applied on the applicator to lens itself. I did like the fact that after sanding down with 2000 grit that you just apply the gw, allow it to flash, then cure it with the UV light. There's just a bit of a learning curve to reduce the streaks. Also make sure it's applied in a dust free environment. My only other gripe with this product is that it sometimes can leave a bit of a tacky finish instead of a smooth finish you get sand/polish/sealant combo.
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I included this more recent post just to get your opinion as well USMCPAB on my question/theory.
 
headlightnewbie;1290183 I included this more recent post just to get your opinion as well USMCPAB on my question/theory.[/QUOTE said:
Oh wow I've never seen anything like that before. I've used gclear on numerous vehicles and I've yet to see any type of degradation on some of my maintenance customers. I have repeat customers who've had theirs for over a year and still going strong. But there's always those special cases where you do everything correctly and somehow it just doesn't work. This might be on of those cases. However, what does come to mind is a couple of things, not allowed to cure long enough in a UV curing light, gclear was applied too thin, not sanded down well enough, or not a proper ipa wipe down before the gclear application, or the environment when it was applied, like humidity or moisture in the air due to temperature or rainfall.
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Thanks for that insight usmcpab. I think that's probably the case. I'm one of those perfectionists though, so it irks me not to know EVERYTHING! :hungry:
 
Yeah, the problem is nailing down which of those variables has caused the undesirable results. :)
 
Has anyone ever tried using meguiars plast x with just a hand held buffing pad buff it off with a microfiber towel and then use the Spar Urethane. I'm wondering if I tried that how it would come out. I used the Spar method on my wife 2006 Nissan Altima and it came out better but it was still a little foggy. And I'm just wondering if that might help clear some of that fog up.
 
SameGuy said:
Yeah, the problem is nailing down which of those variables has caused the undesirable results. :)
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I know everyone has their own preferences but what are your thoughts on highest level of sanding?

2000 , wipe, apply gclear
2500, wipe, apply gclear
3000, wipe, apply gclear

I didn't include buffing/polishing to leave a bit of "tooth".

If I were using Spar I would go up to 3000
 
tdwheeler18 said:
Has anyone ever tried using meguiars plast x with just a hand held buffing pad buff it off with a microfiber towel and then use the Spar Urethane. I'm wondering if I tried that how it would come out. I used the Spar method on my wife 2006 Nissan Altima and it came out better but it was still a little foggy. And I'm just wondering if that might help clear some of that fog up.
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What prep did you do? Was it foggy before you applied the Spar?

Generally speaking I would say that PlastX by hand is going to be a waste of time on a degraded headlight.
 
I used 600,800,1000,1500,2000,300 grit sandpaper. I used mineral spirits to clean the residue off let it dry. And can back with the Spar mix. It was everything yellowed, jazzy, and foggy prior to me doing it. I'm trying to see if there is some sort of polish out there I can apply before using the Spar mix to give it a better shine.
 
As was noted a few posts ago, you need to leave some "tooth" for the Spar. Are you sure you spent enough time at the higher grits to remove the scratches from the lower grits? The problem is you may leave some 600 grit scratches that if you don't get them out with the 1000 (BTW, 600 and 800 are too close, you don't need to use both of them, use one or the other), they will stay there and won't come out unless you spend forever with the 1500. A trick (I think from Mike Phillips) for sanding is to alternate directions when you change grit, it makes it easier to see when you've removed the scratches from the previous step--easier said than done on something shaped like a headlight.

The other thing of course is simply did you remove enough material to correct the headlight, and whether it is actually too far gone to be correctable, or in some cases there may be some condensation/residue on the INSIDE which of course you won't be able to "clear up" by working on the outside.
 
Ok sweet I'll do that. I wasn't changing directions. I think that will let me know why it's still foggy thanks.
 
GlassWeld instructions say 2000 is fine, but I've found better results continuing from 2000 to 3000. It adds to the costs, but I like the results.
 
SameGuy said:
GlassWeld instructions say 2000 is fine, but I've found better results continuing from 2000 to 3000. It adds to the costs, but I like the results.
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Thank you.

Do you prefer IPA vs MS for the wiping prior to coating? I know IPA is a water magnet and evaporates quicker. Which one is better to remove the GlassWeld if you make a mistake?
 
IPA for both. I use straight up IPA from the dollar store (70, 90 or 99%, whatever I have on hand). I suppose you could dilute it as low as 15-20% with deionized water but that doesn't make it much cheaper.
 
Gents, I know we have all tried several methods to get a KEEP our headlights looking clean and clear .....always tried to fight doing that first sand/polish because I knew that subsequent polishing would be needed to keep my headlights looking new, but my 335i headlights were starting to look a lil tired so I decided to experiment just as many of you have but decided to try something I had not seen in the dozens of pages in this thread....the somewhat controversial product Wipe New...but I decided to get my headlights clean and crispy clear before using it so dry/wet sand, followed by FG400 and finishing polish...Wipe New seems to fill in the defects on bad headlights, was hoping it would dry clean and clear and just be a layer of protection on restored headlights ....below are before and after pics....been over a month and headlights still look great....I will update the thread pics in another month or so for those interested....I figured for $9...it was worth a shot....







 
"Supposedly this UV sealer is the same as some professional headlight restoration companies are selling, but with a bigger price tag.(have no proof, just was told by others trying this method who have spent big bucks on pro kits.)"-

I bought the 4Everclear UV headlight coating before I heard of this. When I put it on a towel and smelled it, it smelled just like a urethane clear I used on a walking staff I carved. I'll bet it is the exact thing you described here.
 
Well that took a week to read through, from page one. Where did HotRod go?

I did my second set of headlights today. The time it took me was way too long, but I think part of that was I was using the wrong MS. Bought the Green ECO stuff from home depot and it made it difficult to get streak free wipes or bubble free wipes. The car owner was happy with the results either way, but I think it would be easier not to use that stuff. Anywho, thanks for the thread folks! Been a good read.
 
headlightnewbie said:
This was the post I was referring to about streaking, where the lights came out great, but a few months later the streaking appeared.
Jeff did you chalk that up to not applying a thick enough coating, or not curing with the actual UV light?
Are you still using Glasweld Gclear with the UV light these days or have you moved on to another product/method?

I was wondering if someone brought their car to a car wash (or did it themselves) that used a chemical to clean the lights could that be the cause of streaks months later? I want to give warranty, but if that is the case how would you be able to tell the difference between your work failing, and someone "dissolving" it?




I included this more recent post just to get your opinion as well USMCPAB on my question/theory.
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I honestly don't know. It was in the middle of summer and I remember it being really hot that day(upwards of 100°) so Im sure it cured really quick. always do a proper ipa wipdown with a clean towel before applying the gclear so i doubt its that. Also it didn't happen till around 2 months later so I doubt it was anything that I did. I've done a bunch of lights since then and haven't really had any other problems like that so Im gonna anaylze it too much. There is alot that could have caused the streaks but its rare
 
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